New DB Drive WDX6MOTO-G2 and G5
#261
#262
Here are the output listings for the H model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
#263
Here are the output listings for the H model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
Im currently using the 2 pairs of rca. One for the fronts and one for the lids. I’m assuming this is correct and I should Be in 4 channel input correct lol pic included and circled
#264
Here are the output listings for the H model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
Here are the output listings for the S model:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
So it looks like either one should give a decent input signal to the amp.
It looks like I have the aq-mp-5ubt-hs model. Is there a way I can find out what volume this headunit starts to clip at?
#265
Coz that seems to be how I have mine hooked up as well.
The specs on the RCA outputs on the model you just listed SEEM pretty good:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
I haven't looked at the controls of my Arc amp in ages because of the plate on top of the amp but I THINK I have the gain on my Motos turned down lower than you do. I know that is a general statement but I seem to recall the gain on the Motos in the fairing was turned down pretty low and I had to turn the gain for the rear channel (3 and 4) with the Mmats in the lowers up pretty high, maybe even a tad higher than you have.
I suspect that the high sensitivity of the Motos is why I didn't have to turn the gain up very high to get big sound out of them. Even with an aggressive EQ curve on my DSP I still had to turn the volume output of my DSP down one notch to keep the Motos from overpowering the Mmats in the lowers.
Also another thought is do you add much bass with the control on the head unit? One you get moving with these small speakers I have found very little benefit from adding more than a few notches on the bass control so I don't crank it up very high to be safe. These are just some thoughts I had based on my setup. Maybe someone with more experience than me can give you some pointers as well if none of this helps.
The specs on the RCA outputs on the model you just listed SEEM pretty good:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
I haven't looked at the controls of my Arc amp in ages because of the plate on top of the amp but I THINK I have the gain on my Motos turned down lower than you do. I know that is a general statement but I seem to recall the gain on the Motos in the fairing was turned down pretty low and I had to turn the gain for the rear channel (3 and 4) with the Mmats in the lowers up pretty high, maybe even a tad higher than you have.
I suspect that the high sensitivity of the Motos is why I didn't have to turn the gain up very high to get big sound out of them. Even with an aggressive EQ curve on my DSP I still had to turn the volume output of my DSP down one notch to keep the Motos from overpowering the Mmats in the lowers.
Also another thought is do you add much bass with the control on the head unit? One you get moving with these small speakers I have found very little benefit from adding more than a few notches on the bass control so I don't crank it up very high to be safe. These are just some thoughts I had based on my setup. Maybe someone with more experience than me can give you some pointers as well if none of this helps.
#266
Coz that seems to be how I have mine hooked up as well.
The specs on the RCA outputs on the model you just listed SEEM pretty good:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
I haven't looked at the controls of my Arc amp in ages because of the plate on top of the amp but I THINK I have the gain on my Motos turned down lower than you do. I know that is a general statement but I seem to recall the gain on the Motos in the fairing was turned down pretty low and I had to turn the gain for the rear channel (3 and 4) with the Mmats in the lowers up pretty high, maybe even a tad higher than you have.
I suspect that the high sensitivity of the Motos is why I didn't have to turn the gain up very high to get big sound out of them. Even with an aggressive EQ curve on my DSP I still had to turn the volume output of my DSP down one notch to keep the Motos from overpowering the Mmats in the lowers.
Also another thought is do you add much bass with the control on the head unit? One you get moving with these small speakers I have found very little benefit from adding more than a few notches on the bass control so I don't crank it up very high to be safe. These are just some thoughts I had based on my setup. Maybe someone with more experience than me can give you some pointers as well if none of this helps.
The specs on the RCA outputs on the model you just listed SEEM pretty good:
Outputs:2x stereo pair RCA (4V), 1x RCA sub-out, 1x rear USB (charging only)
I haven't looked at the controls of my Arc amp in ages because of the plate on top of the amp but I THINK I have the gain on my Motos turned down lower than you do. I know that is a general statement but I seem to recall the gain on the Motos in the fairing was turned down pretty low and I had to turn the gain for the rear channel (3 and 4) with the Mmats in the lowers up pretty high, maybe even a tad higher than you have.
I suspect that the high sensitivity of the Motos is why I didn't have to turn the gain up very high to get big sound out of them. Even with an aggressive EQ curve on my DSP I still had to turn the volume output of my DSP down one notch to keep the Motos from overpowering the Mmats in the lowers.
Also another thought is do you add much bass with the control on the head unit? One you get moving with these small speakers I have found very little benefit from adding more than a few notches on the bass control so I don't crank it up very high to be safe. These are just some thoughts I had based on my setup. Maybe someone with more experience than me can give you some pointers as well if none of this helps.
#267
Hoyt and weve.
WEVE, I’m surprised you had a full pass on without distortion. There isn’t much difference from the gen 1 to the gen 2. I believe 25 watts rms... do you have yours tuned at 24.5?
I guess my question is once its set to 24.5v do I never go above the volume that I set that at?? Thanks guys.
WEVE, I’m surprised you had a full pass on without distortion. There isn’t much difference from the gen 1 to the gen 2. I believe 25 watts rms... do you have yours tuned at 24.5?
I guess my question is once its set to 24.5v do I never go above the volume that I set that at?? Thanks guys.
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Ndfastln (07-01-2019)
#268
I've got my AMP set to full pass, but still filtering using the BT355. Based on my measurements I'm crossed at approximately 120Hz with a -12/-14 dB slope down to 100Hz and another -12/-14 slope down to 80Hz. So power wise it's a fairly aggressive drop in wattage from 120Hz down to 80Hz. My peak PO to speakers is 225W using a 0dB 1kHz test tone. I've had my WDX6MOTO G2's installed since the 3rd week of May, and have about 1,800 riding miles on them now. I haven't broke them yet............................
#269
A slope is the gradual decreasing of frequency when using either the frequency filter on the AMP or something like the Biketronics BT355. For example; you have your HP filter on the AMP set to approximately 100Hz. it's not a hard cutoff, as there is still frequency attenuation below the 100Hz threshold. Depending on the quality of the filter circuitry and number of stages, the slope can be rather lazy, or it can be rather aggressive, or somewhere in between.
With a band pass filter (like a DSP or some AMPs that have true band pass or band block capabilities) you can adjust the device to only pass through certain frequencies, or completely block other frequencies giving you more control.
With a band pass filter (like a DSP or some AMPs that have true band pass or band block capabilities) you can adjust the device to only pass through certain frequencies, or completely block other frequencies giving you more control.
#270
A slope is the gradual decreasing of frequency when using either the frequency filter on the AMP or something like the Biketronics BT355. For example; you have your HP filter on the AMP set to approximately 100Hz. it's not a hard cutoff, as there is still frequency attenuation below the 100Hz threshold. Depending on the quality of the filter circuitry and number of stages, the slope can be rather lazy, or it can be rather aggressive, or somewhere in between.
With a band pass filter (like a DSP or some AMPs that have true band pass or band block capabilities) you can adjust the device to only pass through certain frequencies, or completely block other frequencies giving you more control.
With a band pass filter (like a DSP or some AMPs that have true band pass or band block capabilities) you can adjust the device to only pass through certain frequencies, or completely block other frequencies giving you more control.