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FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

2018+ Softail Models Breakout

FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

Old 04-06-2015, 11:39 AM
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Post FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

Information below, last updated April 2016---------------------------
This is a place to consolidate all of the info I have posted in a few other threads on upgrading the FXSB Breakout front fork springs / suspension, tires, and front brake pad. DIY tips, part numbers, and information I received from vendors while researching this is below. Also want to thank members JimGnitecki and 24V for good info, advice and feedback. This is IMO the #1 mod for this bike as it makes a massive improvement to how the bike handles, brakes and rides. Night and day.

Original links to my posts on this topic in the "Everything Breakout thread", before I consolidated everything here. Tires, brake pads, fork suspension parts, etc. Starts midway down page 234 and onto page 235. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...hread-234.html - but the below info on this page is much more complete and should be used as the guide.

My goal is to provide an easy upgrade path for anyone else looking to improve the handling, ride, braking and traction of the Breakout- Because frankly, there is NOTHING online specifically for the Breakout in regards to improving the overly soft, nose-divey fork suspension. For the fork spring / damper parts I mention below, these vendors do not actually list fitment for FXSB on their websites, but these parts drop right in and work excellent.

>Post #2 has part numbers, tools needed, info on removal of rear and front wheels, and removal of fork tubes
>Post #3 has instructions on installing the new springs and dampers
>Post #4 has post installation impressions / results
>Post #5 has a consolidated "step by step install guide" for the fork springs and dampers upgrade that you can print and give to your mechanic. it is short / to the point.

**This is not a difficult DIY- Anyone with moderate mechanical skills can do the fork spring and damper upgrade with a motorcycle jack and hand tools in a few hours. Once you know what parts to get and the basic steps, tools involved, it's very straight forward. E.G., if you are completely comfortable with changing your own oil, brake pads, belt, pulling the gas tank, changing bars / controls / risers, pipes / intake, (moderate stuff like that), you can do this yourself.

***For those of you who rely on your local wrench or the dealer for all work, I have provided "tech instructions" you can print and give to your mechanic with short, exact install steps. See post #5 below.

This relatively low cost combination of upgrades made a huge difference in how the Breakout feels, rides, turns and stops- Much more than I expected, very very pleased. IMHO this is one of the most significant beneficial upgrades that can be done to the FXSB, in addition to getting rid of the stock Dunlop tires.

Here is the summary (part numbers are in second post):

>>Race Tech 1.0kg Springs: $129
>>Ricor Intiminator Dampers: $179
>>5w fork oil: $40 (4 16oz bottles, Maximma or Amsoil is good- You'll need 25.6oz of 5w oil per fork tube)
**** April 2016- Please note that some Breakout owners calling Ricor have been advised to use 10w oil in the forks with the dampers. This is INCORRECT, and you should only use 5w fork oil. This was again confirmed by Brian at Ricor, who has now moved over to the engineering side of the operations and is not much on the phones anymore.
>>Couple hours DIY to install. No drilling of stock dampers or dis-assembly of fork lowers required. You do have to remove the fork tubes from the trees but it's not hard at all. I've listed the socket / tool sizes needed in my second post.

>>Pirelli Night Dragon Tires Front and Rear: $330 (roughly, it's about $190 for the rear and $140 for the front)
>>Mount / balance tires (assuming U removed the wheels yourself): $50 (Glendale HD dealer charged me $25 per wheel, not bad). If you have the dealer remove your wheels the cost is about $170 (labor to remove / replace wheels on top of mount / balance cost).

Front Brake:
>>EBC HH Sintered Pads FA457HH 2008-2015 Softail / Dyna, $27

Fork Boot Gaiter (optional, this is for looks only):
>>Biker's Choice brand, short, for 49mm Dyna, roughly $25

Part numbers, steps, tools needed, etc will be in the second post. Anything I add or change in ref to brakes, suspension, tires I will post in this thread. As a side note, my Breakout is a 2013, non-ABS, non-CVO. ABS and CVO guys this is all still very relevant, you'll benefit just as much. I'm not sure if your front brake caliper will require a different pad part number than the one I have listed below so be sure to double check.

Let's start off with some pics after the upgrade was completed!

