LOOKIN FOR A GOOD SET UP FOR A FAIRLY STOCK SHOVEL-PAN. CAM,CARB,OILING KIT... ALSO WHILE LOOKING FOR VALVES I COULDN'T SEEM TO MATCH UP THE OEM'S TO A NEW SET OF VALVES. IE: DENNIS KIRK'S OEM #'S DONT MATCH MY VALVES. LAST DIGITS ON MY VALVES ARE-80. INTAKE AND EXAUST ARE DIFFERENT SIZES. BELIEVE THE TOP END TO BE EARLY 70'S SHOVEL. ANY HELP WOULD BE GOOD. OHH DO I REALLY NEED A SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE THE CAM BEARING. THANKS FELLA'S

Welcome to the HDForum 68 FL,
Manley will have the valves for your shovel and don't forget to replace the guides and valve springs while your at it. {the date castings should be on the spark plug side of the heads}.
Check the rocker arms for wear and side clearance.
I've had real good luck with this combination but their are may ways to go depending on how deep your pockets are and what you want when you are finished.

S&S "E" carburetor with the 1/4 inch fiber spacer.
Pingel high flow petcock with the -6an hose and fittings {this looks so nice when done correctly}
Andrews "A" grind or the "AB" grind {which I was interested in trying until I went with the stroker}
Keith Black pistons
S&S makes a nice oil pump {I'm still running my stock 68 plump and works fine}
I would also highly recommend converting to single fire electronic ignition {I am very pleased with the Mallory system I installed on my shovel.}

what exhaust pipes are you considering?
got any pictures to post for us.
A good machine shop would be able to press the cam bearing out for you. When my machinist works on my cases he first heats them in his high temp parts washer then dose the pressing. This really helps by getting the aluminum to expand and turn loose of what ever your trying to remove.
He understands we are working with 30 plus year old materials that are priceless to the owner.

__________________
1968 FLH owned for 30 years
2002 FXSTDI
2001 FXDWG oh boy!

Hey thanks for the info. Pics will be up as soon as I remember to take a camera to the shop! I was looking at a mallory ignition this morning. My pops is old school and told me to leaveit alone IE: if it aint broke, don't fix it. I say Upgrade to avoid gapping points every 3000 miles! I was worried about the advance but I see that the mallorys work well with the older shovels. Thanks for the tips. My initial prob. with the motor was that it constantly filed plugs. I knew the motor hadn't been overhauled in quite some time. Valves have origanal H-D stamp. I also hated the mikuni 42 carb. Mikuni's on sleds and jap bikes are great but my girl hated it. I couldnt seem to get a happy mediun with it. i'm always open to any more tips too! thanx

Yo 68.....Welcome to the most informative site on the internet.Rodney's a great guy and he's really up on shovelheads!! I have a 66 slabside Shubbel with a "sputhe kidney cone"....ever hear of one?I do all my own work and I put a 93" sidewinder kit in the motor about 8 years ago.She's got crane roller rockers,S&S heads that are dual plugged and a crane dual fire ignition along with a S&S shorty E carb....worlds best in my opinion....I also have a "B" GRIND in 'er....probobly the best shubbel cam ever made!!
Lots of luck and success on your build,Rodney can help steer ya straight on it...maybe I can offer a tip or 2.........Regards,ED.

Thanx Philly. I reside in the "burgh"! Bike is solid just needs a little TER (Top End Rebuild). I'm sold on the super E carb. Also like crane. Had a fireball in the '76 FXE and had a noticable change.