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DIY Cheap Mods - 5/5/2008 10:52:20 AM   
Citoriplus



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Alright gentleman, and any ladies who would like to participate.
It came to my attention some time ago that the Dyna and Touring guys have started treads on cheap mods.
Now we all know that Softail riders are just as innovative (read cheap) as those guys are. So I think it’s about time we had one of our own, and this is going to be it.
 
The rules will be no catalog or store bought items, at least nothing you get from a bike catalog or shop.
Home Depot, Lowes, a local hardware store, or the local 7-11 is another story.


What we want are the do it yourself stuff. I encourage you to post pictures and details on what you did, any tools needed, how you did it, and any challenges you found.

Remember the cheaper the better.

Would also like to see comments from the general population, such as;
Requests for more information
Ideas for improving a design
Ideas for a potential project


I’ll be editing this with an index and links to the various mods as time goes on.
 
I’ll start with some that I have come up with for starters, but I don’t wanna be alone here guys. I know there have to be a bunch of ingenious projects you guys have come up with for your bike.

Here are links to the Dyna and Touring threads, they have a bunch of good ideas that can be used on your bike too.

Dyna Thread

http://www.hdforums.com/m_2546488/tm.htm

Touring Thread

http://www.hdforums.com/m_2526925/tm.htm

Hardware upgrade  Citoriplus
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3318629

Muffler sound upgrade  Citoriplus
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3318650

Wire Soldering Helper   Citoriplus
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3318797

Wire Harness Cleanup   Citoriplus
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3318859

Painting front sliders and spokes     Asphalt Cowboy
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3319073

< Message edited by Citoriplus -- 5/24/2008 10:02:11 PM >


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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 10:58:20 AM   
Citoriplus



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I found a nice and reasonably cheap way to get rid of some of the crappy cad plated junk hardware the factory puts our bikes together with. I did this one on the fender struts on my bike.
But I'm sure that you guys can find other places on your bikes to use it or a variation of it on.

Use some SS treaded rod, I used SS carrage bolts and cut the threaded section to lengths needed. Jam acorn nuts on the ends with some JB Weld so they don't come apart. I would have used a stainless steel pin through the nut and rod but couldn't find any, and the JB seems to do the job just fine.

Stock Torx bolts in strut.


The parts you need.



And the finished product.



I think they look a lot better, you can remove them a lot easier than the soft Torx headed bolts and I don't have to worry about them rusting.



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FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 11:03:15 AM   
Citoriplus



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Here's a very easy and cheap way to get a much more "Harley" like sound a bike should have had from the factory.
There is no need to have the Delphi FI system remapped if you leave the intake alone. I spent under $5 for the parts I used to do it right.

Here's the tools I used to take it 'out';



I didn't have a hole saw that would fit all the way down to the plate so I used a hammer and screwdriver, unfortunatly it leaves a bunch of ragged edges. So I came up with these parts, under $5 at the local Lowes plus a 21mm socket to clean things up.
1 piece of 1/2" X 3' long threaded rod, three nuts to fit and four washers.



Put two nuts, the socket, and a lock washer together like this at one end.



 
As the socket is certain to get jammed in there when you hammer it through, don't let it go in too far. It only has to go in about 1/2 to 3/4" to work. If you go in too far you might have trouble getting it out without removing the muffler from the bike.

Anyway you can use the rest of the washers and the last nut to prevent it from going in too far, and as a bonus it can be used to "jack" the piece back out. Cause you will almost certainly not be able to pull it out by hand.

 

Don't expect it to sould like its got a set of Rush slip on's w/2" baffles, or a set of Big Radius pipes. But if you like the stock looks but not the sound or your just short funds for new pipes its a cheap way to improve what you got.

< Message edited by Citoriplus -- 5/5/2008 11:19:56 AM >


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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 11:06:45 AM   
BigJohn Fatboy


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Citoriplus

Great idea.  Of those that have the older bikes know, you can somewhat rebuild the whole bike, at least an old shovelhead, going through the fastener section at Lowe's or Home Depot.  Electrical tape, zip ties, JB Weld, Fuses, extra wire, spark plugs, a quart of oil for those longer trips, and the required tools...........

