bike was running at 300 degrees!!
oh i believe the oil pressure light is not working right now, either burnt out or the sensor is bad, so i dont know if it lost pressure or not just yet.
Rich
I just went through this myself.
Rich
i was planning on doing it anyways down the road, just not so soon.
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The reason why I say it depends on what all has to be done is because depending on when the last rebuild was done you may not have to have your cylinders re-bored to the next size up especially if the plugs came out and they were gas fouled and not oil fouled. If you pull the plugs after a few months of riding and the plugs have oil all over them, then the rebuild can be more expensive. Here's why. If the pistons rings aren't sealing as they should be because of uneven wear in the cylinders then they will have to be bored out to the next usable size up. That being said you will have to pay a shop to re-bore them, get larger pistons, new rings, and new gaskets. And/or you might need new valve guides and if thats the case then you will have to pay a shop to press out the old guides and press in new larger ones, which would mean you would have to get larger valves to accomodate the new larger guides.
So really it will only depend on how bad the motor is once you pull it apart. If the plugs are just fouled from gas (meaning real souty black deposits on the plugs) then a rebuild might come out to be sort of cheap. If thats the case then you could probably get away with just new rings, gaskets, maybe new stock valves, and honing the cylinders. That would probably only cost around 150 to 200.
If you do decide to do the rebuild invest in nice gaskets and not cheap ones especially for the head and the rocker boxes. There is a guy on ebay (link is below) that sells some really nice teflon head gaskets that work great, I use them on mine. He also sells some oversized rocker box gaskets that work really well too. Good luck!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heavy...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tef-l...spagenameZWDVW
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