Let's see what's being used;)

TCSTD, I went on ahead and posted Mobil 1 V-twin instead of the Syn3 that is in my bike as I am going to the Mobil 1 at my next change. I don't like the Syn3 at all, and since I have used the Mobil 1 before I am going back.
I used Valvoline's dino moto oil in my 1100 Shadow because temperature wasn't an issue, and the dino oil worked just fine in it. My Ultra is a different story!

TCSTD, have you seen the new synthetic oil by Valvoline? I saw it in Autozone the other day, and they make it in 20w-50 and it is CF rated also. This may be another contender for us, and at $4.99 a quart the price is good too!:eek:

I think I will stick with the M1 even though it is more costly, I like the results.

I saw one product on M1's website:

______________________
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
Formulated specifically for four-cycle V-twin engines. Key benefits of Mobil 1® V-Twin 20W-50:
______________________

I assume this is the one I want for the 04 Fatty? Correct?

I'm becoming a convert myself but I'm so ignorant on the subject it scares me. If it were high end audio or home theater room acoustics or something, I'd be a plethora of useless information.. But I know diddly squat about oil. Trying to learn though and google a bunch.

The thing I know about Mobil 1 is their reputation.. While searching for myself (ie. looking for a job) out of college, I sold Porsche's, Audi's, Lotus.. Their mechanics at the dealer swore by the stuff from Mobil 1.

Are we or do we have the same poll for transmission and primary fluids? That would also be interesting.

The mobil 1 V Twin is 20/50, that's the correct one;)

>>>Are we or do we have the same poll for transmission and primary fluids? That would also be interesting.


Done!

Mobile 1 15/50 is not listed?


I can't play lol

TC,

I know this gets kicked around a lot, I just visited a different HD site where I read it suggested to run 75/90 in the Primary.

I'll go search pococj's post on the line up comparing to 75/90 but what harm if any would this cause?

Not to pick on them tooo much as I see they're a featured vendor over there..

But I've hit a few different forums and googled and Man o' Man.. Amsoil sure has a lot of presence (ie marketing push) out there.
I've seen some sites where they have comparisons that of course make them out to be the best and the site attempts to appear as an independent credible comparison on the surface but it doesn't take long to see it's their own show and tell advertisement. hmmmm I don't think I'd use them purely for that reason.. A business practice principle issue to me.

ORIGINAL: IU_Booger

TC,

I know this gets kicked around a lot, I just visited a different HD site where I read it suggested to run 75/90 in the Primary.

I'll go search pococj's post on the line up comparing to 75/90 but what harm if any would this cause?




Not an expert here, but I don't think 75/90 is a good choice for thr primary, too thick even though it's rated differently than engine oil. What you have to be carefull of in any oil is friction modifiers, there bad for any clutch.

ORIGINAL: Babs

Not to pick on them tooo much as I see they're a featured vendor over there..

But I've hit a few different forums and googled and Man o' Man.. Amsoil sure has a lot of presence (ie marketing push) out there.
I've seen some sites where they have comparisons that of course make them out to be the best and the site attempts to appear as an independent credible comparison on the surface but it doesn't take long to see it's their own show and tell advertisement. hmmmm I don't think I'd use them purely for that reason.. A business practice principle issue to me.



I agree with you completely!

funny thing you mention about amsoil.....i love their product, but i despise their marketing strategy, and therefore i am switching to mobil 1/redline shockproof combo.

ORIGINAL: Iceman

funny thing you mention about amsoil.....i love their product, but i despise their marketing strategy, and therefore i am switching to mobil 1/redline shockproof combo.


Way to go, you will not regret it, I've heard MANY people say the same as you.

ORIGINAL: Iceman

funny thing you mention about amsoil.....i love their product, but i despise their marketing strategy, and therefore i am switching to mobil 1/redline shockproof combo.


And you know.. their oil is probably a great product but their marketing guys might want to look at how they're portraying themselves on the web. Getting the name out is one thing, but it's how you go about it that lends to credibility.. Of course, really great products almost don't need advertising once they're established except for revenue maintenance.

Currently running Castrol Syntec because it can be found at any WalMart or auto store.. Any good 20/50 would do in a pinch..

ORIGINAL: jcc/tx

Currently running Castrol Syntec because it can be found at any WalMart or auto store.. Any good 20/50 would do in a pinch..



This is true in a pinch, however motorcycle oils are blended for air cooled engined and have additives that car oils don't. Take a look in the DIY forum under oils for some further info.

ORIGINAL: TCSTD


ORIGINAL: jcc/tx

Currently running Castrol Syntec because it can be found at any WalMart or auto store.. Any good 20/50 would do in a pinch..



This is true in a pinch, however motorcycle oils are blended for air cooled engined and have additives that car oils don't. Take a look in the DIY forum under oils for some further info.


Yea; I have read all that many times over and am not convinced. I think everyone should use what they are comfortable with. I would rather have a synthetic, but would not hesitate to go cross country on any modern automobile oil. YMMV

Jcc

Not trying to convince anybody, just presenting facts as they were presented to me. Your bike, Your choice, that's what makes america so great!:D

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

Jcc

Not trying to convince anybody, just presenting facts as they were presented to me. Your bike, Your choice, that's what makes america so great!:D


I agree wholeheartedly!!

Cheers;

JCC

Now see there ya go, we agree on something allready!:D

Going to change my oil next week and going to the Royal Purple 20W50 weight. Not thier cycle oil just the 20W50 regular. Hope this shouldn"t cause any problems. Change every2500 to 3000 miles. Should be better than syn3 I would think. Run Harley dino oil so am interested if this will help bike run cooler.

Keep us posted on your findings;)

bassrock
Why not go with the cycle oil? It has been formulated for air cooled engines where the regular has not. The Syn 3 is not what I would call a full synthetic. It starts off life as a non synthetic basestock and is developed into a synthetic.:eek:

I will be going to the Mobil 1 I believe but I won a case of royal purple 20W 50 in a charity auction for $21. I thought I could get the max cycle but after I won the auction I was informed only motor oil. So I am planing on using this case and going to the motorcycle Mobil 1.

Redline 20w-50.......................... Engine ........... To be changed with filter at 5000 miles
Redline MTL............................... Primary ......... To be changed at 7500 miles
Redline Heavy Shockproof.......... Tranny ......... To be changed at 7500 miles

Anyone spotted a trend here..............[sm=exactly.gif]

WB

Seems like somebody likes redline:D

Did you cast a vote up above?

LOL...[sm=bustedsign.gif]

Yes I voted

WB

Getting some interesting results so far;) The numbers speak for themselves.

So whats the difference between Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 and the HD 20W-50?

Mobil 1 is synthetic and the HD isn't;) assuming that you are talking about their 360 oil

And actually, the Mobil 1 is a full synthetic whereas I thought I read somewhere the Syn 3 is a semi from base crude stock.
correct?

I believe you are correct .;)

I have a new 05 WG and plan on letting the dealer do the 1,000 mile service and do their SYN 3, in all 3 holes if they say so.

I will do this first for warranty issues, and second I feel SYN 3 is probably a "good" product.

I feel Mobil 1 V-Twin oil may be the best choice for the engine, and although I am not as informed as I would like, I get the feeling SYN 3 has certain additives which make it "useful" in all 3 holes. I am unsure if wet clutches really would like a true synthetic with super slippery components, and so on.

So, for now I will try SYN 3, don't imagine it not working well under normal circumstances.

Also, considering an engine oil cooler. After all, an air cooled engine probably benefits mostly from keeping heat down and oil temp. down. Motorcycle engines / drivetrains don't work hard like a big truck, etc. anyway. IMHO.

You'd be much better off with a gear lube in the trans like mobil 1 - 75/90 or redline shockproof heavy. Syn 3 is too light for the trans and will not stand up well to the shear of the gears in there even though dealers will use it in there.

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

You'd be much better off with a gear lube in the trans like mobil 1 - 75/90 or redline shockproof heavy. Syn 3 is too light for the trans and will not stand up well to the shear of the gears in there even though dealers will use it in there.


I sort of know that. I have a very good dealer, will they be open to doing a Mobil-1 75/90 in the trans., or do they insist on their stuff, even if it is dino 75/90?

They'll put it in there for you if you bring it in there. Why not do it yourself? It's one bolt, the stuff pours out, you put the bolt back in. Take the dipstick off the top, put 20 oz in, check the level, tighten the cap and the drain plug down, and your done.

Mac

ORIGINAL: DCRANER


ORIGINAL: TCSTD

You'd be much better off with a gear lube in the trans like mobil 1 - 75/90 or redline shockproof heavy. Syn 3 is too light for the trans and will not stand up well to the shear of the gears in there even though dealers will use it in there.


I sort of know that. I have a very good dealer, will they be open to doing a Mobil-1 75/90 in the trans., or do they insist on their stuff, even if it is dino 75/90?



Whoever pays for the oil has the right to choose the type is the way I look at it.:D

x

I used Syn3 last oil change but am considering going back to regular 20-50. one question though I was told once I use a Syn oil not to change back???

No problem at all going back to regular 20/50. They will mix with no problems.

Hey everyone, Great Forum! Tons of great information, lots experience and opinions…

You’ve convinced me to switch to synthetic lubricants. And wouldn’t you know it, as I searched around these small towns here up here in the southeast corner of Washington State, no one had Mobil 1 V-Twin oil or Redline shock proof heavy in stock! Then these dirty rotten little ######’s wanted an arm and a leg (too much money) to order in some.

