my 74 shovelhead, the brakes dont work to good. the bikesat for along time, before i got it. the rotorslook like there is some sort of dirt build up on them. iwent around the block with it, and the build up is coming off. i think it will take forever this way. any suggestions thanks. the brakes are stock

You might think about changing brake fluid as well as checking/changing the pads. Are you sure the 'dirt' you are referring to is not the pads coming apart?

You didn't mention if it was front or rear so I'm assuming it's the rear. Do the brakes feel "soft" when you step on the pedal? Does the pedal hold pressure or does it bleed through and bottom out? Brake fluid loves to absorb moisture. This causes weak brakes and internal corrosion.

First thing you need to do is flush the system. Remove the caliper and disassemble it including removing the piston. You can do this by pumping the pedal with the caliper apart or with air after removal from the bike. If you use air pressure to dislodge it be careful - wrap the caliper in a rag before applying air.Too much air will send the piston through your garage window and out into the yard - trustme on this!! Clean out the caliper and piston using denatured alcohol and #0000 steel wool.Check the condition of the "O" ring on the piston and the wiper ring on the caliper. Replace both if necessary.

Then pull the master cylinder and disassemble it. Clean ALL the crap out of it using the same method as the caliper. If the bore is loaded up with residue, take some more #0000 steel wool with plenty of brake fluid on it for lubrication and GENTLY twist it around in the bore. If it cleans up you may get away with just a rebuild kit.If it's pitted, chuck it and spring for a new m/c, but get the right bore size.

Next, blow out the brake line with air and push some alcohol through the line. I use a big hypodermic without the needle on it. Then dry it out with air.

Put everything back together after giving all internal components a liberal coating of brake fluid. Now would be a good time to switch to DOT 5. Prior to doing all this, consult your service manual - you do have one right? Clymer or HD manuals are great.

WARNING::::: If you have any doubts as to your ability to do all this, don't. Take it to someone who can. You gotta have brakes brudda.

Hope this helps.

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Arby

http://chopperville1.tripod.com

Good avice from ARBYI add one thing, use "Brake Clean" best stuff on the market (watch the paint) get the "Red Label" not the "Evrio crap in the Green label !!!

I had a rear stock cal on a '81 the worst brake ever made, my buddy rode it back in '84 I wanted to see haow his new shovel was : - ) I could believe how it stopped so much better than mine did, in fact he got off and said "how do you stop this thing" : - ))

feet of course, anyway a few years later I got a PM cal, talk about night and day !!!!

Remember Red Label !!!!!!!!!

ride safe,

cj

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[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n278/cjpic/HD-full-right-500.jpg

This is going to be a bit basic but is there any chance what you see as dirt on the rotor is actually rust? It's normal for disc brake discs to get a certain amount of rust when they sit for a week, month or .... It usually does clear up with a bit of driving and just normal use.

I think the chemical he is referring to is made by CRC and it's called "Brakleen". Most parts stores have it. He is right about the red and grean cans. The green is non-chlorinated and it does make a difference. The red cleans better, you just want to try and keep it off your hands as much as possible.

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You've been a bad girl, go to MY room!
1980 AMF (Harley want a b) FLT

what arby said. Take each and everything apart and clean,inspect and replace parts where necesary. It shouldn't be a quick fix. They're your brakes for God sakes,lol.

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A bad day riding is better then a good day at work.
1983 FLHS
1998 Ultra w/ TLE SC
2001 Ultra

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