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FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

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FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

 
  #31  
Old 11-03-2015, 01:56 AM
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BTW your BO looks fantastic - nicely done
 
  #32  
Old 11-03-2015, 03:15 AM
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Thanks and for what its worth I just measured both tires the stock 240 D408 and the Metz 260 I don't know how they come up with there numbers but the Dunlop measures right at 238.5mm and the Metz at 245mm barely a 1/4 inch difference so we'll see.. Do you know the actual size of the Perelli it might be bigger than the stocker, maybe there 240 is 240?? You might have gone up in size?? and gotten an improvement?? but I know the stock tire is terrible.
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 11-03-2015 at 03:54 AM.
  #33  
Old 11-03-2015, 08:45 AM
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yeh some tire mfrs make the tire wider or narrower - there's not much merit in the "size" rating - e.g. a 240 in a given brand will be wider or narrower by several mm.

The pirelli ND rear is same width as the stock dunlop- i did not measure but put them end to end so this is just my eyeball measure. however, the "profile" of the tire is completely different. the pirelli is nice and peaked across the face whereas the dunlop is flat like a car tire across the face.
http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/mo...ht_dragon.html

See these threads they are both very good:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...o-threads.html - (this is the thread that got me started - as you can see I was at first, totally biased against the Pirelli tires since their automotive tires suck (bad). but hell I have been proven wrong with the night dragons - hands down the ultimate best handling tire for the BO. )

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...iscovered.html (my other thread when I was getting started on solving the BO braking / handling issue).

hope the 888's work out. i guess anything is going to be better than the stock dunlop tires. they really are absolutely, unquestionably, pure grade A crap.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 11-03-2015 at 08:54 AM.
  #34  
Old 11-03-2015, 10:25 AM
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LA Dog, wow yes your right the Dunlop is quite flat compared to the Metz as well so I should definitely notice a change, also I think I see an error in your instructions. You say to cut the pvc with the washer in? but wouldn't it be done the way the tech notes read? with it out so when in it makes it a little longer to preload the spring?? If someone doesn't go to the end they might not catch it and have no pre load. did I read it correctly?
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 11-03-2015 at 10:50 AM.
  #35  
Old 11-03-2015, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocker B View Post
LA Dog, wow yes your right the Dunlop is quite flat compared to the Metz as well so I should definitely notice a change, also I think I see an error in your instructions. You say to cut the pvc with the washer in? but wouldn't it be done the way the tech notes read? with it out so when in it makes it a little longer to preload the spring?? If someone doesn't go to the end they might not catch it and have no pre load. did I read it correctly?
yeh the front dunlop is like that too- so no wonder it is a pig trying to lean into a turn especially going slow. there is no consistent radius to the tires. why on earth did HD choose those tires?? lol

For the preload spacers - please see page 1 post #5 (easy summarized instructions) - if i made a mistake somewhere in the text let me know and I'll fix it - good luck you can do it!!

6. Measure and cut new preload spacer: Insert PVC pipe and let rest on top of spring without washer. With fork tube fully extended, mark cut-line on PVC exactly flush with top of fork tube. This will give just under 1" of spring preload after all is assembled with the washer added and cap nut installed.
 
  #36  
Old 11-03-2015, 10:21 PM
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OK got it, thanks...and yes your text says "drop old washer in on top of spring" I knew it was without but the next guy might not..Cams and rods are next for me, then a fork upgrade. Thanks again..
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 11-06-2015 at 10:39 PM.
  #37  
Old 11-04-2015, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocker B View Post
OK got it, thanks...and yes your text says "drop old washer in on top of spring" I knew it was without but the next guy might not..Cams and rods are next for me, then this upgrade.Thanks again, I'll let you know my results!!
Cool thanks - say you might want to consider doing the front / rear drive pulley upgrades first instead of cams. you'll get 10% more TQ from the motor and a lot faster off the line + through the gears. and it won't mess up your 6th gear freeway mileage.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post14150446

it would also lend itself better to cam upgrades. the stock BO is geared way too tall (for emissions / noise req's) on the belt pulleys and it will really shoot you in the foot even with cams. cams work best when they are matched with the right gearing. otherwise it's sort of a $$ waste.