But wait, I noticed that the local NAPA parts store had stocked AMSOIL products (because of the great number of Farmers in this area). What the heck, I thought, I might as well try this brand synthetic lubricants. I’ve read the propaganda on the AMSOIL web site before… ya know they say their synthetic oil is better than everyone else’s, and it all but makes you walk on water…. Yea, Yea, What ever…

So in following your suggestions I purchased some AMSOIL V-Twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil, as well as AMSOIL Server Gear 75W- 90 Extreme Pressure lube.

And Damm, you guys are right! These synthetic oils did just what you said they would do! Not only does my Road King Classic (engine) run quieter and cooler, but she (its transmission) shifts quieter and easier!

Three of my friends noticed the difference and now they also switched from HD Syn 3 to the AMSOIL synthetic oils. (Yes, I let them ride my bike. And No, I wouldn’t let them ride my Ol’ Lady. Even though some think it’s a trade off.)

Seriously Gentlemen, whether its AMSOIL or Mobil 1 or Redline or Royal Purple or what ever synthetic lubricants you prefer, just do it! Make the switch! For you won’t regret it.

Signed: Glad to have found this Forum and to have switched to true synthetic lubricants,

Respectfully Cptn.Murff

ORIGINAL: Cptn.Murff
...no one had Mobil 1 V-Twin oil or Redline shock proof heavy in stock!



Welcome to the forum.. :)

Here's an online source for Mobil 1 V-Twin: http://store.avlube.com/mob1vtwinair1.html
Here's an online source for Redline products: http://www.myoilshop.com/

Should you want to give those a try.. They are available. I found the mobil 1 at Walmart for $7.19 or $7.16 a quart.

My RK has 53K on it using Mobil 1 15W50 car oil evry change since new. comparing it to the Mobil 1 V twin shows they are almost exactly the same. I use an AC PF-53 filter and get better oil pressure than the H-D purolator furnished filter and they cost about $3.50 and are readily available as is the mobil 1.

Great thread. I voted all Syn 3 but I see an oil exodus in my future....
Syn 3 at the local dealer is 8.00 so if Mobil V-Twin is 7.00 at Walmart, then that settles it.

ORIGINAL: Taildraggerdave

Great thread. I voted all Syn 3 but I see an oil exodus in my future....
Syn 3 at the local dealer is 8.00 so if Mobil V-Twin is 7.00 at Walmart, then that settles it.


From what I've read, especially in that 103 Cube engine, you should get cooler smoother performance than with the Syn 3 but opinions vary. I'm going to try it and follow up with my engineering learning... "In God we trust, all others bring data". So I'm going to run the test.

I also currently have syn3 in all.. My hopes is the switch back to dino primary fluid and to shockproof heavy in the tranny will improve shifting and clutch action also.. But the main goal is keeping the nasty little metal wear flaking from showing up on the drain plugs at change inspections.

Gorgeous SE Fatboy by the way.. That gray look on the frame and engine along with the paint.. Killer looking scoot. :D

I see and hear a lot about why people do not like Amsoil! It comes done to their advertising! I know, I know, this is going to sound like another one, but my take on it is, IF ANYONE watches TV, during ANY NASCAR/INDY race or Sports event, you will get Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol or any other major oil advertisment as well! Amsoil is just another one! Yes, the people you are getting all the Amsoil issues from are just "Normal" people who are trying to make a "BUCK"! The same as ALL the other oil companies, but they just do not have all the money these others do! SOME do a "GOOD" job in selling Amsoil, SOME do not! Just like buying a used car! Some you would buy from, some you see coming a mile away! I put Amsoil in my bike AFTER I had Mobil 1 in and YES, I have seen a difference between them both! NOT MUCH, but some! It seems to start better, as far as gas mileage goes, I do not get any better with ANY of the oils I have tried! The old saying "OIL IS OIL" well, that MAY BE true, and it MAY NOT be true! You have to go with your gut! My brother has a 1996 Saturn with WELL OVER 225,000 miles and uses NOTHING but Pennzoil, and has not even a problem! Some would say that is MORE then enough miles with REGULAR oil, NO SYNTHETIC at all! So, all this talk over oil, just might be for nothing! Again, this is my take on this issue!

Castrol 20-50 auto dino. Change every 3000 miles 65,000 mikes on one of my bikes. Has worked for years for me in many scooters. To each his own, but got to like $1.59 qt for the oil.

Exactly! I think that this syn oil craze is crapola. I started using the cheapest 20-50 I can find. My bike and I don't know the difference. For all we know, they could be putting non-synthetic oil in a bottle with a synthetic wrapper and charging up the wazoo for it. Screw that. AND, for years HD recommended NOT to use syn oil, then they came out with their own brand of high dollar oil and NOW they say that you MUST use it. Can you say "scam".

I run Amsoil in all 3 cavities. Switched my bike over at 3500 miles. It starts easier, shifts smoother and even high speed acceleration seems a bit smoother. I'm sold.

I use Amsoil. I change it out at 5000 miles or 6 months due to the moisture and deposits that accumulate. I can say that I have noticed a 10 degree drop in operating temp but no other changes in the engine. Tim

Syn3 in the primary and engine, Redline Shockproof heavy in the tranny.

joe
:D

ORIGINAL: Babs

Not to pick on them tooo much as I see they're a featured vendor over there..

But I've hit a few different forums and googled and Man o' Man.. Amsoil sure has a lot of presence (ie marketing push) out there.
I've seen some sites where they have comparisons that of course make them out to be the best and the site attempts to appear as an independent credible comparison on the surface but it doesn't take long to see it's their own show and tell advertisement. hmmmm I don't think I'd use them purely for that reason.. A business practice principle issue to me.

First off I am just trying to enlighten people about Amsoil. And to explain Amsoil business practice.:D:D:D
The ads don't appear as independant credible comparisons...they are conducted by an independant lab and Amsoil had them do the tests in accordance with the required test procedures.

The reason there is a lot of presence is that Amsoil is mainley sold by independant dealers. Most of these dealers are very knowledgeable about lubrication. And we are available 24/7 to answer. Nobody at Wal-Mar is. Mobil and HD have more of a presence than Amsoil. They spend big bucks promoting their products on TV and magazines. That's the way business in America runs.

Amsoil does most of their advertizing by dealers and race sponsorship.
And guess what, thats not Texaco oil in the Texaco car.

The comparisons with other lube products showing Amsoil to be the best is documented by Amsoil and given to their dealers. If those comparisons were not true HD and Mobile and all the others would have sued Amsoil a long time ago. I don't think the Amsoil sites "attempt to appear as an independant credible comparison", these comparisons come from Amsoil inc and are presented on independant approved Amsoil web sites. I guess it is "Show and tell advertising", Just like everyone elses. Does not Mobil and all the other oil companies have their own show and tell advertisement. :D:D
By the way Harley Davidson has been commended as being the greatest when it come to an advertising campaign.[sm=exactly.gif]

NC Brew...Available 24/7 syntheticoil@mchsi.com

Here is an interesting article on this subject. I used Castrol GTX in my last oil change. Makes me nervous but I feel like a stooge paying $5/Qt+[sm=icon_cheers.gif] for motorcycle oil.


http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

Hey NC Brew,
Meant to reply back and say I wasn't out to offend you.. Was just stating a less than stellar first impression.. So if anything consider it just feedback.. Maybe just a little criticism of the websites I saw, and I may have jumped to conclusions about the advertizing strategy. If it means anything, from what I'm reading around here about the Amsoil products, they're pretty good.. So also as another NC boy (although from the dreaded western NC area), I hope you sell a bazillion cases. :)

I made the switch to Mobile 1 75/90 two days age. My concern is it took a solid 24 oz to fill. Manual says 20 oz. Can I hurt the tranny by having too much? It sure looks like it takes 24 oz to fill my 05 deluxe. I have only rode it a few miles due to weather conditions. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. SW

I've been using the 360 oil, but I am thinking about switching over to the mobil 1 synthetic, does anyone know if the motor will run cooler?

ORIGINAL: IndyFatboy

Here is an interesting article on this subject. I used Castrol GTX in my last oil change. Makes me nervous but I feel like a stooge paying $5/Qt+[sm=icon_cheers.gif] for motorcycle oil.


http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html


According to these test results, Mobil 1 is the superior oil. I like the way the tests were done. Also appears the MC VS Auto sell is exagerated. I am sticking with Mobil 1. Thanks for the article IndyFatboy.

When I first got my FXDWG3, a month and 1/2 ago, I changed to Syn3 in all three holes and noticed a difference when changing gears. It seems like it clunks more than with the gear lube that was in it when purchased. I don't know what was in it, but it selled like plain old 90 weight gear oil. The clutch feel is fine and the engine seems ok with the Syn3. I think I'll change to the Redline Shockproof Heavy, since I can get it cheap at Pepboys, my oldest Son works at one...

Has anyone any thoughts on the Primary Oil of choice with OEM Clutch Plates? My guess is to stay away from any oil with high levels of MDS.

Keith

local://upfiles/5915/1BF9EA3C0DC24589B06ADFBBC1F22F5F.jpg

local://upfiles/5915/6BFC1E2CAED641CB80A76F6B39E8A8C6.jpg

The best I have found is the regular HD primary oil. I changed from the Syn 3 that came in my bike and noticed a better clutch action with the primary oil. It hooked up smoother and a better bite. Price wise, you can't go wrong either.

I run Mobil 1 V Twin in the engine (found at Wally World where they keep their assortment of motorcycle accessories that
I would never buy) good ol HD Primary in the primary and Redline Shockproof in the Tranz. Runs great.

Good combo, I run the same myself, works well.

HD 360

oops wrong forum. :D

AMSOIL out performs any of the other synthetics. MLBIL 1 is second best and SYN3 is worse of all. Tests actually shoe HD360 outperforming SYN3.

I want to say that Mobil 1 make sthe SYN 3 for HD and the slap their label on it.


