FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips
#61
01-13-2016, 06:32 PM
oh and in case you're wondering i got the brand new Ness pulley of fleabay for $100 shipped (say whuuut!!!) . That is the ONLY reason I went for it instead of a beater stock pulley for testing. If it doesn't work, someone will buy it back off me at some point for what I paid. or I'll make a nice ash tray. whatever.. ;p
#62
01-13-2016, 08:06 PM
raza - rocker- From what I've found so far, any rear pulley that has a hub hole ID of 2.2 (2000 and up all bikes except touring 2009-up that use cush drive) and a pulley belt width of 1" or 1-1/8" (many bikes from 2000-up) can potentially work. The only real difference I am seeing is the right offset of the pulley and the length of the bolts needed to fasten it to the wheel.
All bolts are 7/16" x 14 thread (coarse thread) of varying length from 1.5" up to 2.25" long, grade 8 in strength. the five hole bolt pattern is the same on all these bikes.
The only key requirement is that you must have 1.25" of bolt length extending into the wheel for fastening. So if your pulley thickness at the bolt hole is say 1/2" and you also use a 1/4" spacer for offset, then you need a set of bolts 2" long.
For example, the 70t Arlen Ness billet pulley I just bought for a 2004-2004 FLHT early touring bike fits my stock breakout wheel, hub, bolt pattern no problem. just needed to space it leftward 1/4" with a plain jane wheel spacer. Got five new bolts for it from ebay as well, 7/16" 14 x 1 3/4".
1/2" of the bolt is taken up by the Ness pulley and the 1/4" spacer. 1.25" will fasten into the wheel hub.
It seems very easy to determine the spacers you need by simply laying your wheel flat with the pulley facing up (maybe on a pair of 2x4's with a towel over them so you don't mess up your rotor).
lay a straight piece of something on your pulley like a 24" plastic level or 1"x1" trim wood, about 24" long so it extends wider than the wheel and tire.
use a tape measure to measure from the ground up to the bottom edge of the straight piece you laid on top of the pulley. let's say that is 14"
Now remove the stock pulley from the wheel and set the new pulley onto your wheel hub, make sure it is sitting flat, put the stright piece of whatever across the pulley and measure again from ground up to bottom edge of straight piece. lets say that is 11-3/4". your offset difference will be + 1/4" or .250"
In my case the Ness pulley sat 1/4" lower in height than the stock pulley. So I got the 1/4" spacer (.250") to make up the height difference, and got bolts that were 1/4" longer. There are a ton of spacers on ebay for 2000-up HD in all thicknesses imaginable, and cheap.
The pulley, and any spacers for the pulley do not interfere with the rear axle or the axle spacers so there is no issue with that.
I'm waiting on my spacers and bolts to show up- looks like mon / tues before I see them.
I checked out Southern MC and I don't see why they could not make a correct 68 or 70 pulley for any bike. Seems like nice products, not too bad on pricing. Keep in mind that Ness, PM, Xtreme Machine, RSD pulleys are in the $500-600 range.
Absolutely no one should be worried whatsoever about this upgrade "messing with freeway riding" - that is a completely outlandish worry. Even going from 32/66 stock to 30/70, I will only increase my ratios by 13% across the board. that means in 6th doing say 70mph I will be at 2880 rpm instead of 2550 rpm. 2550 rpm in 6th is stupid too low, it is lugging the bike anyway if you try to roll on. that is why most guys feel that 6th is useless - And WHY do you think HD tells you to NOT use 6th during break in?? Hmm!!! Our bikes are coming geared way too tall from the factory and HD did not do it to benefit you, the rider. It was done to meet laws, regulation and restrictions. Not their fault, that's just the way it is- but you, the rider, need to be informed.
All you'll be doing with a 32/68 (6%), 30/68 (9.8%) or 30/70 (13%) upgrade is greatly improving the ride-ability of the bike.
