Harley Davidson Oil Change Help: The Right Oil, Safety Tips, and Clean-Up

You’ve heard it said time and time again that the oil is the lifeblood of your Harley Davidson engine. Indeed, when you stop to consider that the fluid’s roles include vital lubrication, engine heat dispersal, and collection of harmful particles/ metal shavings, it starts to make sense.  The key to engine longevity is frequent oil changes. The following article will break down the oil-change process to inspire even the most mechanically inept to freshen up their Harley Davidson’s livelihood.

Step 1: Sit Idle

It’s not a bad idea to fire up the bike and let it run for a couple
minutes before beginning the process. The key word here is to warm the
engine, not to make it hot. Warming the oil will get it circulating
through the system and make it flow freer. Making the engine hot will
increase the risk of burning your skin. If in doubt, let the engine
cool before attempting the oil change.

Step 2: Brain Drain


For this task, companies have developed motorcycle change stands that
hold the bike firmly in place, hence allowing you access to the
machine’s underbelly. While we recommend using such a device for
safety reasons, the reality is that many are forced to simply conduct
their oil change with the bike leaning in its kickstand.  Should you
fall into this category, be sure to place blocks or bricks before and
behind each wheel so as to prevent the bike from rolling once you are
beneath it.

Locate the oil drain plug (at the bottom of the engine casing) and
slide an oil pan below the drain bolt. Remove the drain plug (with a
socket) and allow the engine oil to drain completely.  This is a
process best unrushed as it could take up to a half hour for the oil to
completely drain. Don’t replace the bolt until even the smallest of
trickles stops completely. Additionally, if your bike is leaned over
on its kickstand at this phase, grab it by the bars and stand it up
vertically to free up oil that has likely pooled in the reservoir’s low
side.

Once all of the oil has been drained, replace drain plug with said socket.

Step 3: Filter Fun

Dig out the old owner’s manual and locate the oil filter on your
particular bike.  A cover and several small bolts usually secure the
filter. Underneath the cover you will find a rubber o-ring (gasket)
and the filter itself.  Replace the filter then rub a little new oil on
the o-ring before reattaching the outer cover.

Step 4: Refill

Locate the oil fill plug (which is sometimes doubled as a dipstick with
which to check the oil level). Remove plug and refill the engine with
the recommended volume and type of oil as found in your bike’s owner’s
manual. If in doubt, a knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you
over the phone what type and how much oil your bike takes based on the
year and model.

Once filled to the proper level, replace oil fill plug. Check oil
level again after the bike has been warmed up — add oil as needed.

TIPS

Many automotive stores/ shops will accept the used oil at little to no cost so be sure to dispose of properly.

If you spill oil on concrete, sawdust makes for quick absorption/ easy cleanup with a broom.

Be sure to purchase oil designed for use with a wet clutch. Automotive
oil (even if it’s the recommended weight) is not designed to work with
a wet clutch (one in which the transmission is lubricated by the same
oil as the engine). Using improper type of oil will result in clutch
slippage and inadequate transmission lubrication.