I'll do my best to come up with some goodies.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 11:40:48 AM   
Citoriplus



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Here's a cheap way to help get good solder connections when you need to lengthen, shorten, or add lines in the bikes electrical system.

The biggest problem with soldering wires on a bike is you need to be an octopus. You need a couple of extra hands to hold the wires while you use solder with one hand and the iron in the other. So I came up with a simple and cheap way to make a couple of different wire holders.



I think I spent a grand total of less than a buck for both of them, and that's because I wanted to get a new pair of alligator clips. The wood one was made from a pair of cloths pins glued to a couple of pieces of a paint mixing stick I got from Home Depot for free. The clips I swiped off the wife. This one is good for any wires that you can lay on a table, or you can glue a magnet to the back and stick it to any steel surface.

The other one with the alligator clips I made made from the clips and a one foot long piece of scrap 12ga solid copper wire. Its great for using where you can use a clamp or vise grips on the wire between the clips and bend the ends to wherever you need them. Just be careful of using metal clips like these. A hot iron on the wores will have the teeth melting through the wire insulation. So you might consider filing the teeth down a little and covering them with some tape or shrink tubing.

Soldering wires isn't rocket science, but it does take a little practice to do well all the time. But here's a tip for making solder connections that are nearly bullet proof. Once you get the wires soldered properly, like this.




Get some of the wives nail polish or some of this liguid tape and paint the exposed wire and solder connection.



When you ‘paint’ the connection pay particular attention to the ends of the insulation and make sure its well coated. This will prevent any moisture from migrating up the wire strands and corroding them. It won't bother anything today, but a couple of years down the road it will drive you nuts trying to find the electrical gremlins.

Once its dry use a good grade of heat shrink tubing to seal and protect the connection.
Done right the connection will be only slightly larger than the original wire size and last a lifetime.


This is what it looks like before I heated the shrink tubing.


And after.



And here's one where I spliced one wire to an existing line.



Ride safe.


_____________________________

07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 11:51:28 AM   
Citoriplus



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Its not much of a big time mod, but it is under $50 and it does make the wires in the tripple tree area look a bit better.
I'm in the process of changing the bars on my bike and didn't like the cheap a$$ed plastic covering the factory put on my wires. But when I was in a dealer I noticed that the Wideglide has a plastic mesh covering that looks a lot better with the new Diamondback lines and cables I'm putting on.
So I did a little digging and found the part number 70017-06 (Conduit, Black Mesh) and ordered a couple of pieces from Zenotti's to replace the ones on my bike.
Here's a couple of pics of the old plastic on the right, and the new mesh on the left.
Please no cracks about how dirty the bike is, its in that "winter mod" state.
I have since I did this found a better place to get the mesh from, its cheaper and avalable in different sizes to boot.
Frys.com sells it in four different sizes. I ordered and all four of them cost about $35 delivered.
2281378   1/8" X 20'
2281388   1/4" X 16'
2281398   1/2" X 10'
2281408   3/4" X 8'
Each piece is only $6.99 and all together there's enough to do at least 2 complete bike's.



Here's a closer look at it.



BTW there is an unexpected benifit to using the mesh on internal wires. It was very easy to slip the wires through the bars with this covering on them. My bars don't have any major bends in them, but the old covering was so stiff and bent up it was a sure bet that they were going to be Royal Pain in The A$$ to get through.

This is the plug that is used on my Softail for the turn signals.
You'll notice that the pinouts are mirror images and I suggest that you only take the pins out of one side at a time. That will eliminate the possibility of it getting missplaced or lost on you and you'll have a ready guide to putting the pins back in properly. Just remember its exactly oppisite and you won't have a problem.



For the turn signals I used the 1/8" stuff so it would fit snugly over the original covering. First thing is to put a piece of tape over the pin plugs. It will make it easier to slip the mesh over them. Once you have enough on so that its about 4" to 6" from the signal cut the mesh about 1" below the pins.
That should be more than enough to cover it and with it not completely on yet it will let you slide two short pieces of shrink tubing on much easier.