New tires and lower fork boot gaiters installed, I also wrapped the upper fork tubes with 3M 1080 Matte Carbon Fiber.

The new 120/70/21 front tire looks as good as the factory 130 Dunlop, and it sure as heck handles better. No more flop on turns.


Last edited by LA_Dog; 04-02-2016 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:19 PM
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Post Harley Breakout FXSB Upgrade Front forks with Race Tech Springs & Ricor Intiminators

This post has part numbers, tool sizes, and info on removal / installation of the rear wheel / front wheel / fork tubes.
My next post after this one (#3) will outline specifics on installing the Race Tech springs and Ricor Intiminator dampers.

**This is a basic set of DIY instructions. I am mainly outlining the steps involved and any potential "gotchas" to look out for, tool sizes for bits / sockets and suggested TQ values, to help with upgrading your front fork springs, tires and front brake pad on the Breakout. Those with ABS may find some slight differences with wheel removal due to the ABS sensors- It's the same process but take extra care with the wheel sensors.

**I would strongly encourage having a copy of the HD Softail service manual on hand - it always helps - Here is a complete online copy you can view as needed, and it includes notes for the 2013/2014 FXSB: https://www.scribd.com/doc/229588119...Service-Manual - As you go through my instructions below, if something is not clear you can reference that section of the manual for additional detail and instruction.

** If you plan on removing both wheels at the same time, be sure you have a STABLE motorcycle jack that can balance the weight and not rock when you pull wheels etc. Be safe. I have two of these flat jacks and they work excellent used side by side under the bike, and do not creep down. very well made units. plus they store real easy too.
Drag Specialties Center Jack - Standard 4110-0048 - Web reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Drag-Specialties-Center-Jack-4110-0048/dp/B005EWJ39S/ http://www.amazon.com/Drag-Specialties-Center-Jack-4110-0048/dp/B005EWJ39S/
- you can find them on sale for about $100 each - don't buy the cheap ones they strip out the mechnism and can fall!


HD Factory Wheel Sizes:
Rear Wheel: 18" x 8.00"
Front Wheel: 3.5" x 21"

Pirelli Night Dragon Tires for FXSB Breakout:
R- Pirelli Night Dragon 240/40-18 - Tire weight 17.82 lbs
F- Pirelli Night Dragon 120/70/21 - Tire weight 11.62 lbs (Diameter difference vs the OE Dunlop is 1%, minor).

I bought my tires at www.motorcycle-superstore.com - they will price match anyone and ship fast. they are a good place to shop. the SKU#'s below are theirs but you can use this as a cross reference when shopping around online
Pirelli Night Dragon Front Tire
Color- Black, Size- 120/70-21 TL
SKU#394131 $135.99

Pirelli Night Dragon Rear Tire
Color- Black, Size- 240/40VR-18
SKU#255359 $191.99

Tire pressures that I prefer (cold):
38psi rear tire pressure, 40psi front tire pressure

Front Fork lower boot gaiters for FXSB Breakout:
Bikers Choice 48-8791 (49mm diameter short length for 49mm Dyna Street / Fat Bob / Breakout)
Extended length = 6.5”, Collapsed length = 3.0”

EBC HH+ Front Brake Pads for FXSB Breakout:
Harley Davidson EBC Brakes Double H Sintered Pads P/N FA457HH
** ABS, CVO and 2015 Breakouts may require a different part number

Ricor Intiminator Dampers for FXSB Breakout:
Web reference: http://store.ricorshocks.com/product_p/049-20-1001.htm 49 MM Intiminator for HD. Call Brian to place order (888)-425-1333 (don't email), tell him your riding weight and style so he can set the adjustments for you. Mine are set for: [Rider Weight with gear:190lbs], mostly 1-up with occasional 2-up. I chose these since they are 100% "drop in", no drilling of stock dampers required. And yes, they work incredibly well.
You will need 4 16-oz bottles of Amsoil or Maxxima 5w fork oil. Yes, 5w is used with the Ricors. 25.6 OZ per fork tube. Measure up 26 OZ in a container, pour in, you'll end up with 25.6 OZ due to residual remaining in container.