Any ways I use the 20w50 Royal Purple Max Cycle in all three places and a dramatic difference in acceleration, less vibes at idle, better gas mileage, shifts and goes into gear and nuetral easiern and the clutch acts better.

Now this is going from SYN 3 to RP Max Cycle.

I have done this in both of my bikes, also my friends have changed over in thier Fat Boy, Softail standard, Lowrider and Ultra Classic and the results are seriously noticable across the board all changed from Syn 3.

I even had the RP rep come out to and do a demo with a Timken Bearing load tester, water mix test.

Impressive stuff !! Test even compared against the other syn oils and they failed.

Did the change, finally this weekend. Dropped the syn3 after 2000 miles (it had been in there for a good while, so it was time).

I did the 5 qt oil change to clear the crank using the Scavenger (messy). It's got Mobil 1 VTwin running now. I got one good ride in and verified the level is ok. I could tell a difference right off hand.. Which should be the case with any oil change.

I will say the oil that came out looked to me pretty black and nasty.. I'm glad it's done. I could really tell the difference when the clean oil made it's way around the crank back to the return line.. It was like the Ten Commandments when Yule Brenner poured the water and it suddenly turned into blood.. hehe.. Black sludge was suddenly replaced with a beautiful caramel clear oil.. We shall see how the M1 product does.. From what I've read here, I'm riding with comfidence. The tranny and primary is next.. Got the Shockproof heavy waiting for more lift time.

With the svc manual, the fix my hog dvd (which I'll write a separate review of), the scavenger system, a few more trips to the tool section of Sears, the new Craftsman lift (made in china. yeah I know. I wasn't happy about it either).....

I'm on the way to doing ALL my own service on this bike.. Now I just need the TIME! :D and some good riding weather like we had New Years Day.

Happy New Year!

Babs,
I have not used the scavenger yet. What did you mean by "messy"? Any tips to avoid the mess? The video made it look very clean. Thanks for the tips.

ORIGINAL: turbo nasty

I want to say that Mobil 1 make sthe SYN 3 for HD and the slap their label on it.


Lubricants
Product H-D Part#
Manufacturer
H-D WINTER FUEL CONDITIONER 99889-91A HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FUEL ADDITIVE 99893-91A Polar Molecular
H-D FORK OIL TYPE B 99880-73 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FORK OIL TYPE E 99884-80 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE FORK OIL (HEAVY) 99881-87 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE RACING FORK OIL (EXTRA HEAVY) 99909-93R CITGO Petroleum
H-D PRIMARY LUBRICANT 99887-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 10W-40 99816-1040 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 20W-50 99816-2050 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 50 99816-50 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 60 99816-60 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE LUBRICANT 99824-03 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SEMI-SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT 99892-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SPORT-TRANS FLUID 99896-88 HJS of Wisconsin
DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID 99902-77 Dow-Corning
H-D WHEEL BEARING GREASE 99856-92 HJS of Wisconsin
SPECIAL PURPOSE GREASE 99857-97 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D POLY OIL 99860-81 General Polymeric

Product H-D Part#...Manufacturer
HARLEY GLAZE 99701-84 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY GLOSS 94627-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SUN WASH 94659-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SWIRL & SCRATCH REMOVER 94655-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY WHEEL & TIRE CLEANER 94658-98 Chemrite Industries
H-D WINDSHIELD WATER REPELLENT 99841-01 Chemrite Industries
H-D SPRAY POLISH 99817-99 Petro-Chemical Products
HARLEY BRIGHT METAL POLISH 99725-89 Rolite Chemical
H-D BLACK CRÈME POLISH 99271-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CARE 98263-95V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CLEANER 99274-98V Apple Polishes
H-D SUEDE & FABRIC CLEANER 99272-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER DRESSING 98261-91V Pecard Chemical

I use nothing but Mobil synthetic products in my bike. Proven tp be a good oil and I like the results.

Good Ole HD 20W50 non syn since my engine is still new.

First of all, I don't change my own oil any more. Got sick of the mess and getting rid of the old oil! Always used H-D 20-50 (I think) in my 91 for years while living in NY State. Bought an 04 Lowrider and used the same. However, traded for 06 Ultra and when the dealer did the 1000 mile service, had syn 3 put in. Living in AZ now and have heard this handles the heat better. Asked whether they put it in all 3 holes and they said no. With the 06s they went to a heavier lube in the other 2 holes. Don't remember what they called it. As long as I'm under warranty, I'll use what the dealer recommends. Cost difference is not the main criteria to me. Warranty support is a pretty high criteria.

I got my mobil 1 Vee Twin Oil At walmart the did not have it with the motor oil but with the motorcyle filters
and i put Redline shock proof gear oil(heavy snth) in the tranny make it shift way better

M1 Vtwin 20/50 in engine and primary. Redline Shockproof Heavy in tranny.

YB

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

ORIGINAL: turbo nasty

I want to say that Mobil 1 make sthe SYN 3 for HD and the slap their label on it.


Lubricants
Product H-D Part#
Manufacturer
H-D WINTER FUEL CONDITIONER 99889-91A HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FUEL ADDITIVE 99893-91A Polar Molecular
H-D FORK OIL TYPE B 99880-73 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FORK OIL TYPE E 99884-80 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE FORK OIL (HEAVY) 99881-87 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE RACING FORK OIL (EXTRA HEAVY) 99909-93R CITGO Petroleum
H-D PRIMARY LUBRICANT 99887-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 10W-40 99816-1040 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 20W-50 99816-2050 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 50 99816-50 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 60 99816-60 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE LUBRICANT 99824-03 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SEMI-SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT 99892-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SPORT-TRANS FLUID 99896-88 HJS of Wisconsin
DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID 99902-77 Dow-Corning
H-D WHEEL BEARING GREASE 99856-92 HJS of Wisconsin
SPECIAL PURPOSE GREASE 99857-97 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D POLY OIL 99860-81 General Polymeric

Product H-D Part#...Manufacturer
HARLEY GLAZE 99701-84 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY GLOSS 94627-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SUN WASH 94659-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SWIRL & SCRATCH REMOVER 94655-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY WHEEL & TIRE CLEANER 94658-98 Chemrite Industries
H-D WINDSHIELD WATER REPELLENT 99841-01 Chemrite Industries
H-D SPRAY POLISH 99817-99 Petro-Chemical Products
HARLEY BRIGHT METAL POLISH 99725-89 Rolite Chemical
H-D BLACK CRÈME POLISH 99271-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CARE 98263-95V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CLEANER 99274-98V Apple Polishes
H-D SUEDE & FABRIC CLEANER 99272-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER DRESSING 98261-91V Pecard Chemical





Thats some good info! Thanks, thats what I like about this site, you learn something new everyday.

Iam still on the fence as to what oil to use after my break-in period. I understand what every says on the Amsoil "marketing approach". But I have used it in my 4 wheel vehicles and have been very happy with the results.

Leaning in the direction of the Mobil V-twin oil

Well I just changed my oil again, 5000 miles, and used Amsoil for the last time. I paid $9.99 a quart for the stuff! My wife found Mobil 1 V-twin at our local Walmart last night for $7.37 a quart! I thought the increase in price was due to Katrina, like everything else, when I bought the last Amsoil! Tim

does anyone know the correct number for a A/C Delco oil filter to fit a 1989 FLHT with a EVO motor? thanks for a reply

Hello to all. New member on HDF. Interesting thread and info with friendly opinions. Currently using Syn 3, motor & primary, because of a dealer service contract. Now I’m on my own and will go back to using Mobil-1 Syn V-twin, or AMSOIL Syn V-twin. Have used both for 12 years without complaints.

In the transmission, I use AMSOIL or Spectro, Synthetic 75-90 Gear Lube and I’m satisfied with them as well. I only use MC rated oils because of the Additive Pkg. for air-cooled engines and see no reason to change.

I have two questions if anyone cares to share their opinions…
1. I haven’t read any comments on Spectro products. Any users or opinions ?
2. Opinions on the use of Automotive Syn oil, vs. MC Syn oil in an air-cooled V-twin ?

Thanks for your replies...


Forget about quest. #2 I've just found enough opinions in this thread that I now need to take another Valium.
See 'Oil Basics, Part 2'. Great info and Forum !!! Thanks to all the contributors...

http://www.hdforums.com/m_143330/tm.htm

I agree with you 100%. I put Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 in the engine, 15w-50 ( Auto oil ) in the primary, and Mobil 1 75w-90 Gear lube in the Transmission. Everything works silky smooth. I have a 2006 Dyna that has not had the recall work done on it. My Tranny clicks smoothly into every gear. And !! neutral is easy to find. ( I only had trouble finding neutral on my bike the first fifty miles after taking delivery.) Each 100 miles additional the tranny got better. But the Mobil 1 Gear lube, convinced me that their lube is worth every penny. If my tranny keeps working as perfectly as it is now, I may not get the recall work done. If it really ain't broke do'nt mess with it.
P.S. I wonder if Harley had chosen to develop a true synthetic Gear Lube, if they would ever had a recall for the 06 Dyna ( June- Oct. Models ) Transmission. ( Hard to find, and sometimes a false neutral indication. ) In my opinion Synthetics are built in a lab. Not Cracking oil to get uniform sized molecules. ( Reference Mobil 1 lawsuit against Castrol's cracked synthetic method. )

Ah,
A subject close to my heart.... Oil! I'm no expert but I do have a lot of experience with oil. I worked for 17 years with Shell oil co. in california before I moved to Kauai. I worked on the Lube oil blender in the compounding facility so I got to rub shoulders with some pretty "Lube Educated" people....

