FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips
#52
You may want to ask this in the main Breakout thread, you'll get more help there. I've seen guys put the CVO Breakout handlebars on, they are higher and more pullback.
You may be able to just buy some riser spacers and longer bolts- check ebay - the riser spacers go between the base of your current riser and the triple tree- they come in 1", 2" and longer lengths and some are even slightly angled.
If you want to fix this in a more stealthy manner, have your seat re-shaped by a seat shop. they can cut new foam so you sit slightly higher and slightly closer. it will accomplish the same thing as modifying your risers / bars, but is practically invisible.
You may be able to just buy some riser spacers and longer bolts- check ebay - the riser spacers go between the base of your current riser and the triple tree- they come in 1", 2" and longer lengths and some are even slightly angled.
If you want to fix this in a more stealthy manner, have your seat re-shaped by a seat shop. they can cut new foam so you sit slightly higher and slightly closer. it will accomplish the same thing as modifying your risers / bars, but is practically invisible.
#54
Another DIY if anyone is interested in more stealthy front turn signals. inexpensive and good results
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post14685152
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post14685152
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SXR (02-03-2024)
#55
Off top of my head it would be about a 7.7% gain in TQ / ratio reduction. the hard part would be actually finding a 70t that fits the Breakout wheel. the belt *should* still work, but only way to know for sure is to try it. It would be a close call. I think it would be easier to do a 70t with a 30t front- that would be a hoot at almost 13%.
If you did the full enchilada and 30t front / 68t rear that gets you almost 10% and places the ratios back to the good ol' days before HD had to "tame" the ratios to meet fed and state req's. If you look at belt sprockets and final drive ratios on all HD bikes before say 1995 they were all geared much quicker. Any of the newer HD bikes will benefit from this upgrade. The bagger guys figured it out first which is where I got most of my intel. another member here from overseas had already done this to his BO and shared the correct rear sprocket P/N.
If you did the full enchilada and 30t front / 68t rear that gets you almost 10% and places the ratios back to the good ol' days before HD had to "tame" the ratios to meet fed and state req's. If you look at belt sprockets and final drive ratios on all HD bikes before say 1995 they were all geared much quicker. Any of the newer HD bikes will benefit from this upgrade. The bagger guys figured it out first which is where I got most of my intel. another member here from overseas had already done this to his BO and shared the correct rear sprocket P/N.
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SXR (02-03-2024)
#56
so is it hard to find a 68t aftermarket like rsd/ness?...figured you could get them in almost any tooth you want..you said the bo that just replacing the back pulley to 68t makes a pretty big difference w/o changing belt or front pulley and still works good for highway as well?...thanks
Last edited by Rocker B; 01-13-2016 at 04:38 PM.
#57
Rza.. there might be more? but I've only found Ness in 70t and I think 1 chrome RSD 68t..I did find these, look nice, styles that will work with a lot of wheels, and available 65t-72t!!! http://www.southern-mc.com/puandsp.html I was thinking of running a 68t but if change to a 30t up front later, I would want to go to a 70t and would have to buy another pulley...waiting to see how the 30-70 combo works out for LA Dog!!
#58
so I'll get a 70t pulley and wonder why I didn't go 30/70 in the first place!!
Last edited by Rocker B; 01-13-2016 at 06:17 PM.
#59
raza - rocker- From what I've found so far, any rear pulley that has a hub hole ID of 2.2 (2000 and up all bikes except touring 2009-up that use cush drive) and a pulley belt width of 1" or 1-1/8" (many bikes from 2000-up) can potentially work. The only real difference I am seeing is the right offset of the pulley and the length of the bolts needed to fasten it to the wheel.
All bolts are 7/16" x 14 thread (coarse thread) of varying length from 1.5" up to 2.25" long, grade 8 in strength. the five hole bolt pattern is the same on all these bikes.
The only key requirement is that you must have 1.25" of bolt length extending into the wheel for fastening. So if your pulley thickness at the bolt hole is say 1/2" and you also use a 1/4" spacer for offset, then you need a set of bolts 2" long.
For example, the 70t Arlen Ness billet pulley I just bought for a 2004-2004 FLHT early touring bike fits my stock breakout wheel, hub, bolt pattern no problem. just needed to space it leftward 1/4" with a plain jane wheel spacer. Got five new bolts for it from ebay as well, 7/16" 14 x 1 3/4".
1/2" of the bolt is taken up by the Ness pulley and the 1/4" spacer. 1.25" will fasten into the wheel hub.
It seems very easy to determine the spacers you need by simply laying your wheel flat with the pulley facing up (maybe on a pair of 2x4's with a towel over them so you don't mess up your rotor).
lay a straight piece of something on your pulley like a 24" plastic level or 1"x1" trim wood, about 24" long so it extends wider than the wheel and tire.
use a tape measure to measure from the ground up to the bottom edge of the straight piece you laid on top of the pulley. let's say that is 14"
Now remove the stock pulley from the wheel and set the new pulley onto your wheel hub, make sure it is sitting flat, put the stright piece of whatever across the pulley and measure again from ground up to bottom edge of straight piece. lets say that is 11-3/4". your offset difference will be + 1/4" or .250"
In my case the Ness pulley sat 1/4" lower in height than the stock pulley. So I got the 1/4" spacer (.250") to make up the height difference, and got bolts that were 1/4" longer. There are a ton of spacers on ebay for 2000-up HD in all thicknesses imaginable, and cheap.