Race Tech 1.0kg performance fork springs for FXSB Breakout:
Web reference: http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/...%20Bob/2008-13 Spring series for 06+ FXDB, (fits FXSB) - P/N FRSP S4430100 (RT FRK SPR 43.5x300 1.0kg ). 10% HD Forum Member discount, call to order (951) 279-6655. You can get the FRSP S4430 springs in any weight, such as .90 kg, 1.1 kg etc. - Or, get one .90kg and one 1.0kg and end up with a .95kg set. The 1.0kg springs should be fine for most riders 180lbs (with gear on) to 220lbs.


Install notes, tool sizes:

** Before jacking bike up, crack the wheel axle bolts. Not loose, just enough to get the initial TQ load off of the nut. Much easier and safer.

Rear Wheel Removal:
Remove brake caliper 1st, two T40 bolts on the caliper bracket. Note: The brake caliper bracket is a tight fit between the wheel and disc brake, and before continuing with removal of wheel I recommend putting masking tape over the forward end of the caliper bracket so it does not chip the finish on your wheel. You'll thank me by taking the time to do this.

STOP. Make a few marks with masking tape and a sharpie before proceeding so you'll be able to EASILY re-align the rear wheel and set belt tension.
> On the belt side axle nut, place a small piece of masking tape facing up on the top-side of the nut, next to the washer. Place another small piece of tape on the swingarm right above the tape you placed on the nut.
> Take a sharpie and make two vertical lines side by side across these two tape pieces, marking the top of axle nut and it's exact location in swingarm slot. This is your EZ reference to put it back exactly the way it was. Two marks is preferred since it gives you better ability to line them up accurately afterwards vs one mark. Three marks is fine too.

Loosen rear axle nut from right side (not exhaust side), slide axle pin out toward exhaust side. You do not need to hold the exhaust side of axle to loosen or tighten.
IMPORTANT.Loosen adjuster on belt side only, spin it back about an inch. DO NOT loosen the exhaust side adjuster bolt as it will be your reference mark for re-installation.

Slide the belt side of wheel forward enough to remove belt. Be careful not to **** the wheel too much because the brake disc is still sitting inside a groove on the lower edge of caliper bracket.

After the belt is off, pull belt side of wheel rearward enough to slide out the long spacer, again not too much since the disc is still inside that caliper bracket groove. the two rings on spacer always point outward.
Now push back end of wheel to the left, enough to pull out the two spacers on the right (note their position and order).

Now slide the entire wheel to left evenly and keep your hand on the caliper bracket, sliding it left with the wheel. The bracket sits on a tab on the swingarm fork, it is a friction fit with a piece of rubber and will slide off slowly. It needs to slide left with the wheel so you can pull the caliper bracket off the tab, and then remove wheel. Keep your hand on the caliper bracket so it does not damage the wheel paint.

Installation of wheel is the exact reverse:
Slide wheel in to swingarm together with caliper bracket so the brake disc is inside the bracket groove, slide wheel right and seat the caliper bracket onto the frame tab. Slip belt onto pulley. Insert right side spacers, hold wheel to right and insert left spacer. Slide axle bolt in from right to left, snug the axle bolt firmly, lower jack so tire is on ground or place wood under rear tire, then TQ to spec.

You'll need to align your rear wheel and set belt tension. See below for my EZ notes on this, it is not difficult if you followed my steps above. Otherwise you'll need a belt tension gauge and an alignment tool to do this properly.

Align the rear wheel and set belt tension:
As noted above, you did not loosen the exhaust side adjuster bolt when you took off the rear wheel, and you made two tape line pen marks on the belt side axle nut and swingarm. Spin the axle nut onto the axle bolt just to where it is touching the washer and swingarm, and point the tape mark on the axle nut straight up. Adjust the tension adjuster bolt on the belt side until both tape line marks on your axle nut line up with the tape line mark on your swingarm. Turn the axle nut a bit if needed to be sure your marks are straight and lined up.

Now tighten down the axle nut firmly, lower bike onto tire slightly, TQ nut to spec, 95 ft-lb. Done. Eazy-peazy

Install Rear Brake Caliper:
Screw in top short bolt, leave it loose, read important note note below, then put in the bottom slider bolt and TQ. then TQ the top short bolt.

