I never bought a basket case and not sure all I need to do. Say I find one, is it a matter of checking the VIN#'s, getting the title noterized and exchanging the money?????
Is there anything else I need to do special since the bike is in buckets??
Make sure you have all (or most) of the parts and make sure they are for the same model year.
A late model pan cylendar head on a late model would be a lot of work or would run for only a few miles before dying (oil passesages don't match up);
Just make sure you have the proper amount of play in everything when done & make sure the flywheels are aligned.
Buckeye, I gues I would first ask what kind of a basket. Different year models have some parts that will interchange; others will not. Anything after 1970 needs to have a matching fram and vin number.
I never bought a basket case and not sure all I need to do. Say I find one, is it a matter of checking the VIN#'s, getting the title noterized and exchanging the money?????
Just make certain that the VINs match the title...A True 'basketcase' will be a complete bike that has been disassembled. It'll be a bonus if over the years all the parts have been 'bagged and tagged'....You're still probably looking at a bunch of small parts that are missing.
ORIGINAL: BuckeyeFanInFL...The post was angled more toward a legal transfer of ownership...
I don't see a problem as long as the bike is sold with a clear title. And the VIN's all match. The Secretary of State in Michigan doesn't physically check vehicles. If it's an 'assembled' vehicle in Michigan, you need to get a form from either the State Police, or local LEO's where they run the VIN's to check for stolen stuff, before you can get it registered. Check with your state to see what they require.
Check with the DMV to see just what documentation you will need to register the bike when it is ready to go, then make sure you get what is needed.
When you start assembling the bike, check the fit of every part before you bolt it on, including the location of any oil passages.
Also, make sure that heads, pistons and barrels match for both cylinders. It can drive you nuts trying to find out why the bike doesn't seem to run quite right when it is caused by differences in compression or port sizes. A friend of mine once had problems with his generator shovel because one valve had a lifter that was converted to solid.
__________________
If you ever think the modifications to your bike are complete, it's only because you haven't been out to see the new stuff you can get.
My first Harley was in a basket(7 boxes to be exact) Like stated be sure you get a clear title that at least matches the engine (some aftermarket frames didnt have numbers).Be ready to spend many hours sorting parts to see what you have.Then be ready for close to a 2 yr process of building,hunting down,refabing parts and many many beers to complete it and then you will have a piece of you that cant be replaced.I messed up and sold mine.A 9ft 8in long 1972 hardtail Sporty.
__________________
I am the proud owner of a 1972 FLH that I have owned since 1987With over 200,000 miles on it
74ci .030 over
head work
Andrews B grind cam
Excel charginging and ignition
CCI Snake pipes
I purchased a 82 FXRS that was suppose to be all there. The small & big stuff can cost you plenty of greenbacks & grief. Be ready for the worse case scenario when you buy. There will more than likely much you'll need or wantto replace.
__________________
Toyman
PGR
My Scooters;
'06 Ultra Classic, V&H True Duals & fuel manager, SE A/C
'65 Police Servi-car Trike.
'82 FXRS Super Glide II project bike
'78 Suzuki GS1000E, fastest prod. bike made in '78