Once its all the way up it will look like this.



Because the mesh has a fairly low melting point you should put a short piece of electrical tape, enough for a little over one wrap around the end first. Then slide one piece of the shrink tube up and shrink it over the end. The shrink tube will keep the mesh from fraying or unraveling and give it a more 'finished' look.



Then do the same to the other end. You don't need the elecrical tape here because its going to be hidden under the tank. But its up to you.



Here's what the cable looks like before on the left, and the after on the right.



Now for my next trick, the headlight cable.

Good luck and ride safe
Frank

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FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 12:41:18 PM   
Asphalt Cowboy


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This thread is a GREAT idea! Here is my 1st contribution:

W/2 kids and a Wife to feed, well... ok, I'm cheap. I wanted to PC the lowers on my Train, but I didn't want to take apart the front end and pay $80 or so to get it done. I also didn't like the stock spoke wheel up front and don't have $1,500 or so for a new one (Did I mention that I'm cheap?), so I killed two birds with one stone.

Materials:
2 cans of Rustoleum in gloss black
1 can of clear coat
1 roll masking tape
1 old sheet, moving blanket, or whatever your wife won't kick your a$$ over for painting black!
* a six pack of your favorite brew*

I removed the front wheel and brake, covered the front end with the sheet, and taped off the lower sliders. Then, I removed the rotor from the front wheel and went to taping the wheel off. This is by far the most tedious task I have tackled in a while. Take your time and do it right, and the finished product looks like it was disassebled and PC'd.

Back to the point. Start spraying. Lots of THIN coats w/ a minute or so in between. Go heavy on the clear for the sliders. This will help protect the finish from chips. Let it all dry and re-assemble. Oh, and I used Rustoleum because it is made to protect metal when it's outside.... My not need to but it made me feel like I tried. And if it chips from a rock or big a$$ Florida bug, simply touch up with black nail polish.

All in, you get a totaly different look for less than $10 (minus the beer) and a couple hours on Sat.


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 1:14:15 PM   
Citoriplus



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Asphalt Cowboy

Great idea, one question, what kind of prep work did you do to the sliders and spokes?
Did you sand them or just wash them with a cleaner or something to get the paint to stick better?

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 1:47:31 PM   
Asphalt Cowboy


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I just cleaned them REALLY well. The rustoleum paint is made to use on metal, and seems to "stick" better than regular rattle can stuff. Plus, with the lowers and spokes being polished, they are nowhere near as smooth as chrome. I've put on 1,500 miles or so since, and no chips.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/5/2008 1:52:03 PM   
Citoriplus



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Good deal, and thanks for your contribution. Gotta show those Dyna and Bagger guys that their not the only ones who can do good things on the cheap.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/7/2008 4:14:44 AM   
Vikingnomad



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Great post Frank
I especially like the cloth pin idea for holding wires still while soldering

Thanks


Bone

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/11/2008 8:00:55 PM   
jb55

 

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  Okay, here's one that I did after looking at the back of my 07 custom. In Pa. we have the small style license plates. I guess the tail light  assemblies are made to hold both the small and large plates. So I removed my plate and scraped off the gay reflector that goes between the tail light and plate. I moved the license plate up closer to the tail light. I made an outline of the plate, and took an airsaw  and cut the extra off. It looks like it came from the factory, and reallty cleans up the back of the bike. 

And best of all total cost.... 0 dollars !!

I will try to post a pisture later if I can.

JB. 

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/12/2008 5:33:50 AM   
scaryonly


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good point. what about on sheet metal? would you recommend rustoleum for fenders?

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/12/2008 6:37:52 AM   
Asphalt Cowboy


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scaryonly - I'm sure it would work. I have painted whole bikes with rattle cans before. If you are going with a flat color, you're golden. However, gloss NEVER comes out of a rattle can like it does a spray gun, and you will never get a mirror gloss finish. The paint just isn't mixed the same. Hope that helps.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/14/2008 5:55:22 PM   
blackness


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quote:

ORIGINAL: jb55

I removed my plate and scraped off the gay reflector that goes between the tail light and plate. I moved the license plate up closer to the tail light. I made an outline of the plate, and took an airsaw  and cut the extra off. It looks like it came from the factory, and reallty cleans up the back of the bike. 