The only thing I would use Harley oil for is break-in, but because they charge an arm and a leg for that I would use any good dinosaur oil for breakin. Ever wonder why harley says you can use a good diesel service oil in place of harley oil in a pinch? The reason is the additives. Diesel service produces a lot of acids & dilution.

First off I would like to say that I use Amsoil. I have have been doing my own testing on Amsoil by having my oil analyzed on a regular basis. Yeah, it costs me a little extra that way, but I get an education for my investment. I don't believe everything I read. Most just echo what they have heard others say. I am heading for 10,000 miles without an oil change which Amsoil says you can do with their oil. Stupid if it's crappy oil but again it's the additive package they use. The enemy of oil is heat and dirt. Keep it cool, keep it clean and it will last a long time. Last July I shipped my 04 FLSTC to california and did a 2000 mile trip on fresh oil. I went through death valley on a 110+ degree day and my oil temperature got over 260 degrees. I was sweating bullets thinking my motor was history but kept going. When I got the bike back to Kauai, I sampled it and sent it in for analysis. I even told them that I thought I over heated it and it came back almost like new spec oil. I have sampled it since then and it is still very usable. I am still using it and now have over 8000 miles on it. I got the paperwork if anyone is interested.

All oils have a base stock and then the additive package. It consists of a lot of different things like antiacids, antifoams, Some have anti-dilution additives & friction modifiers and on and on. I don't want to get into the chemistry but the only difference between motor oil & gear oil is the additive package. 20W-50 & 75-90 gear oil are the same except for the additives. Actual viscosity is the same. They just use a different scale. Because there is no combustion in gear boxes, there is no need for additives for combustion. Here's the rub.... The amount of gear oil made compaired to motor oil made is significant. Since most canning lines use the same equipment for both oils, shutting down, flushing the system, setting up the new packaging takes time and costs money. That's why the gear oil costs more even though it has less additives. The Point! Using the same oil in all 3 holes turns out to be economics and because the extra additives don't help or hurt a tranny or chaincase, it's a no brainer.

As an operator and a mechanic for the local power company I have learned some other interesting facts about Syn oil. We have a G.E.
Aeroderivitive gas turbine generating package and it uses only synthetic oil. We're talking about tight tolerences here folks. Regular oil would smoke this engine. We do regular sampling of the oil and the advantages are, oil changeout cost savings, Manpower savings, natural resourse savings, but mostly it gives a picture of the integrety of the equipment because the analysis shows the amount of metal and contaminates in the oil which can show early signs of failure .

One nice piece of equipment we have is a Bore Scope for poking into inspection ports in the engine to look for compressor dammage. When I got my bike back to Kauai, I pulled the spark plugs and put the scope in the cylinder and looked all around. I was expecting to some scoring on the cylinder walls from the elevated temperatures but what I saw was a pristine looking cylinder wall with all the original hone crosshatching. I looked up at the head and the valves and only saw a small amount of carbon near the exhaust and that's because I tend

I was thinking Sunoco and Shell were the current suppliers. Mobil /Exxon was trying to get HD dealers to sell their Mobil 1 motorcycle products through the dealeships. Since a lot of Bikers use Mobil 1 anyways.

I stand corrected. Thanks for the info.

Any name brand 20/50 that is on sale and meets spec........oil is oil. [unless you beleave the marketers hype]
Oh by the way I used Valvoline 20/50 CAR OIL from Fleet Farm at $1.45 a quart last oil change. It meets spec.local://upfiles/1346/CE297C76835444F787970CD71CF86A51.jpg

When I was working for shell we built a bulk rack just for Valvoline and Cheveon to pick up truck loads (9000 gallons) of our base stock. we sold 2 or 3 truckloads a day. I came from the Martinez, Ca refinery by ship. You never know where your favorite oil comes from or gasoline for that matter. The secret is the additive package.

You know... one brand I've yet to see mentioned here (in this thread) is the Valvoline V-Twin oil. Anyone use it, have any opinions?

From what I read on their website, it looks to be a blend of base stock and synthetic. Prolly not my first choice, but likely to be a reasonable alternative to some of the more favored oils (i.e. Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc.)

Also... just picked up a filter for my 01' Train at the stealership. Couldn't help but notice they're claiming that their (what is now being called their premium filter for the big twin) filter is a 5 micron?

Anyone have any proof to this? My closest friend designs and builds multi-pass oil filter test stands for the filter industry (or anyone else that's interested in owning one). I think I'm going to buy an extra and have him run the tests on it.

Do you think the fact that S&S just officially endorsed Mobil 1 V twin will change anyones mind?

i use bel-ray big twin synthetic works really good and had no problems .

I have used reg HD 20w50 for all of my bikes, but I am going to make the switch this time to the Mobil 1 15w50 automotive oil, in my 06 FLTRI, I can buy it for $5.25 qt. and plan to change it every 5k anyway. I like the idea of the Synthetics, and know all the 'GOOD' reasons to use it. I jst think $9qt for Syn3 is a bit much. I like the idea of the new Formula+ going 10k, and so . . . . 'That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

It is very interesting to me that the MoCo is now changing their tune about Syn3 in ALL 3 holes. I never thought that 'OIL' in a trany would fit the bill. NO shock value in at ALL.!

JMHO,

WD

local://upfiles/8848/B2C85399BC9F4C34A99035B7FBAACC8C.jpg

how is Lucas oil products for a Harley motorcycle?

Amsoil MCV 20W-50

Ams Oil 20w-50. I own a 2002 fatboy. I tried the Syn 3 for one season and this oil is GARBAGE. My engine made a hell of a lot more noise with that JUNK in it than regular old dino oil. It doesn't take "rocket science" to figure out that if an engine is louder that means more friction or metal to metal contact.
I switched to AmsOil and was sceptical at first because of all the hype BUT, seeing or I should say not hearing is believing. The engine is much quieter under hard runnings and especially during the HOT SUMMER temps. I'm paying $6.99 a quart which makes it $2.00 a quart cheaper than the Syn 3. I also have extended my oil changes from 1500 miles to over 2000 miles with no noticable break down of the oil. I've been running harleys for 30 years and this is the best oil I have used..... I know what your thinking and No I don't sell Ams Oil.

You forgot the "None of the above" choice. :D

I usually use Valvoline Racing oil or Lucas Hi-Performance oil (20W-50). My engine sounds the same no matter what oil I use. I've tried several synths and after dyno testing and engine inspections after using them for several thousand miles, I've noticed no significant advantage to synths. I only use fossil oil now, and if I can't find the two above, I buy whatever is on sale at Autozone or Walmart. As long as the oil is the proper grade, it really doesn't matter. All oils have to be changed regularly anyway. Some people think synths can be run longer... not true. I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles no matter what. I'm on the road most of the year, so I need something that I can pick up just about anywhere. That's why I don't bother with Amsoil or similiar harder to find brands. Not every little town in North America has a supplier.

How the heck do you delete a post here? I accidently made a dupe (this one) and just changed the text.

Mobil 1 V Twin

Re. the MCN article at

Oil test article (http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html)

Bottom Line


It could appear from this data, then, that there is no validity to the constantly-used argument that motorcycle-specific oils provide superior lubrication to automotive oils when used in a motorcycle. If the viscosity drop is the only criterion, then there is certainly no reason to spend the extra money on oil specifically designed for motorcycles. There does, however, appear to be a legitimate argument for using synthetic and synthetic-blend oils over the petroleum based products.

Man, that's interesting. Of course it's 4:30am and I'm bored. It's too early to fire up the bike. That would fire up the wife!:D

I have been using syn 3 but want to know who makes it for harley no one can tell me I am thinking of going to redline but need to kknow if I can use it in trains and primary like syn 3 anyone

I am a new HD owner of a used 2003 FLHTC-I. I am trying to get a handle of the oil requirements. According to the original owners manual I should use HD brand or I can substitute with a same weight oil for diesel engines. The trouble is, I cannot locate 20W-50 in a API Service CH-4 (Diesel) without buying the HD brand. From the sound of it, most are ignoring the Diesel requirement and using fossil or synthetic 20W-50 oils without problems. Is a 20W-50 API Service SL or better changed every 3000 to 4000 miles adequate? Why are the diesel additives suggested for a gasoline engine? I can easily find 15W-40 CH-4. It would seem to me that the correct viscosity would be more important than additives that are designed for a fuel that is not used.

Hi Folks-
since the "forum" has been good to me, I decided to give my '02 on the oil forum. On my '06 Heritage I started out running SYN3.....mine ( this in just MHO ) was louder and more engine noise. After 1000 milesand the first service I couldnt take it anymore...sounded like marbles in an empty coffee can, lol....so I held my breath and made the switch to amsoil. I have to admit, I was a little swayed by the advertisements....but in my bike it has made a huge difference. Much quieter and running cooler.
So....with all that said......I say, its your bile run what makes you happy...but in my case its amsoil full syn.
Thanks for the great forum!!

I've been using 20W50 Valvoline racing oil and hope it's not the wrong stuff to use.

Same here, Castrol Syntec 20/50. I have used it for many years.

HD dino.(old bike) Born and raised on it.

Just did my 1,000 mile oil change (800 miles actual on the bike) and used the 20-50 Valvoline 100% synthetic in my engine. I've had good luck with the valvo dino oil in my '82 shovelhead and various autos over the years, I see no reason I shouldn't have good luck with the synthetic in my TC 88 softy. $5.00 and change per qt. from Checker.

M1 V-TWIN 20/50 IN CRANKCASE

M1 75/90w trans

Still have syn3 in primary

I agree with the guy that said syn3 made his whole sound like it had marbles in it.

Once I got the syn3 crap out of my trans, it got way quieter. I'll NEVER put engine oil in my transmission again.

I think Amsoil, Redline, or M1 are probably best choices all around.

