adjusting the clutch on a 72 big twin
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adjusting the clutch on a 72 big twin
i just pulled my 72 shovelhead form the garage and need to adjust the clutch behind the derby cover. i am alomst out of threads on the quick adjuster. i am too cheap to buy the manaul and i don't like the guys at the local HD shop. can someone send me the procedure. i have it running, but would like to set it according to the shop process.
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: adjusting the clutch on a 72 big twin
What are you calling the "quick adjuster"? Is that the clutch cable adjusting sleeve & locknut located at the end of the cable where it goes into the bracket near the release lever?
You can get a manual with a little searching for about $20 - $25. Buy one. Most HD shops won't touch Shovels any more. They seldom have a mechanic that has been trained on one.
Here's my adaptation of the procedure from an old Chilton's manual I picked up at a Barnes & Noble in Yew Nork Snitty for two bucks:
You should have 1/2 inch of freeplay at the hand lever, and there should be 3/8 - 7/8 inch clearance between the clutch release lever and the starter motor. If you can't get this by adjusting the clutch cable adjusting sleeve, then do the following:
1) Loosen the sleeve locknut, turn the sleeve to the right until it rests against the locknut.
2) Remove clutch cover (derby cover), loosen the pushrod locknut. Turn adjusting screw clockwise to move the release lever backward, counterclockwise to move it forward.
3) Tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver when the lever is about 1/2 inch from the starter motor.
4) Replace the derby cover with sealant and new gasket.
5) Adjust the clutch cable adjusting sleeve and locknut for the correct 1/2 inch freeplay at the hand lever.
If this doesn't adjust the clutch, i.e. it slips or grabs, then you have worn fiber plates, or warped steel plates, or weak springs, or a combo of all three. Then you'll need to at least adjust the clutch springs for the correct distance (1-1/32 inch) between the back of the pressure plate to the front of the clutch releasing disc. If this distance is correct and the cable & lever adjustments have been done, and the clutch still slips, then it's time to tear it apart.
Have you noticed how your clutch tends to "tug" when you're stopped at a light or stop sign? That's because there are ten springs, but only three adjusting screws, so they ain't evenly spaced, plus the clutch hub roller bearings are staggered. These two things tend to make the clutch hub sorta wobble, alternately tightening & loosening the plates. If you ride enough and it bugs you, look for a Ram Jett retainer kit, or The Big Fix kit.
You can get a manual with a little searching for about $20 - $25. Buy one. Most HD shops won't touch Shovels any more. They seldom have a mechanic that has been trained on one.
Here's my adaptation of the procedure from an old Chilton's manual I picked up at a Barnes & Noble in Yew Nork Snitty for two bucks:
You should have 1/2 inch of freeplay at the hand lever, and there should be 3/8 - 7/8 inch clearance between the clutch release lever and the starter motor. If you can't get this by adjusting the clutch cable adjusting sleeve, then do the following:
1) Loosen the sleeve locknut, turn the sleeve to the right until it rests against the locknut.
2) Remove clutch cover (derby cover), loosen the pushrod locknut. Turn adjusting screw clockwise to move the release lever backward, counterclockwise to move it forward.
3) Tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver when the lever is about 1/2 inch from the starter motor.
4) Replace the derby cover with sealant and new gasket.
5) Adjust the clutch cable adjusting sleeve and locknut for the correct 1/2 inch freeplay at the hand lever.
If this doesn't adjust the clutch, i.e. it slips or grabs, then you have worn fiber plates, or warped steel plates, or weak springs, or a combo of all three. Then you'll need to at least adjust the clutch springs for the correct distance (1-1/32 inch) between the back of the pressure plate to the front of the clutch releasing disc. If this distance is correct and the cable & lever adjustments have been done, and the clutch still slips, then it's time to tear it apart.
Have you noticed how your clutch tends to "tug" when you're stopped at a light or stop sign? That's because there are ten springs, but only three adjusting screws, so they ain't evenly spaced, plus the clutch hub roller bearings are staggered. These two things tend to make the clutch hub sorta wobble, alternately tightening & loosening the plates. If you ride enough and it bugs you, look for a Ram Jett retainer kit, or The Big Fix kit.
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