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Arc PSM floor noise question

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  #11  
Old 11-17-2018, 08:54 PM
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The way that I understand the DSP function is that it puts out what you tell it to, it has know way to know way to know anything about how your amp gains are set up, as there is no backwords flow of information to it and no circuitry to do anything about it. it is a one way flow from head unit to dsp to amp. An amp with a built in DSP (like the Audio Control brands) might have this kind of feature, but the popular ones that we use, do not.(ARC PSM, DSR1, and Dsi-2)
That being said, it is still important to have your channel levels, and output levels from your DSP set up right (including master output level and source input voltages where applicable) and then re-tweaking your amp gains.
m
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2018, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by marcodarq
The way that I understand the DSP function is that it puts out what you tell it to, it has know way to know way to know anything about how your amp gains are set up, as there is no backwords flow of information to it and no circuitry to do anything about it. it is a one way flow from head unit to dsp to amp. An amp with a built in DSP (like the Audio Control brands) might have this kind of feature, but the popular ones that we use, do not.(ARC PSM, DSR1, and Dsi-2)
That being said, it is still important to have your channel levels, and output levels from your DSP set up right (including master output level and source input voltages where applicable) and then re-tweaking your amp gains.
m
U might have to get the crayons out for me on that info, but all I know is that if u set the gains on ur amp t max blast and ur DSP master gain at the negative max to manage such gains, the results will be far from optimum. Full throttle w the parking brake set no worky.

T
 
  #13  
Old 11-17-2018, 09:46 PM
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Thanks y'all. The gains are set fairly conservatively. I can plug the amps back into the head unit RCAs and the noise goes away.

I've got everything torn apart now trying to figure out how I want to secure the wires, but I suspect once I get it back together and get on the road the noise won't be noticeable. When I turn the volume up to the fourth bar the music generally drowns out the hiss.

I guess the reason it bugs me is because like most folks when I hear white noise like that I automatically think the gains on the amps are turned up too high and may blow speakers. The sound of the music itself is quite good. I do wish I could leave the USB cable connected when putting the fairing back on for tweaking but those micro USB ports break very easily. I just don't want to take the risk.
 
  #14  
Old 11-18-2018, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
Thanks y'all. The gains are set fairly conservatively. I can plug the amps back into the head unit RCAs and the noise goes away.

I've got everything torn apart now trying to figure out how I want to secure the wires, but I suspect once I get it back together and get on the road the noise won't be noticeable. When I turn the volume up to the fourth bar the music generally drowns out the hiss.

I guess the reason it bugs me is because like most folks when I hear white noise like that I automatically think the gains on the amps are turned up too high and may blow speakers. The sound of the music itself is quite good. I do wish I could leave the USB cable connected when putting the fairing back on for tweaking but those micro USB ports break very easily. I just don't want to take the risk.
I can't help you with the floor noise, as I haven't experienced that. I do however leave my usb cable plugged in at all times. I have a Rushmore, so I ran the cable to the cubbie and leave it there. Ran loosely, so it doesn't tug or pull on the micro end and zip tied so it won't get pulled tight. I've had it this way for over a year without issue.
 
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Old 11-18-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dsm Limited
I do however leave my usb cable plugged in at all times. I have a Rushmore, so I ran the cable to the cubbie and leave it there. Ran loosely, so it doesn't tug or pull on the micro end and zip tied so it won't get pulled tight. I've had it this way for over a year without issue.



T
 
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  #16  
Old 11-18-2018, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for the info about the cable y'all. My unit will be pointing forward towards the fairing cap, so with the straight cable I don't really have anything to tie it to. I may get a cable with a right angle plug on it and see if I can secure it that way with some cable ties as y'all mentioned.
 
  #17  
Old 11-18-2018, 08:05 AM
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I plug them in and put a couple of dabs of clear silicone on them (outside the connector) to help secure them in place ans stabalize the delicate connector. The tie the cord a bit further down as described.
m
​​​
 
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
Thanks for the info about the cable y'all. My unit will be pointing forward towards the fairing cap, so with the straight cable I don't really have anything to tie it to. I may get a cable with a right angle plug on it and see if I can secure it that way with some cable ties as y'all mentioned.
Mine faces forward as well. It goes straight towards the outer fairing. I looped it back (rearward) with lots of slack, then tied it back. If the cable gets pulled, it stops at the zip tie and leaves the looped slack loose. I like the idea of a dab of silicone on the outer plug.
 
  #19  
Old 11-18-2018, 02:45 PM
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Thanks again for the tips y'all. I think part of this is my learning curve with the device.

One thing I was reminded of is the PSM isn't just a DSP, it is also a line driver. I was able to turn my gains down to stupid low levels that would have actually distorted when I had the head unit plugged straight into the amp. I've been able to dial them down from 11 and 12 o'clock to about 9 and 10 o'clock which lowered the floor noise a little bit to where it wasn't annoying.

I was able to ditch the line driver I had on the rear amp which is the RF TM400x4ad which basically has speaker level inputs on it. Rockford says if you want to use speaker level inputs to just cut the RCA plugs off of the harness and use that same input. If there is no switch to change the voltage sensitivity then it must basically be designed for speaker level signals. On that amp I selected .5 volt sensitivity and was able to keep the same volume without much more floor noise than the head unit RCA run through the LD-10 line driver. On the front amp which is the SS PN4.1000d I have it set to 2 volt sensitivity and still have enough volume to where I have to run the fader a tad towards the rear.

Thanks again for all the help this old mud covered geezer glide is startin to sound pretty good to my ears.
 
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