Just my .02

10,0000 miles on 06 SG

I have read every post on this thread and not only do I have a headache but I am confused as h3!!

My '05 Fat Boy is running Syn 3 (6200 miles) in all 3. My '07 Ultra is 2 weeks from it's 1000 mile service.

For the price we pay for these motorcycles I want to put the best in them, regardless of cost. Being air cooled is the bulk of my reasoning on this.

I am confused and I must find my way ASAP so I can move on..........................

Oil is like opinion, depending on who you ask.. Several agree (though maybe not all) to drop that syn3 stuff out of your bike. As far as what goes in, it's as much opinion as science it appears... Mobil 1 V-Twin (engine), Redline Shockproof Heavy (tranny), H-D Formula+ (primary) in my bike. Runs cool, quiet, shifts easy, good clutch.

I like the mobil 1 v twin oil in mine

Put my vote in for AMSOIL months ago but thought I'd throw this out there: The guy I buy my oil from uses AMSOIL in his competition pull tractor and he just told me that he goes an entire season without changing the oil (8 gallons!). Most of the people he competes against change their oil about 3 times per season. Claims he's never had a breakdown or mechanical issue with his tractor and that the engine is spotless when he tears it down over the winter. Says he's thinking about running it for two seasons before changing it.

Like I said, just throwing it out there...can't verify any of this.

ORIGINAL: gabhart

I have read every post on this thread and not only do I have a headache but I am confused as h3!!

My '05 Fat Boy is running Syn 3 (6200 miles) in all 3. My '07 Ultra is 2 weeks from it's 1000 mile service.

For the price we pay for these motorcycles I want to put the best in them, regardless of cost. Being air cooled is the bulk of my reasoning on this.

I am confused and I must find my way ASAP so I can move on..........................


Do as you wish with the brands of oil, but consider this, syn 3 is NOT for transmissions. You need a gear oil of your choice in there for longivity. In the primary, a NON synthetic oil is best 10/30-10/40 synthetics and clutches aren't too fond of each other . For the engine a synthetic oil will stand up better than a dino oil when the going gets HOT! Your bike, your cash, your choice here. Good luck.

ORIGINAL: Babs

Oil is like opinion, depending on who you ask.. Several agree (though maybe not all) to drop that syn3 stuff out of your bike. As far as what goes in, it's as much opinion as science it appears... Mobil 1 V-Twin (engine), Redline Shockproof Heavy (tranny), H-D Formula+ (primary) in my bike. Runs cool, quiet, shifts easy, good clutch.



There is a great combination for use in these bikes, and a smart man too;)

I know the choice is mine. I have to ask myself: Why do I only use Valvoline brand oils in my car and minivan? I don't really know! I have been using Valvoline for many years and will not switch. I am comfortable using it and have never had a failure that has been caused by bad lubrication. I guess I have not had my bikes long enough to find that same trusted comfort, so to speak.

I thought I was comfortable using the Syn 3 stuff but after reading this I have second thoughts!

well not looking at the adversments...... i use Amsoil.... use it in my turbo charged ecotech rock crawler which is always without oil pressure due to extreme angles.....it is very impressive oil and will continue to use it....

As long as it is a quality oil that meets or exceeds the manufacturers specs, it doesn't make a difference as far as I can determine.
If a person was to swear by a certain brand of oil and state that it is better than all other oils he has used in the past and someone drained and refilled his motor with brand X oil, I doubt that person could tell the difference after he stated that it ran better with his favorite brand in the motor.
Many have said that they have gotten better results with a certain brand, what results would these be? Did the crank spin faster or what. I believe in a quality oil of any kind and change it regular with a filter. Oil is oil and it is designed to minimize friction between parts. Synthetics do a better job in hi temp situations but aside from that , use a quality oil and get on with it. ;)

Furthermore, If you were to put 5 identical engines in a row and fill them with five different oils ranging from the cheapest oil to the most expensive synthetic, do you think YOU could tell the difference by listening to them?

I posted Syn 3 but may start using Mobile 1 V-Twin http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h136/bhogsum1/cooleglt.gif

HD 360 in the Twin Cam. 63k on her now. She doesn't smoke or use any oil between changes. I bought it for years from a local dealer for $1.99 a quart. I can't complain.

Pennzoil 20w-50 in the Ironhead it's whole life. 53K on her now. Zero oil use between changes. I checked the PSI a while back. 150 on one jug and 155 on the other. It's been overbored once. That was at 11k and due to me melting a piston by running it too hard with an intake leak. I can't complain.

If CITGO makes HD oil, that presents me with a whole new decision. I used to run nothing but HD oils. I will not be buying any products made by CITGO. Just my opinion. I may be a lot of things but I am an American first and foremost. SEMPER FI



"One of the USA's largest refiners, Citgo is a subsidiary of Venezuela's state-owned oil company, Petroleos de Venezuela S.A. (PDVSA). As such, it ultimately belongs to Venezuelan President Hugo Chávez, an avowedly anti-American leader who counts Fidel Castro among his closest friends and mocks President Bush as a "genocidal murderer."
http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/energy/2006-01-11-citgo-cover-usat_x.htm

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

ORIGINAL: turbo nasty

I want to say that Mobil 1 make sthe SYN 3 for HD and the slap their label on it.


Lubricants
Product H-D Part#
Manufacturer
H-D WINTER FUEL CONDITIONER 99889-91A HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FUEL ADDITIVE 99893-91A Polar Molecular
H-D FORK OIL TYPE B 99880-73 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D FORK OIL TYPE E 99884-80 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE FORK OIL (HEAVY) 99881-87 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE RACING FORK OIL (EXTRA HEAVY) 99909-93R CITGO Petroleum
H-D PRIMARY LUBRICANT 99887-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 10W-40 99816-1040 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 20W-50 99816-2050 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 50 99816-50 CITGO Petroleum
H-D MOTOR OIL, SAE 60 99816-60 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SCREAMIN' EAGLE SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE LUBRICANT 99824-03 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SEMI-SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT 99892-84 CITGO Petroleum
H-D SPORT-TRANS FLUID 99896-88 HJS of Wisconsin
DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID 99902-77 Dow-Corning
H-D WHEEL BEARING GREASE 99856-92 HJS of Wisconsin
SPECIAL PURPOSE GREASE 99857-97 HJS of Wisconsin
H-D POLY OIL 99860-81 General Polymeric

Product H-D Part#...Manufacturer
HARLEY GLAZE 99701-84 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY GLOSS 94627-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SUN WASH 94659-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY SWIRL & SCRATCH REMOVER 94655-98 Chemrite Industries
HARLEY WHEEL & TIRE CLEANER 94658-98 Chemrite Industries
H-D WINDSHIELD WATER REPELLENT 99841-01 Chemrite Industries
H-D SPRAY POLISH 99817-99 Petro-Chemical Products
HARLEY BRIGHT METAL POLISH 99725-89 Rolite Chemical
H-D BLACK CRÈME POLISH 99271-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CARE 98263-95V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER CLEANER 99274-98V Apple Polishes
H-D SUEDE & FABRIC CLEANER 99272-96V Apple Polishes
H-D LEATHER DRESSING 98261-91V Pecard Chemical

Well, then theres the counter-point
http://www.commondreams.org/views05/0516-25.htm

OK, it looks like this one sums it up best.
http://www.snopes.com/politics/gasoline/citgo.asp

No CITGO products for me.

But does CITGO really make HD oil?

Valvoline has had the contract for H-D's oil for a few years, others who had a contact with H-D are Kensoil and spectro

I am doing my 5K service and going to Mobil 1 synthetic in engine. On the synthetic comparison data in the OIL forum shows 15W50 slightly better overall than the VT 20W50 for a Harley. Having trouble finding the VT. I know that it is formulated for air cooled M/C but does it really make a difference? BTW....bike is 06 FXDLI. What a mo-chine!

Thanks

Spots Cycle, How do ya find this stuff out (who makes it)?

Not wanting to be an alarmist, and knowing that we are all strong minded people here-I personally know of 4 motors here in Salt Lake City that have had catastrophic failures-and they all had been running Royal Purple 20-50.
Yes, it does run a lot cooler than most-but have you ever checked the viscosity when that stuff has been run a couple thousand miles and it's 200 degrees? I think water is more viscous...just my 2 cents.

Also, a study is evidently circulating about Engine Oil and the Mobil 1 15w-50 seems to have gotten good results. Does anyone have the website address or a opy I could look at? Thanks in advance-

OK, why couldn't this thread have been started last night. I left this morning bought the redline heavy for the trans and royal purple for the primary and engine. Looks like I have to take the barney crap back now and get the mobil 1 v twin stuff. Good thing I logged on before I drained and changed!!!

ORIGINAL: BAM

Not wanting to be an alarmist, and knowing that we are all strong minded people here-I personally know of 4 motors here in Salt Lake City that have had catastrophic failures-and they all had been running Royal Purple 20-50.
Yes, it does run a lot cooler than most-but have you ever checked the viscosity when that stuff has been run a couple thousand miles and it's 200 degrees? I think water is more viscous...just my 2 cents.

Also, a study is evidently circulating about Engine Oil and the Mobil 1 15w-50 seems to have gotten good results. Does anyone have the website address or a opy I could look at? Thanks in advance-




I second your opinion on Royal Purple! I know of 1 engine which was blamed for the oil(Royal Purple) not holding up! I don't work for any oil company, or have any interests in advertising for any! But, I "NOW" feel, just stick with a Major name brand synthetic and you will be fine! Syn 3 to me is NOT a name brand!!!Why, play around and experiment with oils, when we know some brands are OK,Good, Great!!! Buy whatever you fell is a "GREAT" oil and move on!!!
I used to push one company over another, but not anymore!!!I want to ride, not worrying about which is better oil or not!
Just my 2 cents!

