This is a simple project, but maybe something you might be considering, so I'll show you what is involved.
I have some hand problems which don't allow me to have a very strong grip. Go ahead, get the "Go to the Gym" wisecrack off your chest now, I've heard it.
Anyway, last year I put a H-D EZ-Pull clutch kit in my TC-88. It works great and is cheap <$45 in parts + whatever for gaskets and fluids. The kit consists of a thinner (weaker) clutch diaphram spring, and a more elongated throwout rod "ramp". It really works well for a standard motor. I recommend it or one like it.
However, this past winter, I put a 98" set of jugs on with 9.7cr flattop pistons, a set of Andrews 37G cams, a Mikuni 42 flatside carb with a larger SE manifold, had some head work done, and changed over to a new V&H 2-into-1 exhaust. It's being dyno tuned today, and I expect somewhere near 100lb-ft/100hp out of it. We'll see.
In any case I was worried about the clutch in this new condition, so before I let the tuner beat it up, I thought I'd better do something about it.
I researched and bought an AIM Tamachi variable pressure clutch (VPC)
http://www.aim-tamachi.com. Visit their web site and view their movie. The model I selected was the VP-83T ($245).
Next, I bought the thicker and stronger SE diaphram spring. Cheap at $20, but with the easier pull of the VPC at low RPMs, it offers considerably better clamping power than with the standard diaphram (which I already had as well).
So here is the picture part of the install, with more commentary along the way.
Here is a pic of some nice cable lube I bought from them as well as the VPC package.
As you will see, the VPC itself is a replacement for the torque ring around the diaphram spring.
Here is the VPC upside down on my garage floor along with my primary clutch debry cover, also upside down. Notice the fingers on the back of the VPC that will contact the pressure plate and give it greater clamping power as centrifugal force from changes in RPMs occur.
The star shaped ring next to the derby cover and bolts go over the pressure plate to protect it from direct contact with the VPC fingers.
The scissors are for cutting out a paper template from their web site. used to verify proper clearance.
This shows the paper template cut out and placed over the back of the debry cover to verify the VPC weights will not touch the cover and cause an interference problem.
This is a very important step to check. Some derby covers will not work without grinding or use of a thicker gasket AIM Tamachi can supply.
The hole at the left is placed over one bolt hole, and the other side is placed at the opposite side.
Mine was perfect. Whew!
Here is a pic of the original clutch through the derby cover hole in the primary. Notice the torque ring with six bolts. The ring bolts compress the diaphram down onto matching studs under the diaphram. In the center is the adjusting bolt and lock nut that contact the throwout rod when the clutch lever is squeezed.
Notice that the whole clutch basket and torque ring are not centered in the hole. The bottom edge actually rests slightly below the lip of the hole.
What I'm not showing you here (to shorten this presentation up) is what happens during the next steps.
First, you "collapse" the clutch cable at the front downtube, then loosen the lock nut in the center of the clutch and relax the adjusting nut.
Next, you loosen and remove the six torque ring bolts in a gradual cross patten so the diaphram tension is evenly relaxed.
As this happens, the diaphram pushes against the primary cover, and will slightly trap the torque ring
Variable Pressure Clutch Project
