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Beyma 6cx200nd's a bust?

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  #31  
Old 02-22-2019, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Biggzed
Just curious. Were the speakers purchased:
New from an authorized dealer
Used
Online

Anyway to verify they are not somehow damaged?

Zach
Yep Speakers were purchased brand new through a Beyma rep
 
  #32  
Old 02-22-2019, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by haze324
Word. Something else is off.
In your post a while back you mentioned running that stinger amp with a dsp on those Beymas. Curious did you run the amp at 8 ohms or run the woofers and horns bridges? I really don’t want to have to run two amps for these speakers. But yes currently I have my horns and woofers bridged to create 2 4 ohms loads on that amp.
 
  #33  
Old 02-22-2019, 09:20 AM
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I gonna bet that Lucky 7 or one of these shops that run these would get some amazing damn consumer street creds if they provided some guidance on a ruff tuning sandbox. Not the secret sauce stuff but at least a bigger sandbox.

I know time is money and there is always a value on knowledge & wisdom but this can also be considered a marketing & advertising investment.

Ya never know.

But I do think that woofer is far more capable than 70-2500. And I also think that unless ur trying to pound the lower end of those freqs that ur really not going to have huge issues moving air with those pods, and can possible start drilling holes if needed.

T
 
  #34  
Old 02-22-2019, 11:20 AM
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Nick you're right those speakers sound like ****.
I'll give you $50 for them, (shipped)

Seriously, you need to bridge channels 1&2 on the left woofer and channels 3&4 on the right woofer on your Stinger amp.
Pick up a small 2 channel amp and run it on the horns/tweeters.
You can run these through your DSP and tune the Stinger amp to 75hz to 3000hz and the tweeter amp to 2500hz to 20,000hz.
You have good stuff, you're just $250 from being blown away.

Ron
 
  #35  
Old 02-22-2019, 11:49 AM
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I've done those speakers on RG with either a Stinger amp or an SD 800.4 wired the woofers in mono horns in stereo with very similar crossovers to the ones already mentioned and they pounded so I don't think it's the wiring, amp, crossovers or pods. Consider these options

1. You are using the DSR1, is your HU flashed? If so what flash, if not how did you "flatten" the signal
2. Make sure your woofers are wired in phase. I know of some Beyma speakers that were marked incorrectly
3. Try adding some polyfill in your pods, I don't think you need more air than what's in the pods. Those speakers don't have a very tight suspension.
4. Are your amps set to FP?
5. What slope setting do you have on your xovers?
 
  #36  
Old 02-22-2019, 12:21 PM
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Is it possible that you blew the horns? They are only rated to 40 watts. If you wired them bridge/parallel they would each get 175.
 
  #37  
Old 02-22-2019, 12:24 PM
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Don’t think so. The horns scream and are crystal clear. Gain is all the way down on those. But I think I will unbridge them to tone them down so that I can get more power/volume going to the woofers.
 
  #38  
Old 02-22-2019, 01:06 PM
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Make sure your woofers are wired in phase. I know of some Beyma speakers that were marked incorrectly
VERY good suggestion right there. I have had speakers before where the polarity was not marked at all. All you have to do to check is use a 1.5v battery (I use an AA or C or D, they are all 1.5V) and some zip cord. When you connect the battery to the speaker terminals if the cone moves out slightly the wire going to the positive terminal of the battery is positive. If the cone moves inwards then polarity is reversed and you can mark the terminals accordingly.
 
  #39  
Old 02-22-2019, 01:15 PM
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Looks like haze have some good trouble shooting points there. I also like his idea of at least running the horns stereo.
 
  #40  
Old 02-26-2019, 12:39 PM
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any update?
 


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