And you'll also need to get a larger TB and injectors for cams- the stock 48mm TB and injectors barely have enough to keep up with the stock motor. the SE 500mm TB kit comes with larger injectors, also horsepower, inc makes a larger TB / injector kit.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...se-tb-kit.html
 
  #38  
Old 11-04-2015, 08:14 PM
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Hey thanks, good info there I'll check it out!! Maybe I'll do the forks first, while I'm figuring it out..
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 11-04-2015 at 08:18 PM.
  #39  
Old 11-05-2015, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocker B View Post
Hey thanks, good info there I'll check it out!! Maybe I'll do the forks first, while I'm figuring it out..

sure thing brother- I'm all about the "best bang for buck" upgrades

if you do the front and rear belt pulley swap, tune your motor to a richer mix and more aggressive advance curve (e.g. powervision tuner), it will be about the same result as adding upgraded cams.

the reason is: our bikes from the factory are extra tame with super lean "epa friendly" fuel mix (seriously). and, the spark advance is purposefully tamed in key areas that give you good power off the line. and, the throttle body / fuel injectors are small so they barely support what's there. no way will they adequately support adding higher lift agressive cams. Comparatively, the touring 103's have a LARGER 50mm TB and larger injectors. same motor, more power though. plus, the new 2016 BO's (finally) get the same 50mm / larger injector upgrade. about freaking time, no?

lastly, the belt pulley gearing is way too tall. ridiculously tall. this is again to satisfy the epa and federal noise compliance laws- and probably some other lame laws that mfr's must adhere to.

so- by going with a tuner (powervision), good exhaust (you have already), a good tune file (I have a number of them I can send you), and swap the belt pulleys to improve your final drive ratio, you'll pretty much crap with how much faster the bike is. and all that with minimal expense.

from there on out- do your cams PLUS larger 50mm TB / injectors, maybe some headwork, and you'll have a beast. But you have to "Fix the foundation" first (air/fuel, spark advance, drive ratio) otherwise just slapping in cams isn't going to give you the return you thought.

Oh and yeh go ahead and do the forks as soon as possible. that is totally independent of anything else and will be a very good, noticeable safety and performance upgrade. I can't say enough about how much of a huge diff it makes
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 11-05-2015 at 12:05 AM.
  #40  
Old 11-05-2015, 12:31 AM
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More stuff- you want to buy THESE front brake pads. they stop on a dime cold or hot. the stock front disc and caliper are great, but the stock pads suck. these are HH rated, best bite you can get. you'll notice the diff in braking and it's a cheap upgrade that works well.

Google for: EBC HH Sintered Pads FA457HH

the rear pads are fine, don't mess with them / stock pads are good.

here's some other info that should help:

upgrade pulley parts needed:

Sportster 1200 rear belt pulley and bolts:
2011 XL1200 pulley PN 40444-07 Retail $197 - This has the machine finish detail on the inner part of outer rim with the black dots. Sportster bolts are 7/16 - 14 x 1-3/4" PN 3899 hex bolt with lock patch $1 each - you do need these shorter bolts so buy them. the stock breakout bolts won't work. Never re-use pulley bolts, they are a one-time-use item. when you torque them to spec they stretch a bit.

Front final drive pulley: 30 Tooth Tans Sprocket
2011 Tri Glide Trans Sprocket is P/N 83595-11 $63, discount avg. prices HD-83595-11
The 30 tooth pulley is 12010227 from Drag Specialties (Andrews pulley = higher price).

Primary complete gasket kits needed:
Inner kit - Harley Davidson 25700226 GASKET KIT, INNER PRIMARY $43 avg price
Outer kit - JAMES GASKETS, INC. JGI-60547-06-KF GASKET KIT PRIMARY COVER $50 avg price

You can use your same 133T belt if you do both the 30T front and 68T rear. no problem. If you only do the rear pulley upgrade, you can still use your same belt.
labor for installing the front primary drive pulley is going to be a couple hundred, maybe $250, if you have a shop do it. the rear belt pulley is a total "DIY", not hard at all.

By doing both pulleys you will get a 9.9% reduction in final drive ratio- ideal- this will give noticeable results. you'll need to re-calibrate your speedometer but that is easy to do with a powervision tuner. and I have these corrections already in my powervision tune files that I can give you.

The RPM's with a 30T front and 68T rear in 6th are as follows (9.899% lower gearing than stock):

60mph 2420
65mph 2621
70mph 2823
75mph 3025
80mph 3226
85mph 3428
90mph 3630


Adding cams / Mild engine build: Shoot for 185-190 cranking pressure (CCP). Wiseco 9.5:1 pistons, a 0.040-inch-thick head gasket (Cometic or Harley SE) and the Harley 204 cam with a 4-degree-advance cam sprocket. Or, any other decent early intake close cam at 30 degrees.
An engine with the above components can produce 90+ pounds-feet of torque at 2,500 rpm. If you go with a later close cam like nearing 40 or above, it will push your peak torque higher up in the rpm band to say 3500 and that is getting pretty lame for a town bike- you want the tq to come on early and strong, then as rpms build the hp builds as well and keeps you going. choosing the right cam and understanding how cams work (dynamic compression vs static compression) is everything.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 11-05-2015 at 12:37 AM.

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