And best of all total cost.... 0 dollars !!



I did the same thing to mine. It really looks A LOT better that way. It kinda looks like the plate mount on the tri-bar tail light. Here is a crappy pic of mine...


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/14/2008 6:38:47 PM   
Citoriplus



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Blackness,
Nice job on the plate mounting.
Are those LED's in your turn signals and if so what kind, brand/model are they and how do you like them?

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/15/2008 4:23:07 AM   
blackness


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

Blackness,
Nice job on the plate mounting.
Are those LED's in your turn signals and if so what kind, brand/model are they and how do you like them?


Yes those are LEDs, the cheap ones from AutoZone. Everyone I rode with said they were very hard to see unless you were staring right at them. I have since changed back to the standard 1156 amber bulb, they give much better visibility.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/15/2008 5:02:54 AM   
Citoriplus



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quote:

ORIGINAL: blackness
Yes those are LEDs, the cheap ones from AutoZone. Everyone I rode with said they were very hard to see unless you were staring right at them. I have since changed back to the standard 1156 amber bulb, they give much better visibility.

Been there done that one too. But I also noticed that you like the clear lenses, me too.
I found a nice alternative to the crappy LED's that's also brighter than the stock amber bulb. Sylvania Silverstars, they have a sligtly bluish tint when the bulb is off but light up very bright amber when on.

Here's what they look like off, please excuse the different turn signal locations. I origianlly took the pic to show how the different relocation systems looked.



Its actually kind of hard to get a decent pic of them as the camera flash or bright sunlight makes them show up slightly amber tinted to the camera. But they look more blueish to the naked eye.
You can find them on the light bulb racks in clear packaging at the local Auto Zone so you can see what they look like before you buy them.

Ride safe

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/16/2008 2:58:30 PM   
blackness


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Here is a better pic I took today of the license plate mount cut down. I just used a cutoff wheel on a die grinder but you could use a hacksaw and sand the fuzz off the edges after you cut it. This mod is really easy and really looks A LOT better.


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/17/2008 6:20:48 AM   
jb55

 

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 Blackness, that's pretty much how mine looks. It really cleans up the back of the bike. Nice job.

JB.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/22/2008 11:13:46 AM   
R_Niner


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Cool! So you're basically punching a big 'ole hole in the baffle? Have you noticed any backfire or anything since doing the mod? I wonder what this does to the warranty? Should I do this while engine is running? HA! So how can you describe the new sound? Just louder? Or sweeter? or Nastier? I know it's subjective...

Great thread btw!

Thanks,

Rick

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/22/2008 10:26:38 PM   
Citoriplus



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R_Niner,
I'm assuming that your asking me about punching out the baffle plate.
Anyway to me it sounded about the same until you jumped on it. Then it got very authoritative without the high pitched bark that frag pipes have.
If I were to do it again I would cut the weld that holds the baffle tube in. Pull it out and enlarge all the holes adding a couple of new rows wherever I could, then reweld it back in. That way if anyone wanted to see if it had been 'tampered' with they would have to cut the baffle out to prove it.

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FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/23/2008 11:10:31 AM   
UT Harley Rider


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Great idea, I think I will do this to mine this weekend  it is supposed to raind all day Saturday, so what a better day to do a mod.  Thanks for the great idea.

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Dark Blue Pearl
Tallboy seat
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I am sure more to come..............

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/28/2008 1:21:30 PM   
Harley03joe


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My 2 Cents.
This Is What I Did For A Lighter/Cell Phone Hook up
For My 03 Heritage, I Just Plug It Into My Batt Tender Plug
Real Cheap Fix, I Keep It In My windshield  Bag.
 ??????????? YES OR NO ???????????????
 


