Just did the 5,000 mile service on the EG Classic and ran into an interesting situation. With the rear floorboards in place it is impossible to get to the derby cover screw that is in the 2:00 position. I had to remove the floorboard. I found that I could lower the floorboard one hole and get to the screw okay, but since the shortlegged grandkids are the only ones that use the rear floorboards, I don't want to do that. Guess I'll just have to take the floorboard off ever 5,000 miles.
I'm assuming you were changing the primary oil, I use the primary chain inspection/adjust port to add my oil, much easier IMHO, this way you can inspect the primary chain/slack and kill two birds with one stone.
That's not something to worry about. If you ever owned a japanese bike, then you would know what maintenance pains are. On the goldwing you have to remove most of the plastic and the seat to change the air filter. It's a 2-3 hour job and the dealer charges around $300 for it. On some sport bikes you have to do things like remove the rear wheel and some other stuff to do an oil change. On others you just have to remove all the plastic panels and the seat.
I know a little about metrics, the oil filter change on my wife's V-Star requires exhaust removal. I could name a few more from other metrics I have owned but I don't worry about them anymore.
I have to remove the seat and the gas tank to service the air breathers on my wife's Intruder. The oil change and final drive service is a snap though.
Never thought about that. Good idea. I always used the derby cover before because with the 80 inchers you had to fill to a certain level on the clutch basket, usually about 28 ozs. On the new ones, just dump in a qt.
1200c,
You got to be kidding. 2 hours for an air filter? Guess I'll quit my bitchin' about having to remove one bolt.
Stroked,
This is just a question but how hard was it to remove one allen bolt to remove the rear floorboard? I do it all the time and it's not a huge deal at all. Just curious if you are taking the whole moutning hardware off or just removing the one bolt and the floorboard? It shouldn't take more than about one minute to remove the rear board either side.
As for the primary fluid change that's the way to do it. Th eonly reason to remove the derby cover is if you just wanted to have a look see to make sure no one stole your clutch basket over night. LOL Hey you never know what some people will do these days.
When you do remove the primary inspection cover check the gasket to make sure it's the metal covered with composite material and if it is ther is no need to replace it each time. Wipe it off carefully as you don't want to bend it. The nclean the inspection plate very well then clean out the insert on the primary cover where the plate goes into. Clean your bolt threads and when you replace everything after replacing the drain screw and replaced the oil, just set the screws in not cuite finger tight, just a dite loose. Now with one hand wiggle the cover up and down then sideways and you will feel the cover meld back in place with the gasket then you can tighten down the screws in the correct order.
Be sure to torque them to the proper specs and remeber the derby cover and the inspectin cover screws are Inch Pound and not Foot Pound.
Also on the 05 models the drain plug for the primary is an allen screw and the rest on the inspection are torx as are the derby cover.
I believe that torx screws are #27 for both but they could be different on various models. SpiderJim.
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Bill,
I have been removing the bolt that holds the board on to remove the derby cover at each oil change. The primary chain inspection cover sounds alot easier and I don't see what difference it could make- the oil is going to the same place.
Vern
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What was Harley thinking?
