Does anyone know if you can fit 2x TM400X4AD under the fairing of a 2018 Street Glide Special?

If not, what about 1x TM400X4AD +1 x TM400X2ad?

Thanks!

 

i would say that you could if you were using the BT speaker brackets, as they free up a lot of room. the amp is not that big especially if you do not use their glorified amp tray stuff.
m
ps, i have not done this install, i am basing my opinion on the other 2014 bikes that i have done, if the underhood of an 18 is THAT different, well. take thin cardboard and cut it and tape it up to the dimensions that they list online for the amp, and use it like a dummy to mock it up and see if it seems like it will work out.

 

Funny you ask that as I am working on exacty that same project. I am researching amperage draw from the amp vs. amperage output from the stock HD charging system so not to zapp the amps from under amperage. 13-15 volts are one thing but proper amperage to the amplifier is a must.

 

i am currently running 2 RFTM400x4ads and an ARC Moto600.4 on my bike with the upgraded 50amp Cycle Electric Charging system kit and I am not running into low voltage issues unless it's at high volume at idle for a couple of minutes. at speed all is good.
m
newer bikes that have the 60 amp system should not have an issue at speed, the length of time at idle and volume level at idle are where i have to be careful.

 

That is what I am finding out. My questions are: amperage draw from the amp x2 at low/no volume vs. output at low rpm. Those voltage regulators on HD charging systems are very delicate. I just don't want to overload that voltage regulator if stuck on the freeway at idle for a long time.

 

I've had an Arc 600.4 and an Nvx 400 running together with no issue. Going down the road everything keeps up. At idle, tunes cranked will drop voltage to 12.6 to 12.8. Not running, now that's a different story.

Currently running an SD800 and the NVX, same results.

 

I am not so worried about the voltage as it will stay consistent in most cases. What worries me is the amperage output when your voltage drops to 12.6 and the stress on the charging system (voltage regulator) trying to keep the amperage up. Resistance kills amperage, not voltage and I'm researching the draw from the amps, resistance from the system (wire size, capacitor loads from the amps, voltage regulator max amperage output, ect.) to make sure I don't zap the regulator if at idle for a long time. An example is: if your voltage regulator drops at idle and goes back up QUICKLY when the rpm goes up then the voltage regulator is weak and not able to keep the voltage constant at idle.

Then again, none of this is proven or standard practice so for anyone else to try, I would run it past the proving board first.

 

The amperage is drawn from the battery, not the regulator or stator for that matter. How much draw your battery can handle and how well it can be charged becomes the issue. If I remember correctly the RF amps have an average draw of somewhere around 28 amps. No single stock battery is going to hold up at load for long. At speed the charging system is sending power back to the battery so that it can recover/recharge, but that is limited by what the stator can produce, not much to do with the the regulator. The regulator's job is just to convert the AC voltage to DC voltage and send it back to the battery at a set voltage limitm

 

I switched over to the Stinger SPX925-HD a few weeks ago and noticed a difference with it. The battery doesn't discharge as fast and it seems to charge back up a little faster too when it does lose a little juice.

 

Ron is that Stinger SPX better then the Yuasa GYZ32HL... Curious what the Competition bikes are running?