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cool- yeh it will need regular maintenance as those fine grooves and bare metal will oxidize like mad. you can use this wipe-on protectant, it seals metal and is completely invisible. it does not change the look of any finish and you'd swear nothing is on the metal.
https://www.everbritecoatings.com/ProtectaClear.htm - you only need a small container and do several light wipe on coats. it is heat resistant to 660f, does not yellow, does not fade or darken. artists use it on there metal sculptures etc. I use it on the polished bare metal parts on my Big Dog chopper, and also my stainless BBQ grill lid / body, custom copper flashing and bare steel entry gate on the house. truly excellent stuff and you just wipe it on with a typical sponge wax applicator. here's the product page- the 4oz is probably fine for your needs. if you have other metal stuff you want to use it on get the pint or quart. the stuff really goes a long way. https://www.everbritecoatings.com/ca...-only-c-7.html Rain or dew will not harm the coating as long as the coating has dried completely. The coating will dry in 30 to 60 minutes and can be exposed to rain in just hours. Before allowing water to sit for extended periods on the coated surface they say to allow 4 to 5 days for the coating to completely cure. it is better to do several very thin coats at about 60 mins apart than one or two thick coats. |
Hi LA, I just completed this (Ricor/Racetech) MOD yesterday though it will be months of Canadian winter before I get to ride the results. No matter, I'm confident the improvement is there.
There is an observation I've made which could be important regarding the fork cap nuts. There is no way these were torqued to 70 ft-lbs when I took them off and, upon their removal, I see these are in fact designed after what we call in my trade, a "high pressure plug". Anyhow, I believe the torque values, as stated in my HD Service Manual are incorrect. At best these would be torqued to 70 in-lbs IMHO. In my professional opinion, (FWIW :D), this finely threaded solid plug with "O"-ring seal typically requires, and sustains only, very little torque. The "O"-ring provides a 100% seal by simply being in place. At any rate, I simply lightly nipped these up about 1/4 turn past "seated" before torquing the pinch bolts to spec. This will hold, I'm 100% confident. Also, BO's with ABS aren't much more difficult to deal with than non-ABS bikes. The ABS sensor is incorporated into the brake side spacer and the only significant consideration is aligning (rotating) the sensor/spacer so that the indexing pin on it contacts a protrusion on the lower fork. There is an illustration showing this in the service manual. All in all an easy mod and your steps and instructions will certainly keep a guy out of trouble. I would nonetheless caution anyone against torquing those fork caps to 70 ft-lbs. I'm convinced there is a typo in the manual,, "it happens". |
Originally Posted by HKMark23
(Post 14881991)
Hi LA, I just completed this (Ricor/Racetech) MOD yesterday though it will be months of Canadian winter before I get to ride the results. No matter, I'm confident the improvement is there.
There is an observation I've made which could be important regarding the fork cap nuts. There is no way these were torqued to 70 ft-lbs when I took them off and, upon their removal, I see these are in fact designed after what we call in my trade, a "high pressure plug". Anyhow, I believe the torque values, as stated in my HD Service Manual are incorrect. At best these would be torqued to 70 in-lbs IMHO. In my professional opinion, (FWIW :D), this finely threaded solid plug with "O"-ring seal typically requires, and sustains only, very little torque. The "O"-ring provides a 100% seal by simply being in place. At any rate, I simply lightly nipped these up about 1/4 turn past "seated" before torquing the pinch bolts to spec. This will hold, I'm 100% confident. Also, BO's with ABS aren't much more difficult to deal with than non-ABS bikes. The ABS sensor is incorporated into the brake side spacer and the only significant consideration is aligning (rotating) the sensor/spacer so that the indexing pin on it contacts a protrusion on the lower fork. There is an illustration showing this in the service manual. All in all an easy mod and your steps and instructions will certainly keep a guy out of trouble. I would nonetheless caution anyone against torquing those fork caps to 70 ft-lbs. I'm convinced there is a typo in the manual,, "it happens". [[edited]] One important thing I forgot to consider (after I had my 2nd cup of coffee), so I changed my position on this and edited everything above this line- these top caps are providing a very high pressure AIR SEAL. I would not tighten them any less than 50 ft-lbs. The TQ of the cap nut is important, you have an air gap in the fork tube above the oil and that acts as part of the compression. You don't want air leaking out from the top cap nut under extreme compression of the fork. You are right though when I first took mine off they were not at 70ft-lbs for sure. I would say 40-50 range. they were still very tight but not 70 tight. Mark I'd still advise that you consider tightening them to 50. |
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
(Post 14882164)
Thanks for posting - congrats and hope you get some riding weather soon. I TQ'd mine to 60, they will TQ ok. the book range is 60-70. but I agree it is a lot more than it needs to be. I revised the page1 info to 50 along with a caveat on what the book states. the top pinch bolt is also acting as a safety fastener for the cap nut.