**IMPORTANT thing to note when putting the rear brake caliper back on. The brake pads, you'll notice, flop out of the caliper when you removed it. The pads have a dog ear on the front bottom. These dog ears sit into a square notch on the bottom of caliper bracket.
When you put the caliper back on, first hold the pads straight and apart as you slide it onto the brake disc. As you work the caliper onto the caliper bracket to align the bolt holes, BE SURE the inner pad dog ear is INSIDE the square notch on bracket and not floating in front of it.
Do a visual check by looking through the wheel from the belt side, and visually verify the inner pad is inside the notch. It's easy to miss this as everything will appear correct, bolts will tighten, wheel will spin- but you'll be really sad the first time you try to use the rear brake!

TQ Values (always TQ to the lower end of the stated values):
Rear axle nut (3/4" Hex Bit): 95-105 ft-lbs - Note, a 19mm hex works, as does a 3/4 spark plug socket used in reverse. Removal nut for axle is on non-exhaust side.
Rear brake caliper (upper) bolt (T40): 16-20 ft-lbs
Rear brake caliper slider pin (lower) bolt (T40): 16-20 ft-lbs
Snug both brake caliper bolts, torque the slider pin (lower) first to spec, then upper bolt.

Front Wheel Removal:

** Crack axle nut loose and caliper bolts before jacking tire off ground.

Remove brake caliper 1st, two bolts, 10mm 12-pt socket.

Loosen and remove axle nut on brake caliper side, then remove bottom cap bolts from left fork bottom. A 5mm hex bit will fit these cap bolts.

After you remove the cap bolts the axle pulls out to left. TIP: Watch out you don't drop and scratch the black wheel spacers on either side of wheel as you pull the axle out.

Unbolt and remove the fender at this point if proceeding with fork tube removal

Front wheel re-installation:
Raise bike so right side (looking at bike from front) slider axle hole is roughly in line with wheel axle hole, as you place the wheel in between the fork sliders.
Place left side black wheel spacer on axle. Slide axle through wheel, through right side wheel spacer, and through right side slider axle hole.
Place axle washer and axle nut onto axle, give it a few threads.
Place left side fork slider cap around left side of axle and thread in the 5mm alan socket bolts. Treat these like handlebar riser clamps- you need to tighten them EVENLY so the gap on front edge and rear edge are even. Don;t tighten them yet, just tighten them enough so it holds the axle in place.
Raise wheel off ground and tighten axle nut firmly, ensuring everything is seated.
lower bike onto tire slightly and TQ the axle nut to 75 ft lbs.
Tighten the two 5mm alans, each one a little at a time to ensure even clamping and even gap, TQ both bolts to spec, 132 inch-lbs
Install brake caliper, thread in bottom bolt and hand snug, insert top bolt and hand snug. TQ bottom bolt to 28 ft-lbs, then same for top bolt.

TQ Values (always TQ to the lower end of the stated values):
Front axle nut (15/16" wrench or socket): 70-75 ft-lbs
Front axle bottom cap bolts (5mm hex bit) TQ: 132-180 inch-lb / 14.9-20.3 Nm
Front brake caliper bolts (10mm 12-pt socket): 28-38 ft-lbs
Front brake caliper brake pad retainer pin (10mm 12-pt socket): 15-16 ft-lbs
Front master cylinder cap screws: 12-15 inch-lbs
When installing front caliper, snug both bolts by hand, then torque the bottom bolt to spec, then the top bolt last.

Front Forks Removal:
** To remove the tube top cap nuts, you must first loosen the top pinch bolts on triple tree, otherwise the caps will NOT budge- Leave bottom pinch bolts tight so the tube does not spin while loosening the tube cap nuts. DO NOT remove the top cap nuts while forks are on bike.

** Use a strip of masking tape around the flats of the tube cap nuts to avoid marring finish with the socket.

** Cover your tanks, including the lower front, with a towel (better safe than sorry)

** Mark your tubes for location: Before loosening or pulling the tubes out, use a piece masking tape to mark the front of tubes on the tube under the bottom triple tree , and a matching piece / mark on the lower front of triple tree, so you can put the tubes back in the same way. When you tighten the tube cap nuts they too will end up the same way as before.

