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Believe what you want. I'm not going to show any more.
It's not belief, it's fact. As someone that has done this, there are no holes in the fork tube prior to, or after installing emulators. There are holes in the DAMPING ROD, which is inside the fork tube.
Ok, I'm settled on front fork suspension upgrade, thanks to all.
For '18+ softails with rear mono shock/spring, does a $1,000 aftermarket shock/spring improve ride enough to justify the pricey swap?
i.e. - if you've already upgraded the too-mushy front forks, is the factory rear relatively bad also, or did they make it 'passable' (unlike the fronts)?
Look at the tutorial link from Race Tech I provided. The damping hole is in the fork tube. The fork tube is the stationary tube bolted to the bottom fork attached to the wheel.
Just in case someone were to become confused about this disagreement, can you please post a picture of exactly where these holes get drilled in the fork tube? I can't find it in the info you posted.
Just in case someone were to become confused about this disagreement, can you please post a picture of exactly where these holes get drilled in the fork tube? I can't find it in the info you posted.
Yes - my terminology is off - I am talking about the bolted-in, fixed damper tube. Bolted to the bottom of the bottom fork tube. It has a fixed orifice for oil flow. If it were too small, the forks would be overdamped because oil couldn't flow fast enough through it, making a harsh ride. But they are too SOFT, meaning the hole is already too big. So making the hole bigger or adding another hole is the opposite of what is need and adds expense of tearing the whole fork apart. https://racetech.com/emulators-how-they-work/
Yes - my terminology is off - I am talking about the bolted-in, fixed damper tube. Bolted to the bottom of the bottom fork tube. It has a fixed orifice for oil flow. If it were too small, the forks would be overdamped because oil couldn't flow fast enough through it, making a harsh ride. But they are too SOFT, meaning the hole is already too big. So making the hole bigger or adding another hole is the opposite of what is need and adds expense of tearing the whole fork apart. https://racetech.com/emulators-how-they-work/
Damper tube, got it. I thought that's what you meant.
The idea is to enlarge the hole in the damper rod so the emulator can regulate both low and high speed damping. The emulator is doing the damping work instead of the damping rod.
The idea is to enlarge the hole in the damper rod so the emulator can regulate both low and high speed damping. The emulator is doing the damping work instead of the damping rod.
Exactly - as I showed from my Sportster Damper tube (above), it's easy....
Just because you have "newer" larger (49mm tube) bikes, it doesn't meant that the "traditional"
suspension has been improved (unless you have the upside down forks)....
Exactly - as I showed from my Sportster Damper tube (above), it's easy....
Just because you have "newer" larger (49mm tube) bikes, it doesn't meant that the "traditional"
suspension has been improved (unless you have the upside down forks)....
Just sayin....
T.
The dual bending valve is a slight improvement, but still leaves much room for improvement.
The hole does not need enlargement. Read the DK literature.
*if using a sufficiently light weight oil with the DK Intiminator valves, which may work great, but it limits your tuning ability and also limits your fork oil choices. The Racetech method does not rely on specific weight oil, so you have more options to tune it to your liking. Apples to oranges, similar result (although I still think the Racetech method is better). That's about enough . I hope it works out and you like the results, and maybe even learn some things about suspension in the process.
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