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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/28/2008 1:29:54 PM   
Citoriplus



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No its a good idea, and worth at least a nickle, maybe even a dime. J/K its good I like it.
I was thinking of going the opposite way. Hard mount the lighter socket under the seat somehow and rewire the end of the tender with an adapter plug. Then when I wanted to put it on the tender I would just have to plug the adapter into the waiting lighter socket.
I just need to find a nice waterproof (boat store maybe) socket assembly I can use for it and a good place to mount it.

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FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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RE: DIY Cheap mods - 5/28/2008 1:38:57 PM   
Harley03joe


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

No its a good idea, and worth at least a nickle, maybe even a dime. J/K its good I like it.
I was thinking of going the opposite way. Hard mount the lighter socket under the seat somehow and rewire the end of the tender with an adapter plug. Then when I wanted to put it on the tender I would just have to plug the adapter into the waiting lighter socket.
I just need to find a nice waterproof (boat store maybe) socket assembly I can use for it and a good place to mount it.


Well For Me It's Just For Incase I need It, I Look At Is As The Same As Money
I Have It If I Need It, If Not I Still Have It Ha Ha Ha
So Im All Set Now.
 
P. S. Need A Light

Want To See Neat Look This Over For Changing primary oil
And Not Taking Off the Derby Cover To Refill It Back Up
Corbin EZ-Fill Inspection Covers
I Got One On My Bike
 
http://www.corbin.com/accessories/ezpour.shtml
 


It's one of those things that is so simple it makes you want to scream... "Why hasn't this been done before?" With the Corbin EZ-Fill adding oil to your primary is simple, just remove the knurled plug from the inspection cover and pour. It looks great and works just as well (a hallmark of Corbin design).
Forged aluminum and triple plate chromed for a perfect fit and finish. Rubber o-ring creates a positive seal and secure fit of the chromed plug. Two models are available for a variety of Harley-Davidson models.




#HD-ST-EZ-FILL
Fits: 1970 - 2006  
FX, FL Shovelheads
FLST Softails
FXDWG Dyna Wide-Glide
Softail Deuce

#HD-FLH-EZ-FILL      
Fits: 1985 - 2006  
FXR Models
Roadking
Road-Glide
FLH / FLT models





Special Notes and InfoEZ-Fill primary inspection covers do not fit on Harley models with mid-controls like the standard Dyna-Glides. There is no hole for the shifter shaft.
On some models, it may be required to slightly bend the side-stand helper for clearance (that's the thing you hook your boot on to get the stand to swing out).
EZ-Fill primary inspection covers do not fit the 2007 models.
EZ-Fill primary inspection covers do not fit any after market shifters that are longer than stock shifters.





 
ITEM
DESCRIPTION
PRICE



#HD-ST-EZ-FILL
EZ-Fill Cover, Shovelhead, Softails, Deuce & Dyna Wide-Glide
$99.00


#HD-FLH-EZ-FILL
EZ-Fill Cover, FLH/FLT, Roadking, Roadglide & FXR
$99.00

< Message edited by Harley03joe -- 5/28/2008 1:45:04 PM >


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Harley03joe In Sunny South Florida :):)
Ride All Year :):)
Keep The Rubber On The Road
Ride Safe,, And Enjoy It

2003 100th Softail Heritage Classic Silver/Black

(in reply to Citoriplus)
Post #: 26
RE: DIY Cheap Mods - 5/31/2008 5:51:44 AM   
junkorgem

 

Posts: 54
Joined: 5/30/2008
Status: offline
Hello, I might have something for you guys. I polished my rear brake rotor for about $20, and it looks awesome! Heres what you need:

1)  1000 grit wet or dry, 3M Imperial, and a rubber sanding block
2)  a can of WD-40 or something like it
3)  a sewn buff wheel 6" or so
4)  white buffing compound
5)  something to rake the wheel with, a screwdriver would work (a kitchen fork is
     better,but don't let your old lady find out)
6)  a bench mounted buffer, or a grinder if you don't have a buffer (3500-5000 RPMs)
Next time you have your wheel off remove your rotor. You have to start by wet sanding the rotor with WD-40 instead of water. I know it sound odd but the oil makes the paper last quite a bit longer. You have to sand it until most of the machine marks are gone. Plan on spending some time on it, and wearin