The pulley, and any spacers for the pulley do not interfere with the rear axle or the axle spacers so there is no issue with that.
I'm waiting on my spacers and bolts to show up- looks like mon / tues before I see them.
I checked out Southern MC and I don't see why they could not make a correct 68 or 70 pulley for any bike. Seems like nice products, not too bad on pricing. Keep in mind that Ness, PM, Xtreme Machine, RSD pulleys are in the $500-600 range.
Absolutely no one should be worried whatsoever about this upgrade "messing with freeway riding" - that is a completely outlandish worry. Even going from 32/66 stock to 30/70, I will only increase my ratios by 13% across the board. that means in 6th doing say 70mph I will be at 2880 rpm instead of 2550 rpm. 2550 rpm in 6th is stupid too low, it is lugging the bike anyway if you try to roll on. that is why most guys feel that 6th is useless - And WHY do you think HD tells you to NOT use 6th during break in?? Hmm!!! Our bikes are coming geared way too tall from the factory and HD did not do it to benefit you, the rider. It was done to meet laws, regulation and restrictions. Not their fault, that's just the way it is- but you, the rider, need to be informed.
All you'll be doing with a 32/68 (6%), 30/68 (9.8%) or 30/70 (13%) upgrade is greatly improving the ride-ability of the bike.
All bolts are 7/16" x 14 thread (coarse thread) of varying length from 1.5" up to 2.25" long, grade 8 in strength. the five hole bolt pattern is the same on all these bikes.
The only key requirement is that you must have 1.25" of bolt length extending into the wheel for fastening. So if your pulley thickness at the bolt hole is say 1/2" and you also use a 1/4" spacer for offset, then you need a set of bolts 2" long.
For example, the 70t Arlen Ness billet pulley I just bought for a 2004-2004 FLHT early touring bike fits my stock breakout wheel, hub, bolt pattern no problem. just needed to space it leftward 1/4" with a plain jane wheel spacer. Got five new bolts for it from ebay as well, 7/16" 14 x 1 3/4".
1/2" of the bolt is taken up by the Ness pulley and the 1/4" spacer. 1.25" will fasten into the wheel hub.
It seems very easy to determine the spacers you need by simply laying your wheel flat with the pulley facing up (maybe on a pair of 2x4's with a towel over them so you don't mess up your rotor).
lay a straight piece of something on your pulley like a 24" plastic level or 1"x1" trim wood, about 24" long so it extends wider than the wheel and tire.
use a tape measure to measure from the ground up to the bottom edge of the straight piece you laid on top of the pulley. let's say that is 14"
Now remove the stock pulley from the wheel and set the new pulley onto your wheel hub, make sure it is sitting flat, put the stright piece of whatever across the pulley and measure again from ground up to bottom edge of straight piece. lets say that is 11-3/4". your offset difference will be + 1/4" or .250"
In my case the Ness pulley sat 1/4" lower in height than the stock pulley. So I got the 1/4" spacer (.250") to make up the height difference, and got bolts that were 1/4" longer. There are a ton of spacers on ebay for 2000-up HD in all thicknesses imaginable, and cheap.
The pulley, and any spacers for the pulley do not interfere with the rear axle or the axle spacers so there is no issue with that.
I'm waiting on my spacers and bolts to show up- looks like mon / tues before I see them.
I checked out Southern MC and I don't see why they could not make a correct 68 or 70 pulley for any bike. Seems like nice products, not too bad on pricing. Keep in mind that Ness, PM, Xtreme Machine, RSD pulleys are in the $500-600 range.
Absolutely no one should be worried whatsoever about this upgrade "messing with freeway riding" - that is a completely outlandish worry. Even going from 32/66 stock to 30/70, I will only increase my ratios by 13% across the board. that means in 6th doing say 70mph I will be at 2880 rpm instead of 2550 rpm. 2550 rpm in 6th is stupid too low, it is lugging the bike anyway if you try to roll on. that is why most guys feel that 6th is useless - And WHY do you think HD tells you to NOT use 6th during break in?? Hmm!!! Our bikes are coming geared way too tall from the factory and HD did not do it to benefit you, the rider. It was done to meet laws, regulation and restrictions. Not their fault, that's just the way it is- but you, the rider, need to be informed.
All you'll be doing with a 32/68 (6%), 30/68 (9.8%) or 30/70 (13%) upgrade is greatly improving the ride-ability of the bike.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 01-13-2016 at 06:43 PM.
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SXR (02-03-2024)
#60
Your rear drive overall ratios are (approximately this is off top of my head):
32/66 = 2.79 (stock)
32/68 = 2.875
30/68 = 3.06
30/70 = 3.15
All of the above combos will use your same 133t stock belt.
If you do the "Rivera Primo Game Changer" motor sprocket change (32 vs the stock 34), you end up with a overall drive ratio of 2.96, about the same as doing the 32/68 combo.
32/66 = 2.79 (stock)
32/68 = 2.875
30/68 = 3.06
30/70 = 3.15
All of the above combos will use your same 133t stock belt.
If you do the "Rivera Primo Game Changer" motor sprocket change (32 vs the stock 34), you end up with a overall drive ratio of 2.96, about the same as doing the 32/68 combo.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 01-13-2016 at 06:45 PM.
The following users liked this post:
SXR (02-03-2024)