** No tube scratches: Wipe the upper part of fork tubes clean between the triple trees, and then coat with WD40 to prevent scratches while removing.

Front Fork Removal Steps FXSB Breakout:
Loosen top triple tree (T45 bit) pinch bolts

Loosen top tube cap nut a few turns 35mm socket (if you are not going to service forks or change springs, skip this step and leave the top cap tight)

Grab bottom of fork slider and then loosen the lower triple tree T45 pinch bolt - Fork will drop, carefully guide it out without cocking it.

Remove top fork cap nut::
DIY Warning! There is a LOT of pre-load on the stock springs via a really long spacer sitting on top of really long progressive (crappy) spring. I would not advise removing the top tube caps while fork tubes are on the bike, you just won't have enough physical leverage to control the pop-off.

To safely remove the FXSB fork tube top caps:
**Important! > First loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt very loose. Then loosen fork tube top cap nut (maybe 2-3 turns). the top fork cap nut is TIGHT and it is easier to break it free while it is still tightly held in the triple by the bottom triple pinch bolt. however, it is impossible to loosen the fork tube cap nut if the top pinch bolt is tight, so that is why we loosen it first.

Then loosen bottom pinch bolt and pull fork leg out (wipe upper part of fork tube first with wd40 for easy slide out with no scratches).

Next, set bottom end of fork on ground, on a couple of layers of soft cloth. Place the 35mm socket onto the cap bolt, then drape a big towel over the fork tube and over the 35mm socket. Now poke a hole poked in the towel for the 3/8" drive ratchet wrench, so you can stick it through into the 35mm socket.

Use a bungee or tape and do a wrap around the towel about halfway down the fork tube- Then stick the ratchet wrench through the hole in towel into the 35mm socket and proceed to remove cap nut, while putting your body weight over the wrench to control pop-up of the cap / keep pressure off the threads. When the cap pops free, the towel will prevent the cap from flying out of control and you can easily take it off without damaging the cap finish.

See my next post for exact steps on swapping the fork springs and adding the Ricor dampers.

Reinstalling Fork tube:
Wipe fork tube clean, wipe upper tube lightl with WD40. Now slide it back up the triples.
Check the fork tube height, and your forward mark. Now snug the bottom triple pinch bolt just enough to hold the fork tube. Recheck fork tube height and forward mark, then TQ the bottom pinch bolt.
Now tighten tube top cap nut, TQ to spec.
Then tighten the top pinch bolts, TQ to spec.
Reinstall fender, then wheel / axle, then caliper.

TQ Values:
Front fork tube cap nut (35mm socket / wrench): 50 ft-lbs (the HD svc manual says 60-70 but that is tighter than necessary)
Fork fork pinch bolts (T45) (upper and lower): 30-35 ft-lbs
Fender bolts (13mm): 15-21 ft-lbs
Fork tube height adjustment: 0.35 in (8.9mm). This is how far the fork tubes should sit above the triple tree. Measure from top edge of tube cap nut to top surface of triple tree. Basically the bottom front-facing edge of tube cap should be just a hair above flush with the front-facing top surface of triple tree. you'll notice the rear edge of cap sits slightly higher due to the raked bore of the triple trees- that is ok.


Last edited by LA_Dog; 02-26-2016 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:27 PM
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Post Harley Breakout Performance Upgrade of Front Forks and Dampers DIY

Upgrading the FXSB Breakout fork springs to Race Tech 1.0kg springs and adding Ricor Intiminator dampers on 49mm forks:

**Before you slide the fork tube out of the triple trees, wipe down the upper part of fork tube so it is spotless, then wipe it with wd40. this prevents scratches while sliding it out.

Removing stock springs, spacer and oil from forks:
With fork tube removed from bike and top cap nut removed (see my above post for warning / tip on cap nut removal), set the bottom of fork on a soft towel on the ground. Pull out the factory preload spacer, washer and spring. Pull spring up slowly to avoid oil going everywhere and have a rag handy.

