megawatt
05-10-2008, 12:30 AM
A while back I was complaining about the performance of my basically stock clutch. The bike is a fairly highly modified 1979 FXS with a 96" S&S EVO crate engine and a Baker 6 into 4 transmission. The clutch would slip at high speed (freeway driving) and would drag in gear at a stop. I was talking to shrktooth on this forum about it and he recommended the Primo/Rivera Pro clutch or the Barnett Scorpion clutch (there were others that mentioned these clutches as well but I spoke at length with shrktooth about it). I emailed Rivera asking some questions about their clutch but got no reply. I also emailed Barnett and very quickly got a response with the answers I was seeking (there were a couple more emails and a couple of phone calls to Barnett as well). For both clutches, the retail cost is about the same ($500)...Jireh had the Barnett for about $450 so I purchased from them. I haven't been riding my bike for about two months now due to surgical recovery (no big deal it's just taking time healing up) so I have been taking my time planning the install, getting the other needed stuff together and making the proprietary puller required to remove the Barnett clutch hub.
Well I finally felt okay enough to roll/crawl around on the garage floor here recently so I installed the new clutch. The instructions from Barnett are lacking only the recommendation to use only one pint of Type F ATF (I found out about that during one of the phone conversations with the Barnett rep.) due to the fact that the clutch is designed to be run dry. So there is only enough ATF in the case to lube the chain and other mechanical stuff but NOT to get up into the clutch shell. Initially, the fiber plates are soaked in ATF for 10 minutes but they are wiped off prior to install per the instructions.
Like I said, I am running a Baker 6 into 4 transmission and that added some additional parts requirements to my install. The Baker tranny uses a proprietary clutch adjustment screw and clutch hub nut seal so I had to get the proper adjustment screw and seal from Baker (no big deal, but necessary).
The adjustment screw from Baker needs to be modified to work with the Barnett clutch (shortened 1/2").
The Barnett clutch hub parts need to be pressed together and into the stock HD clutch shell. This isn't hard to do but you need access to a press and to be careful about supporting the bearing and other pieces to prevent damage whilst pressing them together. It all went smoothly for me and I ain't no genius so I'd say anyone with moderate mechanical ability can do it. Otherwise, I'm sure a shop would do the pressing for a nominal cost (whatever the hell that is these days).
There is no clutch spring adjustment other than a torque setting on the spring retainer bolts. You will need an inch pound torque wrench for these bolts and for the retainer bolts on the clutch hub after the hub/shell parts are pressed together.
The rest of the clutch adjustment is per stock HD service manual.
As soon as I finished the install I fired the bike up in the garage and tried it right then and there without going out onto the street yet. I have had a good feeling about this clutch all through this process and I am optimistic that my clutch woes are history (no drag and smooth engagement).
I have a few pictures but they are probably too big to post. I'll get my son to help me make 'em work here when I post again with a street test review of this baby.
Well I finally felt okay enough to roll/crawl around on the garage floor here recently so I installed the new clutch. The instructions from Barnett are lacking only the recommendation to use only one pint of Type F ATF (I found out about that during one of the phone conversations with the Barnett rep.) due to the fact that the clutch is designed to be run dry. So there is only enough ATF in the case to lube the chain and other mechanical stuff but NOT to get up into the clutch shell. Initially, the fiber plates are soaked in ATF for 10 minutes but they are wiped off prior to install per the instructions.
Like I said, I am running a Baker 6 into 4 transmission and that added some additional parts requirements to my install. The Baker tranny uses a proprietary clutch adjustment screw and clutch hub nut seal so I had to get the proper adjustment screw and seal from Baker (no big deal, but necessary).
The adjustment screw from Baker needs to be modified to work with the Barnett clutch (shortened 1/2").
The Barnett clutch hub parts need to be pressed together and into the stock HD clutch shell. This isn't hard to do but you need access to a press and to be careful about supporting the bearing and other pieces to prevent damage whilst pressing them together. It all went smoothly for me and I ain't no genius so I'd say anyone with moderate mechanical ability can do it. Otherwise, I'm sure a shop would do the pressing for a nominal cost (whatever the hell that is these days).
There is no clutch spring adjustment other than a torque setting on the spring retainer bolts. You will need an inch pound torque wrench for these bolts and for the retainer bolts on the clutch hub after the hub/shell parts are pressed together.
The rest of the clutch adjustment is per stock HD service manual.
As soon as I finished the install I fired the bike up in the garage and tried it right then and there without going out onto the street yet. I have had a good feeling about this clutch all through this process and I am optimistic that my clutch woes are history (no drag and smooth engagement).
I have a few pictures but they are probably too big to post. I'll get my son to help me make 'em work here when I post again with a street test review of this baby.