All bolts are 7/16" x 14 thread (coarse thread) of varying length from 1.5" up to 2.25" long, grade 8 in strength. the five hole bolt pattern is the same on all these bikes.
The only key requirement is that you must have 1.25" of bolt length extending into the wheel for fastening. So if your pulley thickness at the bolt hole is say 1/2" and you also use a 1/4" spacer for offset, then you need a set of bolts 2" long.
For example, the 70t Arlen Ness billet pulley I just bought for a 2004-2004 FLHT early touring bike fits my stock breakout wheel, hub, bolt pattern no problem. just needed to space it leftward 1/4" with a plain jane wheel spacer. Got five new bolts for it from ebay as well, 7/16" 14 x 1 3/4".
1/2" of the bolt is taken up by the Ness pulley and the 1/4" spacer. 1.25" will fasten into the wheel hub.
It seems very easy to determine the spacers you need by simply laying your wheel flat with the pulley facing up (maybe on a pair of 2x4's with a towel over them so you don't mess up your rotor).
lay a straight piece of something on your pulley like a 24" plastic level or 1"x1" trim wood, about 24" long so it extends wider than the wheel and tire.
use a tape measure to measure from the ground up to the bottom edge of the straight piece you laid on top of the pulley. let's say that is 14"
Now remove the stock pulley from the wheel and set the new pulley onto your wheel hub, make sure it is sitting flat, put the stright piece of whatever across the pulley and measure again from ground up to bottom edge of straight piece. lets say that is 11-3/4". your offset difference will be + 1/4" or .250"
In my case the Ness pulley sat 1/4" lower in height than the stock pulley. So I got the 1/4" spacer (.250") to make up the height difference, and got bolts that were 1/4" longer. There are a ton of spacers on ebay for 2000-up HD in all thicknesses imaginable, and cheap.
The pulley, and any spacers for the pulley do not interfere with the rear axle or the axle spacers so there is no issue with that.
I'm waiting on my spacers and bolts to show up- looks like mon / tues before I see them.
I checked out Southern MC and I don't see why they could not make a correct 68 or 70 pulley for any bike. Seems like nice products, not too bad on pricing. Keep in mind that Ness, PM, Xtreme Machine, RSD pulleys are in the $500-600 range.
Absolutely no one should be worried whatsoever about this upgrade "messing with freeway riding" - that is a completely outlandish worry. Even going from 32/66 stock to 30/70, I will only increase my ratios by 13% across the board. that means in 6th doing say 70mph I will be at 2880 rpm instead of 2550 rpm. 2550 rpm in 6th is stupid too low, it is lugging the bike anyway if you try to roll on. that is why most guys feel that 6th is useless - And WHY do you think HD tells you to NOT use 6th during break in?? Hmm!!! Our bikes are coming geared way too tall from the factory and HD did not do it to benefit you, the rider. It was done to meet laws, regulation and restrictions. Not their fault, that's just the way it is- but you, the rider, need to be informed.
All you'll be doing with a 32/68 (6%), 30/68 (9.8%) or 30/70 (13%) upgrade is greatly improving the ride-ability of the bike.
Last edited by Rocker B; 01-13-2016 at 08:20 PM.
#63
01-13-2016, 08:39 PM
Rocker- to me this upgrade is a no-brainer. look at it this way, you do say 30/68 and it gives you an almost 10% direct increase in TQ to the rear wheel. so going 30/70, that's 13% TQ increase.
Cheap performance upgrade. big bang for buck. plus you'll get way more out of a future cam upgrade since the ratio increase moves your peak hp/tq bands more in line with where typical mild performance cams work best.
anyway yeh I'm hating the wait on parts to get this 70 fitted with the stock belt. keep fingers crossed.
Cheap performance upgrade. big bang for buck. plus you'll get way more out of a future cam upgrade since the ratio increase moves your peak hp/tq bands more in line with where typical mild performance cams work best.
anyway yeh I'm hating the wait on parts to get this 70 fitted with the stock belt. keep fingers crossed.