Amsoil[sm=deal.gif]

I read all the above posts which has made me change my mind from Syn 3 to Mobil 1 for my 1,000 mile service. now for the stupid and lazy question. if i go to WalMart and buy Mobil 1 how many quarts do I need for each hole and which weights?

I love amsoil it's all I've used for everything. On the plus side I do get it at cost because my Dad is an independent sales rep.

Hello all,

How about an evo engine with 24,000 miles that have run nothing but HD dino products? Yes, I have been reading these many threads on oils also.If I am like all other HD owners I know, I only want the best for my bike, because I own the best bike. My overview of the best products are Mobil 1 v-twin or AMSOIL 20w50 for crank, Mobil 1 75-90 for trans and HD primary fluid. If I switch to the Mobil 1 products, will I experience any differences? good or bad!
I would appreciate some wrenches replying. Thanks!!

Got an 07 duece - 2500 miles, When the duece turned 500 miles drop all conv. oil that came with it, put HD Syn 3 in all.. Noticed a little slip in the clutch.... Dropped all HD Syn 3 last week, put Mobil 1 V twin 20 - 50 w / Mobil 1 75 - 90 w... Noticed no problems.... I still have an issue of paying HD $16.00 for an oil filter any suggestions.....

ORIGINAL: wideglide95th
If I switch to the Mobil 1 products, will I experience any differences? good or bad!


Compared to Dyno and Syn-3, when I swapped to the M1 V-Twin, the bike just runs cooler.. and takes longer to get up to temperature. Which indicates a good thing to me, though it does take longer to warm up.. I just take it easy for a couple miles longer. That was right after the oil swap and now about 2,500 later.. exactly the same. I did a "5-quart" oil change when I did the swap and flushed out a about 3/4 quart of black gunk that isn't dropped by emptying just the oil tank.. (another topic) .. but I think that had something to do with it too but replacing ALL that used up filthy S3 with fresh M1.

:)I used mobile one 20/50 v-twin. Then i had used some lucas grease at work were my mobile 1 grease was falling in bearings the lucas x treme grease was great. I told the lucas rep i had a harley and he told me about there oil. I told him i used mobile1 and did not want to change. He said he would give me a case of 20-50 synthetic oil if i would try it. So i changed the oil installed napa oil filter 1348. Then i test drove the bike and it ran and felt like it had more power. I then check the gas milage 3 tanks of gas and looks like .5 to 1 mile to the gallon better. I install lucas 70/90 synthetic in trans bike does shift better. I will keep every one up dated lucas said i could run this oil for 12000 miles i will have it sampled at 4000 and see were i am at.That is because the way you can tell when a saleman is lieing his lips are moveing. i have been a heavy eq. mech. for 25 years and have use a lot of oil to fine out what you have send it to a indenpent lab and get it check.

Ams oil motorcycle 20/50 used it long ago
had Syn 3 did not run as good and not as cool as ams
if i had to make other choise Mobile 1
Read other Tests on Synthetic oil Royal Purple is middle of road

After 4 years and 24,000 miles on HD conventional oil I switched to Syn 3. The only difference I noticed was that it shifted better. And since I am lazy it is nice to have 1 oil for all three resevoirs!

Mobile 1 V-Twin.

Is amsoil at most parts stores?

Agree, I use the Mob I/ Redline combo w/ a K&N filter

Mobil 1 V-twin in crankcase and primary,,,Mobil1 75-90 in tranny

Amsoil
20w50 engine and primary
75w90 sever gear/tranny
07 eg classic

I have used HD360, Revtech, and VR1 Racing (valvoline) with no problems in the crankcase. I however only use diesel ratings though. From April/May to October/November I use 20w50. I have also used a 15w50 Mystick diesel rated oil that can be found rather easily. In the winter months, I use a Diesel 15w40...could be Rotella, motorcraft, Castrol...etc. Every two years, I perform the 5 quart oil change. Miles does not factor in here....it is changed about every six months anyway due to seasonal and temperature changes. The filter is changed every oil change. Wix or HD only...they work and are priced accordingly.

In the transmission...I use 80w90 GL5 gear oil. I have used many different brands and it does not matter who makes them. Just change it like you are suppose to and not go too long. I only change this once a year. Mileage does not factor in here...but 12 months does.

In the primary, I use 15w40 all year long. I do not care who makes this stuff either as long as it is diesel rated. This is not too thick nor too thin and does not contain any friction modifiers. I only change this once a year. Primary oil is only there to keep things cool.

I do not use synthetics though, unless the price is feasible to do so. If your motorcycle is ridden all year round for long distances and not short trips...then I can possibly see using synthetics which can take heat better which takes longer to burn the additives within the oil. Oil is always slippery reguardless how old it is...what problems we run into is, the additives are all used up that are used to clean the engine and during short trips...the engine never boils off condensation and contaminants in the crankcase.

I do not believe all three holes should have the same stuff either. If you have a leak somewhere, it is much easier to diagnose what is leaking. If you see gear oil onthe ground...you know exactly what is leaking (the transmission). If you see engine oil on the ground...just check your engine oil. If it is low, then add. If the crankcase is still full...then it is the primary. Imagine having the same stuff in all holes and have leak...have fun diagnosing.

I have over 50,000 miles on a 1998 Electra Glide using the above procecure.No problems whatsoever. I used the same on a 1997 Sportster and a 1999 Dyna Convertible with no ill effects with both over 80,000 miles on each.

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

I think I will stick with the M1 even though it is more costly, I like the results.


Where are the best places to buy Mob 1 V-Twin? Or do most buy on-line?

Some of the other posters say that Syn 3 test lower than other oils, I have only seen that on Amsoils test and I question that my self. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline & others are really good products, pick your medecine.

I know a ton of guys with a lot of miles on Syn 3 with no problems including myself. On my new 07 I useSyn 3 in the engine & Formula + in the other two holes, works great.Do people bash Syn 3 for a good reason or do most jump on the band wagon without real facts? just because Amsoil gives it a lower rating, makes me wonder.I am sure there will be some oils that test better or do they? can we trust all the diffrent hype out there? how much better do they really test if the truth be none?your guess is as good as mine. I am just playing Devels advocate here.

I trust theMOCO in general about specifications. They come newwith a 2 year unlimited milage warranty and a few diffrent exstended warranty options. I do not think they would recommend a specificoil that would cause them any problems due to poor quality over time that they would have to pay for, you have to give the MOCO some credit in this area.

NOTE
Below is the last paragraph or the conclusionof Motorcycle Consumer News oil investigation update from 2003 about the Harley Davidson (http://www.hdforums.com/m_1331835/tm.htm#) Syn 3 and H-D 360 oil test against several other main stream oils and this is what they had to say at the end in conclusion to the test. I tend to believe this due to no agenda being placed on the test by Motorcycle Consumer news, they only wanted to compare H-D oils to others & find out if it was the same as Citgo oil like so many say. They found it to be diffrent in a few major waysand it rated right in there with the rest over all.

MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS OIL INVESTIGATION UPDATE 2003.... CONCLUSION TO TESTBELOW

So, what is Harley Davidson oil? it seems H-D oil is pretty well formulated oil for your engine. It does test on the upper end of the viscosity scale for it's rating with the Syn3 slightly thicker than the mineral-based H-D oils; It was actually the highest vicosity tested. The TBN is among the highest tested and it contains no Molybdenum. All in all it's everything we all say we want in an oil.

Take Care all,
Bill G

ORIGINAL: danbo

Furthermore, If you were to put 5 identical engines in a row and fill them with five different oils ranging from the cheapest oil to the most expensive synthetic, do you think YOU could tell the difference by listening to them?


I challange anyone to do this with a HEUI system Diesel Engine. From plain 15w40 diesel dino oil to a real good 5w40 synthetic you can clearly tell which one is running the more expensive oil. You can also tell when the oil tests come back from Blackstone Labs.

After all this great info I read up on I went last night and purchased everything for my spring prep.

K&N Oil Filter ($12.49 in chrome) Firm believer in them (or Mobil 1 filters). Fram was on sale for $11.00, but I wouldn't use a Fram on a lawnmower.

Mobil 1 V-Twin Oil $8.95 qt (Why is this $9 a quart when Rotella 5w40 Synthetic Diesel is $12 a GALLON? Or Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Diesel is $16 a GALLON? Must be 'cause they know HD guys spend like fools)

Mobil 1 75w140 for the tranny $14.95

HD Form+ for the primary. The Syn3 was slipping, even after my clutch adj.

The dealer put Syn3 in all 3 holes when the 1000 mile service was done by the previous owner. I am now at 2600 and DIY changing all the fluids, fork oil too.

I have (1) qt. of Syn3 anyone can have for the price of a 40oz BUD, just PM me for my address and you can stop by and trade. :D

I can get the Mobil1 20/50 at WalMart. Better than 15/50?

Where can I get the Mobil1 75/90 gear lube, dealer and WallMart don't carry?

Any good quality 20/50 I change it every 5000km's 3000 miles..Mark...

I have been using Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 since the last service. It was rated good and it was on sale. I have also used HD360, Spectro, TwinPower, and Revtec as well. I have also used Mystick 15w50 a few times as it was on sale.

For the winter months, I have used 15w40 diesel rated oils. I have used Shell Rotella, Motorcraft,Citguard, Delvac, and various store brand oils. Pretty much whatever I have in stock for the tractor.

I once had a 97 Sportster that saw nothing but 15w40 diesel oil in crankcase and primary/transmission. Sold it with almost 80,000 miles on it and it never burned or leaked any oil. The current owner has over 100,000 miles and is still going strong.