Dump oil out of fork tube into container, there's about 26oz in there. Pump the fork collapsed / open several times while holding upside down to get all the oil out. When you stop hearing squishy noises and it's mostly air noise, you've got it all out.

PREP ITEMS TO HAVE READY before proceeding with each fork tube:
  • 2 16oz bottles of fork oil (2 per fork, you'll need 4 bottles), open and ready. **Breakout uses 5w oil, some Dynas will use 10w.
  • Pour 10oz of fork oil from one of the bottles into a container at this time and set aside, you'll need it ready to grab. Put that half empty bottle away you don't need it.
  • Keep one of the stock springs and the stock preload spacer handy, you'll need these within reach too.
  • Also keep the old washers as we'll re-use those too.
  • A pair of PVC cutters, or a hacksaw if you can cut straight (lol)
  • A sharpie marking pen
  • Paper towels
  • A couple of soft large towels
  • Something to lean the fork against at a 60-degree angle while you cut the preload spacers- the 60-degree angle is important.

Keep this all within easy reach.

Installation Steps:
With fork upright, fill fork with 16oz (one bottle) of 5w fork oil. You'll see it bubble down past the factory damper.

Work the fork up and down slowly a bunch of times to get the air out. be sure you are pushing all the way down and pulling all the way up. when you stop hearing air / gurgling noises, all of the air is out.

Collapse the tube all the way down. Drop the Ricor unit into the tube, nut side UP.
Use the old spring to push the Ricor unit all the way down. You will need to use the old preload spacer to get the final bit of push and seat it against the bottom.

Pull out the old preload spacer, pull out the old stock spring, extend the top fork tube all the way up - and be sure it is all the way up cause it will want to slide back down on it's own.

Drop in the Race Tech spring, drop in the old washer on top of the spring.

The Race Tech springs came with a piece of PVC pipe to use as your new preload spacers. Take the long piece and slide it into the fork tube.

While holding the fork tube all the way up, use the sharpie to mark the pvc cutline at exactly flush with top of tube. Again double check your tube is fully extended. Spin the pvc and continue the mark all around.

Pull pvc out, watch for oil drips. Lean the fork tube at a 60 degree angle against something soft. Make sure the fork tube is not collapsing on it's own and could fall over, cause with the 5w it will want to collapse. leaning it at an angle should keep it from sliding back down.

Cut the pvc at the mark. Make sure your cut is flat and straight, wipe the PVC clean inside and out, and don't leave any PVC burrs that could contaminate the suspension system.

Fill fork tube with remaining 10oz of fork oil while holding fork fully extended.

Drop in your new cut PVC preload spacer (be SURE you put that washer in there on top of the spring, the preload spacer sits on top of the washer). Be sure it looks flush with the top of extended tube.

Install tube cap nut:
Place fork tube on ground, on your soft cloth, upright. While holding the upper tube up, press down on the cap until you feel thread contact. While pressing on the cap, spin the upper fork tube to start the threads. be careful not to cross thread. Get a few threads started to be sure it is secure

Now get the 35mm socket, and spin cap on snug but not final tight.

Insert fork tube into triple tree, set height, note your front of tube location, snug the bottom triple tree pinch bolt to hold it in place

Do the next fork leg, same process..

After both fork tubes are installed in triple, set the required tube height, TQ the bottom triple pinch bolts to spec, TQ the fork cap nut to spec, TQ the top triple pinch bolts to spec, reassemble wheel, axle, brake caliper, fender.

Last edited by LA_Dog; 04-02-2016 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:32 PM
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RESULTS post-upgrade:

The front tire stays planted, no more religious experiences even pushing the corners through the rough.

Fast braking is drastically improved. the rear tire really sticks, no more nose dive, and I'm hard pressed to make the rear lock up. I now pretty much need to stand on the rear brake to lock up the rear at 30/45 mph, whereas before it didn't take much.

the Night Dragon tires give the bike a whole 'nother level of feel- turn in is fast, smooth and precise. slow turns are also smooth and easy. no more tire flop.

The EBC HH pads do give a better bite.

I'm just kicking myself for not doing this SOONER.