#64
01-20-2016, 10:14 AM
If any of you are looking to upgrade your rear belt pulleys to 32/68, 30/68, or even 30/70, I have put together all of the info / data / pics here. these upgrade combos will all work with the stock 133t belt. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...p-to-13-a.html
#65
01-27-2016, 12:33 AM
Hey LA, didn't want to continue hijacking the rear suspension thread for talking about the front suspension upgrade.
The Ricor intiminators are the 49mm ones to be found on the ricor website under "Street Bike > Harley-Davidson > Dyna (2006 - Current)" with Product Code: 049-20-1001?
And is there any point in filling in the additional options like riding style and bike model?
The Ricor intiminators are the 49mm ones to be found on the ricor website under "Street Bike > Harley-Davidson > Dyna (2006 - Current)" with Product Code: 049-20-1001?
And is there any point in filling in the additional options like riding style and bike model?
#66
01-27-2016, 05:51 AM
EagleRay- Good question, I wondered same thing when I first visited the website- Wasn't sure because of the Dyna listing so called them to order.
Dyna piece is the correct part so no worries there- On the website order form put your model of bike (2014 FXSB), total ride weight (bike 700lbs + your weight), mostly aggressive riding or mostly freeway cruising, or equal combo of both. those small notes just help them set the initial valving.
Dyna piece is the correct part so no worries there- On the website order form put your model of bike (2014 FXSB), total ride weight (bike 700lbs + your weight), mostly aggressive riding or mostly freeway cruising, or equal combo of both. those small notes just help them set the initial valving.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 01-27-2016 at 05:54 AM.
#67
01-27-2016, 06:28 AM
EagleRay- Good question, I wondered same thing when I first visited the website- Wasn't sure because of the Dyna listing so called them to order.
Dyna piece is the correct part so no worries there- On the website order form put your model of bike (2014 FXSB), total ride weight (bike 700lbs + your weight), mostly aggressive riding or mostly freeway cruising, or equal combo of both. those small notes just help them set the initial valving.
Dyna piece is the correct part so no worries there- On the website order form put your model of bike (2014 FXSB), total ride weight (bike 700lbs + your weight), mostly aggressive riding or mostly freeway cruising, or equal combo of both. those small notes just help them set the initial valving.
#68
01-27-2016, 06:48 AM
Good luck with the upgrades - if you do end up with the progressives and ricors installed will be really good to see your impressions and results.
You saw the "shop instructions" post on page 1 of the sticky right? That set of step by step info should make it easier for the shop and eliminate guesswork. You'll be using the Progressive brand springs but the process will be the same. only differences might be the amount of overall fork oil fill and the length of the new preload spacers. but everything else is same / same.
You saw the "shop instructions" post on page 1 of the sticky right? That set of step by step info should make it easier for the shop and eliminate guesswork. You'll be using the Progressive brand springs but the process will be the same. only differences might be the amount of overall fork oil fill and the length of the new preload spacers. but everything else is same / same.
#69
02-16-2016, 03:05 AM
#70
02-16-2016, 06:26 AM
Hi folks!
Anyone its experiencing weak performance braking??
May be Im use to more powerful front brakes but I feel that I need more bite.
When ever Im hard on the brakes, I get and awful noise due to heat.
Any aftermarket oversize rotor and mount that you are aware??
Thx!
Anyone its experiencing weak performance braking??
May be Im use to more powerful front brakes but I feel that I need more bite.
When ever Im hard on the brakes, I get and awful noise due to heat.
Any aftermarket oversize rotor and mount that you are aware??
Thx!
get a set of EBC HH+ rated pads for front. rears leave them with the stock pads. break in the new EBC front pads properly and you'll notice much more bite hot or cold, and less dust.
FRONT BRAKE HH PADS: EBC HH Sintered Pads FA457HH
2008-2015 Softail / Dyna
they should still fit 2016 softail/dyna but double check.