Will be makeing the change from 20-50 ansoil to mobil 1 v twin....anyone else that had made this swap, have you had any problems, or do I need to do a total flush of the amsoil?

After researching this forum and many other oil testing websites that I got links to from this forum, I put Mobil 1 V-Twin in my bike Monday at 4200 miles.
The reason is more for availability over AMSOIL and Redline than any other. I found that these three oils were superior in tests to other oils. I would have put Redline 20W60 in the engine along with the Redline Shockproof that I put in my transmission if I had ordered the transmission lube but the Shockproof was given to me and I didn't have to order it.
I put Penzoil 10W40 in the primary because I think that's all it needs. This is based on researching this forum for information about primary fluids and asking a question about heat of the primary affecting the oil.
I am certain that the synthetic oil in the engine will protect my engine vetter than dinosaur oil in the Louisiana summer heat that is on its way.
I am certain that the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear lube will perform the best in my transmission over dinosaur oil. I would have no problem putting Mobil 1 gear lube in the transmission or the AMSOIL but, as I said, the Redline was given to me.

I like what I'm hearing about the Mobil 1 and keep hearing you can but this stuff at the local Wal Mart.

Question please: Does it have to say V-Twin Mobile 1, or is it the same as the auto oils? I'm only interested in the tranny lube and crankcase. I agree any good lube will work in the primary.

ORIGINAL: raym



Question please: Does it have to say V-Twin Mobile 1, or is it the same as the auto oils? I'm only interested in the tranny lube and crankcase. I agree any good lube will work in the primary.


Mobil 1 engine oil is shown as V TWIN on the bottles. The others are not . There IS a difference from the auto oils in the additive packages that are used in the V Twin oils. It's about the best IMO that you can use.

What about the transmission lube. Will it also say "V-Twin" and can I get both at Wal Mart?

Thanks

I don't think the transmission lube has V-Twin on it. Just the 20/50 engine oil.

AMSOIL

Castrol 20W50

penzoil 20/50 ..Mark..

Amsoil. It Works!!!

wow. the syn3 and amsoil poll numbers didn't surprise me, but the mobil 1 numbers did.
I would have guessed higher numbers for Redline

I'm a Redline guy.

i run royal purple (car blend 20w-50) i guess i just a dumb ass but friction is friction ,what difference does it make if its a motor cycle or a car the oil doesn't know the difference.the oil doesn't know if the motor isair or water cooled. just my thought on the oil thing .it's kind of like beer ,miller light of bud it all does the same thing .

uncle sammy

I run mobil1 15-50 car oil synthetic.. I just put Belray gear saver 85w-140 in the trans and Harley primary in.. the bike has 16,800 miles on it.. I change everything every 1000 miles and after the winter..

Use amsoil in everything. Go 3000 miles change filter add a little and go another 3000. 20W50
rockenrobert
gotta see the world, it will only take a mintue
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/1/2015052143.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4568243)

After reading these posts I went out and got Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic 20w50 Belray gear oil and Harley primary oil... The place I went too didn't have Mobil 75w90 gear oil... So Belray will have to do at 1000 miles I will dump it all and replace it again..

Just got my 1000 mile service done at the dealer and brought with me mobil 1 syn 20-50 for the motor and mobil 75w90 syn gear for the tranny let them put syn3 in the primary. The bike runs alot better with the synthetic in the motor except the dealer put to much in and I had to drain some out wtf? I thought with the new gear oil the shifting might be a little more quiet but to tell you the truth I can not tell any difference. I will be doing my own servicing from here on out.

Shell Rotella T or Chevron Delo 400 in 15w-40.

MikeyB

rotella 15w40

ive used it in all7 of the bikes ive owned with air and water cooled engines.


i havent noticed anyone who uses this and am a bit curious why.

not trying to sway anyone, but ive been a diesel mechanic on construction equipment for 14 years, and ionly use rotella in air cooled duetz diesel engines as well as all other diesels with great results. never had a failure due to oil, and these duetz engines are ran at a constant 2500-4000 rpm (depending on size of engine) for hours on end confined to an enclosed engine bay with only a belt driven fan and thier oil to keep them cool in the texas summer (ie. 95-100+ degreesF with 50-100% humidity. if an oil can take the beating a very high compression air cooled diesel engine can bring to bare, a gas engine with less than half the compression just seems chiilds play to me. my 2 cents :)

2007 FXSTB
Rotella 15w40 and pure power reuseable oil filter

Tex,
Look one post above yours. There are others that use diesel grade oils in their bikes.

MikeyB

mikeyb

yea, i saw that after the fact :) just not aplace to vote for it on the poll, thought it meant no one used it.

regards

Tex,
Also some use 15w-40 in the primary. I might have to try that next.

MikeyB

It sure would be interesting to know who manufacturers the oil Harley puts in their production engines.

GT,
I believe it's Citgo.

MikeyB

what about aeroshell, they use this stuff in aircooled airplane engines, isnt that pretty much what a harley is, gotta be good dont you think?

Aeroshell is a good oil. I assume you're talking about the Aeroshell W100 50 weight or the 15w-50 semi-synthetic?

MikeyB

I change my oil, why worry about engine sludge?,,,,,,,,

Mobil 1 15w-50 in engine and primary, Mobil 1 75w-90 in tranny.

Just dump the SYN3 and went with HD 20w59 and Formula + in the trany and Primary what.Think I will go with Mobil 1 V-twin next oil change for the motor

I haven't tried Mobil 1, but I did switch from HD Syn 3 to Amsoil 20W50, and my oil temp dropped from 250 @ 70mph, on a 95 degree day, to 225 @ 70 on a 97 deg day. I made several runs with both and the results were consistent. As for marketing, don't know anything about how they do it, don't give a rat's a$$. If it drops my oil temp 25 deg. I am using it. Besides everything I have read on the Net says it is good. We should be able to find a good independent report somewhere.
Ride Fun, Ride Safe.

86 FLHT w/ 22,000 miles on it..
I use Amsoil exclusively. Dislike of marketing strategy would not be a just reason to switch to a inferior oil. My engine temp dropped about 15 degrees in normal riding and definately notice the difference on hot days in stop and go traffic situations. Pay $20 and become a preferred customer and the 20-50 full syn is $6.90 ($9.25 sugg retail) . This year I'm going with the 20-50 in my primary also>10-40 last year. I use the SVG 75-90 in my tranny, like the way it shifts over the 20-50 in my bike originally. Using their oil filter I think the change interval is approx 8,000 miles or 1 year,whichever comes first. As a preferred customer it cost me about $11.50 (approx $15.00 sugg retail). That was the chrome model. One thing for sure, I will not use HD oil!! they make motorcycles, not oil! Go to the amsoil site and check out the data and tests and just about all the oils you guys are using out perform HD oil products. I think mobil 1 full syn for v-twins comes in second. But it is important to buy an oil designed for v-twin motors for the crankcase. You can find an Amsoil Dealer near you from their site.They also carry fork oil, etc.. Here are the independent testing results on overall performance:#1) Amsoil MCV #2) Mobil 1 V-Twin #3) BMW #4) Torco T 4SR #5) Golden Spectro 4 #6) Screaming Eagle Syn 3 #7) Golden spectro american 4 #8) Royal Purple Max Cycle #9) Motul 300V Comp #10) Bel-Ray EXS.

Sidebar>>> i remembered that a mechanic at work was an Amsoil dealer 20 yrs ago. i saw him the other day and asked if it was a flash in the pan and what oils he used in his vehicles now !! Still using Amsoil. In his newer vehicle (auto) he uses their best full syn and filter and follows the recommended change interval of 25,000 or 1 year,whichever comes first. All in all it's a personal choice, a matter of preference. Sorry about length.

I think the syn 3 numbers were so high because that is what the dealer pushes. when you pick up your bike you want to do what is "right". and most of the time you will believe what the dealer tells you. hell thier the experts right? I like this forum, i get more inputs about oilsthat have been put to the test by real bikers and thier feedback,other than the dealers one sided "company" view. keep it up.

Mobil 1 V Twin

Mobil 1 V Twin

2007 Ultra Classic
Fire Red/Black Pearl
V&H Ovals, Fuel Pak
K&N 3909 A/C Kit

ORIGINAL: TEX232

rotella 15w40

ive used it in all7 of the bikes ive owned with air and water cooled engines.


i havent noticed anyone who uses this and am a bit curious why.

not trying to sway anyone, but ive been a diesel mechanic on construction equipment for 14 years, and ionly use rotella in air cooled duetz diesel engines as well as all other diesels with great results. never had a failure due to oil, and these duetz engines are ran at a constant 2500-4000 rpm (depending on size of engine) for hours on end confined to an enclosed engine bay with only a belt driven fan and thier oil to keep them cool in the texas summer (ie. 95-100+ degreesF with 50-100% humidity. if an oil can take the beating a very high compression air cooled diesel engine can bring to bare, a gas engine with less than half the compression just seems chiilds play to me. my 2 cents :)

2007 FXSTB
Rotella 15w40 and pure power reuseable oil filter

I'm a mech too and you're right- Rotella is good stuff. I used it in the Caterpillar engine in my motorhome, I use it in the gasoline sterndrive engine in my boat, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it in my bike. In fact, I believe my Harley owner's manual mentions it's OK to use diesel engine oil if you can't find the recommended lubricant.

As for my bikes- I use Redline.

I have 2500 miles on my 07 Ultra, so I took it to our local bike mechanic for the 2500 mile service... Stealer want way too much....