The Ricor's really work AAA+++
The 1.0kg springs are firm but not overly so, they will feel less firm if you are 200+lbs suited up, mor efirm if less than say 190 suited up. If you want it a bit more soft go with .90 kg springs.

I get more cornering clearance now since the front end is not dropping down under weight.

Overall- helluva lot of bang for the buck with the Night Dragon tiress, Race Tech springs, EBC HH pads and the Ricor Intiminators.
Old 04-07-2015, 09:26 AM
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In case some of you would prefer to have your dealer or local wrench perform the fork spring and damper upgrade on your Breakout (or other softail / dyna). Print this Ppost out and give to dealer / tech for quick step-by-step instructions. There is no deviation from these steps- this is the way to do it, and it is very easy. This process is same on all non-touring softail / dyna with 49mm forks.


Install Guide (short) for FXSB Breakout (all years), Race Tech springs and Ricor Intiminator 49mm Dampers.

Parts needed:
  • 1 set of Race Tech 1.0kg springs
  • 1 pair of Ricor dampers
  • 4 16oz bottles of fork oil (25.6oz of 5w fork oil per leg), Amsoil or Maxxima brand - ** Breakout uses 5w oil, Dyna's use 10w oil
  • 1 length of PVC pipe for the new pre-load spacers, this comes with the Race Tech springs in the box.

With fork tubes removed from motorcycle:

1. Remove fork tube cap nut, remove stock pre-load spacer tube, remove washer and stock springs. Save stock washer for re-use with new springs and new pre-load spacers.

2. Dump oil from shocks and thoroughly pump out all of the old oil. (Only use 5w for Breakout, DO NOT use 10w)

3. Fill fork tube with 16oz (1 bottle) of fork oil. Pump the fork tube fully up and down to purge air out.

4. Insert Ricor damper, nut side facing UP, use old spring to push the Ricor unit down and seat on top of stock damper. Make sure it is fully seated.

5. Extend fork tube upper fully, insert new Race Tech spring directly on top of Ricor damper.

6. Measure and cut new preload spacer: Insert PVC pipe and let rest on top of spring without washer. With fork tube fully extended, mark cut-line on PVC exactly flush with top of fork tube. This will give just under 1" of spring preload after all is assembled with the washer added and cap nut installed.

6. Remove PVC pipe and cut at mark, clean off any burrs and clean inside / outside of PVC pipe

7. With fork tube fully extended, add remaining 9.6oz of fork oil (25.6oz per fork tube).

8. Insert stock washer on top of spring, insert new PVC spacer on top of washer, install top fork tube cap nut.

9. Repeat above steps for second fork tube.

10. Reinstall forks on motorcycle, torque pinch bolts and tube cap nut in sequence and to values per HD Service Manual.


Last edited by LA_Dog; 04-02-2016 at 10:56 AM.
Old 04-08-2015, 08:51 AM
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Reserved for coming info on brakes

** I have not done anything with the front brakes other than upgrade the pads to the HH+ as listed in post #2. Bike stops very well and much better than with the stock OE pads. I would however, like to have a slightly larger front rotor for more grip with less lever effort. Fortunately for you newer BO owners your front rotors are already a bit larger, so these HH+ front pads should give you even greater results. Always leave the rear brake alone, the stock setup and pads are more than adequate. 90% of your stopping power is in the front.

Last edited by LA_Dog; 12-20-2015 at 01:27 AM.
Old 04-19-2015, 03:30 AM
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Thanks for the good info. New bullet point on my to do list.
Old 05-28-2015, 01:27 PM
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thanks for the info!
Old 05-28-2015, 04:08 PM
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Glad it was helpful- Post up your results and impressions! Many happy miles on my Breakout since doing this.
Old 05-28-2015, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog View Post
Glad it was helpful- Post up your results and impressions! Many happy miles on my Breakout since doing this.
definitely felt the mushy front end right from the first ride...im sponsored by racetech for roadracing/mx/ama so ill get all the RT goodies available...i have a ducati hypermotard that had a super mushy front end as well...went through cart kits etc...finally adapted ohlins superbike forks to solve the issue...but very costy$$$$$$...thank god i wont be racing or doin trackdays with the breakout..but already scrapping the pegs w/o feelers..lol

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