[[edited]] One important thing I forgot to consider (after I had my 2nd cup of coffee), so I changed my position on this and edited everything above this line- these top caps are providing a very high pressure AIR SEAL. I would not tighten them any less than 50 ft-lbs. The TQ of the cap nut is important, you have an air gap in the fork tube above the oil and that acts as part of the compression. You don't want air leaking out from the top cap nut under extreme compression of the fork. You are right though when I first took mine off they were not at 70ft-lbs for sure. I would say 40-50 range. they were still very tight but not 70 tight. Mark I'd still advise that you consider tightening them to 50. Frankly though, due to my job, I am very familiar with the humble "O"-ring and exactly how they function. When you see an "O"-ring in a system, you are in the presence of sealing greatness. Once these little suckers are placed, (not squeezed), in position within their channel, they will hold absolutely incredible amounts of pressure. The threading / tightness of what is "positioning" them has little, (nothing) to do with the seal. "O"-rings are dynamic and need to be capable of pressure induced movement/expansion within their mechanical channel in order to work. Undue squashing or mechanical deformation of an "O"-ring will often do more to compromise its integrity than not. An "O"-ring is NOT just a rubber washer as many folks may tend to think. "Scuba Divers will know an "O"-ring, held within its channel by a finger tightened yoke, seals 3000 psi with life dependent integrity". OK, I'm getting carried away :D, but I wanted to impart some of my rationale as to why the seemingly loose OEM fork cap nut made sense to me. "I saw an "O"-ring ;)". |
Originally Posted by HKMark23
(Post 14882294)
Understood bro. I've got a month or two to ponder this :D.
Frankly though, due to my job, I am very familiar with the humble "O"-ring and exactly how they function. When you see an "O"-ring in a system, you are in the presence of sealing greatness. Once these little suckers are placed, (not squeezed), in position within their channel, they will hold absolutely incredible amounts of pressure. The threading / tightness of what is "positioning" them has little, (nothing) to do with the seal. "O"-rings are dynamic and need to be capable of pressure induced movement/expansion within their mechanical channel in order to work. Undue squashing or mechanical deformation of an "O"-ring will often do more to compromise its integrity than not. An "O"-ring is NOT just a rubber washer as many folks may tend to think. "Scuba Divers will know an "O"-ring, held within its channel by a finger tightened yoke, seals 3000 psi with life dependent integrity". OK, I'm getting carried away :D, but I wanted to impart some of my rationale as to why the seemingly loose OEM fork cap nut made sense to me. "I saw an "O"-ring ;)". |
I just wanted to add that there are indeed several oring designs which rely on compressing the oring itself to a proper degree, depending on the mating connectors, mating material surfaces and the specific application- I suspect that the top fork cap nut seal may be more along those lines and require a minimum set preload. I am positive you know more about this than I, but here is a ref just so you don't think I'm coming out of left field. anyway it bears some consideration, not meant to be overly argumentative. other applications of course should not have any preload or stress on the oring, as you mentioned with scuba gear (I'm PADI certified - lived most all of my life in Hawaii, dove the great barrier reef, love it! :D).
See page 7, bullet F on preload: https://www.physics.harvard.edu/uplo...g_handbook.pdf patent relating to compressed oring applications http://www.google.com/patents/US3870322 |
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
(Post 14882422)
I just wanted to add that there are indeed several oring designs which rely on compressing the oring itself to a proper degree, depending on the mating connectors, mating material surfaces and the specific application- I suspect that the top fork cap nut seal may be more along those lines and require a minimum set preload. I am positive you know more about this than I, but here is a ref just so you don't think I'm coming out of left field. anyway it bears some consideration, not meant to be overly argumentative. other applications of course should not have any preload or stress on the oring, as you mentioned with scuba gear (I'm PADI certified - lived most all of my life in Hawaii, dove the great barrier reef, love it! :D).
See page 7, bullet F on preload: https://www.physics.harvard.edu/uplo...g_handbook.pdf patent relating to compressed oring applications http://www.google.com/patents/US3870322 No, no argument, just an idea exchange. The seeming disparity between my HD service manual and the obviously lighter than specified torque on both my new, unopened forks doesn't help matters. If you've got 60 ft-lbs on em with no ill effect that confirms there's no problem with that setting. Its all good :icon_mrgreen:. |
Yah man- for sure- and like you I noticed that mine came off with less than 60-70tq. but just for erring to the caution side I was only not wanting you to ride with mere inch-lbs on it, if it is a design that requires min amount of oring preload.
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^^ pretty cool NSR, looks very 'exile cycles'.
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