Ibought the Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50, Redline Heavy Shockproof gear lube, and the MTL for the primary. I took it to our local bike mechanic to have him put it in. I got the High Brow from him. He told me that Mobile 1 will turn black real fast and is bascially crap, the Redline was some "bad stuff", it will not quite the tranny down. He said I could use Amsoil lube for that. This mechanic has been around for a long time and is highly recommended. He told me he would put anything in it I wanted, but really made me second guess myself..

I've researched on this forum about all these products. Each comes highly recommended by various folks. Since this is my first harley and I really don't want to screw it up... I really want to get it right..Maybe I'mjust being to paranoid about this?

Got any advise...

It sounds like your mechanic has his own agenda for pushing oil. My advice (if he's truly a good mechanic and you want to keep using him) would be to simply ignore his oil recommendations and have him do what you want.
Mechanics are no different than anyone else- they sometimes form opinions and promote a product or idea simply because of personal bias, misinformation, or personal gain. However, no respectable mechanic of any merit would ever say that Mobil 1 and Redline are bad oils- there are just too many cars, trucks, motorcycles, race cars, airplanes, boats, tractors, semi's, etc. on the road and too many millions of miles accumulated to support such an opinion. Indeed, that an oil turns black indicates that it's doing its job of breaking down impurities in the engine and holding them in suspension, which is exactly what it's supposed to do.

The simple truth is that your engine will run 100,000 miles or more on the cheapest no-name oil made, as long as it meets H-D's minimum specifications. There are countless Harley and BMW aircooled engines on the road with 150k miles or more that have never had anything but plain old H-D 360, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Rotella, and even store-brand dino oils.
My personal recommendation for newer Twin Cam 88 and 96 engines is to run a synthetic oil as these engines tend to run a bit hotter than past engines, and synthetic will hold up longer and lubricate better under such use. What brand you use is entirely irrelevent- if you change it at the recommended service interval of 5k miles no synthetic made will be even close to being broken down at that point. Mobil 1, Redline, H-D Syn3, Royal Purple, Golden Spectro, Motul, et.al. are all top shelf oils and will provide more than adequate protection for your engine.

Shockproof Heavy in the transmission has been a H-D staple for years. Many H-D dealers stock it on their shelves and recommend it highly. I run it in mine and would not hesitate to recommend it to others, especially if you have odd noises coming from the gearbox. However, if you're not comfortable putting Shockproof in your transmission then use H-D Formula+ as the service manual recommends. It's a fine lubricant and will work just as well as anything else in the tranny and the primary.

what do you think.i put 80/90gear lube in my trans 07 hairitage and it took the noise out of 5 gear.talked to the dealer about it thay said to remove it only becuse of warrenty only.they said there is no real harm that thay can see.

Just thought I would add my 2 cents worth.

After reading all the posts here I decided to go with the Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50 and the Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil. After making many phone calls in our area and finding none ( 1 guy could order the Mobil 1 at $11.99 / Qrt) I decided to order a case of the Mobil 1 @ $55.00 ($9.17/Qrt), a quart of the Redline @ $9.50, and a new Oil filter @ $8.95, add the$9.31 shippingand you have atotal of $82.76 from youroilshop.com without leavingmy chair.

I can't wait to wonder where that ol' "klunk" went when I shift my "Bessie" into gear!

Saddle up, rubber down, let's ride!

Mobil 1 auto 15-50
Wali-World has Mobil 1 15-50 on sale right now. I went down and bought EVERY 5 Qt/ Gallon they had. @ $19 bucks for 5 qts you do the math. $3 plus change for an outstanding synthetic oil.


Brad

question. best place to buy redline oil on line ?

I get my Redline here: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/myoilshop1.htm
They are a site sponsor and offer 10% off (20% off if you buy a case.)

Check out their motorcycle oil change kits- they're a good deal.

thanks !!

i would love to use the Mobil 1 V-twin. however for the 1000 mile service on this one, i am going to put sync 3 in, then on to Mobil

I have 34000 mile on my rdking. I have been using harley Synthettic. I am going to change to the mobil 1 V twin 20/50. Mobil was the first one to have Synthetic that I'm aware of. Does anyone know who makes or packages HD oil? JimmyZ

ORIGINAL: jimmyz

I have 34000 mile on my rdking. I have been using harley Synthettic. I am going to change to the mobil 1 V twin 20/50. Mobil was the first one to have Synthetic that I'm aware of. Does anyone know who makes or packages HD oil? JimmyZ

I believe Amsoil was the first to market synthetic, but as with anything that doesn't necessarily make it the best.

Citgo makes Syn 3 for H-D.

Thanks Lost, Back in 85 we were racing karts and running Mobil 1 because it would mix with methanol. that was my first experience with the oil. JimmyZ

Mobil 1 is definitely good stuff, as is Redline, Royal Purple, etc.

Amsoil 20W50 in the primary and Trans. (we can buy it over the counter at Canadian Tire Here in Canada)

I use Kendall GT 20W50 in the engine.

ORIGINAL: HDF Tech

This is true in a pinch, however motorcycle oils are blended for air cooled engined and have additives that car oils don't. Take a look in the DIY forum under oils for some further info.
I've actually paid to have various oils tested. I don't see enough (any) of a difference to make me go pay more for something specially marketed to the baby-boomer/dispensible income crowd.

Oil Study - Report (http://www.xlrator.com/personal/oil/)

ORIGINAL: Lost1

Citgo makes Syn 3 for H-D.
They may, but that doesn't make it Citgo oil. As with most of the oils out there, the base stocks are made to specification or purchased from a list of predetermined specs from one of only a few refiners. It's the additive packages that are unique to the brand. H-D oil does not test the same as Citgo.

I'm not even sure Citgo still has that contract but it doesn't matter much. I have a close personal friend that is an owner in an oil distribution business. They receive base stock, blend it to spec and bottle it for many brands. Saying who they do it for is a "contract killer" as he says but it was really interesting to walk around the warehouse and see how it all works.

ORIGINAL: LBussy

ORIGINAL: Lost1

Citgo makes Syn 3 for H-D.
They may, but that doesn't make it Citgo oil.


Agreed, which is why I said "Citgo makes Syn 3 for H-D."

I was thinking of putting Mobil 1 products in my bike at the first service and the dealer said my warranty would be void if I did so. Is the Syn3 the best "Harley Approved" option for Oils, at least until warranty is not an issue? Thanks.

Go read the "Dealer said warranty void" thread. Your dealer is feeding you a line about Mobil 1 voiding your warranty.
And yes, Syn 3 is a decent oil and will work fine in your bike.

As long as the oil meets H-D's specs, and as far as I know every motor oil on the shelf does, you can use it. If H-D requires specific brands of lubricants or parts to keep the warranty in effect, then they have to provide them free of charge per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

AMDSOIL!!!

I am using Valvoline 20W50 Motorcycle oil (Dino). I can pick it up at the local checker and haven't had any trouble with it. I think oil is "over thought" most of the time. I am a believer as long as regular maintenance is done, just about any oil will do. I plan on switching to Rotella in about a month for the winter, then back to Valvoline next summer.

ORIGINAL: SLC Rider

I am using Valvoline 20W50 Motorcycle oil (Dino). I can pick it up at the local checker and haven't had any trouble with it. I think oil is "over thought" most of the time. I am a believer as long as regular maintenance is done, just about any oil will do...

+1

Castrol 20w50. One of the best dino oils for the money. Science data out there to prove.[sm=smiley20.gif]

ORIGINAL: rhj529

Castrol 20w50. One of the best dino oils for the money. Science data out there to prove.[sm=smiley20.gif]


I personally know of quite a few air-cooled Harleys, BMW's, and old inline 4 cylinder Jap bikes that have well over 100k on the clock having never used anything but good ol' Castrol GTX dino.
Hard to argue with success... ;)

HD Syn 3 for me.

ok guys...please forgive my ignorance here but i AM a newby.....
why notuse the oil that HD recomends?

Both of HD's oils- the dino HD360 and the Syn3 synthetic have been tested and did well against competing oils, however, Syn 3 costs about $10 a quart at dealerships, which is more tham Mobil 1 V-Twin and Redline, both of which are better oils.
HD360 is also pricey, and there are dino oils out there that perform as well for less money.
It comes down to- you can use HD's oils and your engine should last at least 100k+ miles. Or you can use one of the other oils on the market, which will in turn get you an engine that should last at least 100k+ miles. Six of one, half dozen of another. ;)

There are better oils than HD's brand, and there are some that are worse than HD's brand. But for the most part there are no bad oils on the shelf anymore. Just pick one and change every 3000 with dino and 5000 with synthetic. You'll be fine...

Have ran HD360, Amsoil and Syn3 in the motor, and out of all of them, HD360 ran the quietest. No idea which runs the coolest, but I'm guessing it's one of the synthetics. Valve clatter can't be good though, even though Harley's make noise, it's still an engine and metal on metal is generally not a good thing. Curious to try Mobil 1, but getting disappointed by all of the synthetic hype because I have not had the results I thought. Now that "winter" is coming on (South Texas -we have winter?), am thinking about switching back to HD360 to see how it runs. Might try Mobil 1 next summer to see if it's all that...

[edit]
Changed back to dino (HD 360) last night before a long ride today. Bike ran great and was quieter than synthetic. Sticking with HD360.
[edit]

:) Have had oil changed at Stealer at 1k, and again at 2, 300k, and then I changed it at 4k myself, but I used the scavenger oil change system and put in 20-50 Castrol 4 cycle for V-twins.
Anyone use the scavenger system ? see www.roguechoppers.com for their system, which takes out about a qt of dirty oil that is left behind in your oil system. Just draining the oil and changing the filter is -not- enough.

Regards,

Mark

I just bought 3 quarts of Castrol V-twin from my Street Bob. Any bad votes for this stuff? Ive got to get my 1k service done by this weekend, and dont have time to order the Redline or Mobil 1.