I want to clarify, there is no safety or function issue with running outside the 10% rolling diameter...ONLY the ABS light pops up, and the system disabled right?

so in other words, if I can live with the light until there is hopefully one day a reflash fix, all is well?
I just don't want the bike locking up or unridable...i'm willing to deal with it now, to get the wheel set/tire combo I want.

*to add: I've also heard, just pop the fuse...if the above is true, what's the benefit to popping the fuse?

 

What wheel and tire set do you have?

 

don't have it yet, but it's gunna over a 10% difference.

21 in a 140/70 tire
18 in a 180/55 tire

why? more asking on the operation and how the system works with an error vs. if it'll work or not...

 

I have 21" 130/60/21 Dunlop on the front and with the stock specs on the rear and I have no issues or errors. The bike handles very well. The tire setup I have makes life easier when traveling and I need a tire replacement. HD always have them in stock.

 

I'm not interested in that tire at all...that sidewall is too small for my desires/tastes/riding.

I know my wheel set will be out of the ratio...period.
140/70 is it. it's decided and purpose built. I'm going with it.
I'm asking the question above specifically knowing that and if I can move forward in the interim, safety/without mechanical issue.

 

Pulling the fuse will disable the ABS system and you will go back to the standard brake system. I rode with a different setup with a 170/20/21 for about 1k miles and occasionally the front brake was hard to engage unless I engaged the rear first. Had a couple of uh oh moments, so I decided to go with the setup Hogpro recommended. One of my buddies kept that setup but went with a bigger rear wheel like you are thinking about doing and he has not complained of any issues.

 

great to hear.

please clarify...your front was hard to pull with the fuse pulled or before pulled with fault code?

 

I'm sure someone's already answered this, but is the linked braking also disabled, or just the ABS?

 

^ I believe it's one in the same.

 

The only way this makes sense to me is to get rid of the ABS entirely if you are going to be out of spec. I'd rather have two brakes that function like they should without ABS and that are not linked than a brake lever that locks up unexpectedly. I have been riding bikes without ABS and linked brakes for 20 years. My current ride is the first time I have had ABS. Being able to slow down and stop is pretty important.

So as it sits right now there really is not a best of both worlds unfortunately.