I agree with your concern that the fact the adjustment screw does nothing is telling you something. You really need to double check and make sure there is nothing left in there like an old O ring or washer.
It is possible that the previous owner tightened that screw to much and damaged the bore. Or the screw tip could be damaged. 45 pilot for a stock carb with better flowing air cleaner and pipes is pretty close, and a 42 is way to lean. Maybe get a new adjustment screw also.
To pm someone, click on their user name and a message option will pop up. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; 05-12-2017 at 04:01 AM.
I'm still not able to PM for some reason; the option does not appear for me. Thank you kp for the offer.
So I ordered an OE emulsion tube, needle jet, and N65C needle. I also ordered a Slinger jet kit which should give me a few options for correcting the jetting (has a needle with it, maybe a different profile compared to OE?). Also a new mixture repack kit but not a new needle yet as I think mine is okay. When the stuff arrives, I'll retry all the checks including intake leaks.
One thing I read more than once in the stickies is if the idle mix screw does nothing when screwed all the way in, then the low jet is too big. This assumes that fuel is not getting through another way. So I'll check all that before changing from the 45 pilot.
I don't think a carburetor is going to give you an intermittent problem like that. I would be looking into the ignition a little more closely. You can do an ohms test on your cam position sensor. Connect the black lead of your own meter to the black wire of the cam position sensor and the red lead to the green wire the cam position sensor. You should read infinite resistance. Now switch the leaves black the green wire red to black wire you should get somewhere between 500,000 and 750,000 ohms anything over 1 million ohms would indicate the sensor starting to fail this could be your intermittent problem when it gets hot I would replace the sensor if it's over 1 million ohms.
Just so you know standard Motor Products makes a cam position sensor for about $40 you can get on eBay I think it was the MC3 it's the later pin style for 95 to 98 Evo.
Agree 98, that's why I was trying to get him a needle and mixture oring before he bought parts. Suggested the heat test on the cam sensor too. Seems to be after it gets hot and toasty it starts fouling.
Here's where I am right now:
Ignition SENSOR resistance test
Black to black / red to green = infinity (pass)
Black to green / red to black = 4.56 Mohms (fail)
@98... so it would appear that my sensor fails part two of your sensor resistance test.
*I ran the ignition module resistance tests and not sure about my Pins 1-2 results, which go to the coil. The book doesn't say to disconnect the coil, but I don't get infinity like I should. This is the pink and W/B wire that leaves the module then splits to the coil and to the pin side of the main connector. On the socket side, a W/B wire joins these two and goes to the start switch. The test does say to have the Run/Off switch in the Off position, which I did. Moving this switch back and forth causes a jump in the reading, but it always settles back to 2.08 Mohms. Holding the switch down hard causes the reading to want to move toward zero ohms. I moved the switch back and forth several times and I get inconsistent readings, but never infinity. Regardless, it always settles back to around 2.0 Mohms.
I'm going to open the switch housing and take a peek. Any chance this is causing a problem? There's also an HD tach yellow wire connected to the coil with the pink wire. I'm going to disconnect that and see if my reading changes. Maybe the tach isn't properly grounded.
Working on the bike again and been thinking about next steps. I popped the cone cover off to take a look at the sensor; doesn't LOOK bad even though it tested bad. BTW, that sensor test that is allegedly in a Sportster service manual somewhere is not in my service manual.
OE cam position sensor on a 1995 FXDWG.
My module resistance testing gave odd numbers again. Pins 3-4-6-7 still test good. This time pins 1-2 gave very low resistance at first, in the 2-4 ohm range, until I operated the switch, then it went back to 2+Mohms. I conclude that there must be something wrong with the switches or wiring from the right switch module. I'm going to run the vibration test (wire direct from battery to coil) to see what happens and replace the switches if necessary.
Pin 5 (VOES) gave me 23-25 Mohms this time for some reason. I have not run the bike since I tested last time and we have some cool, damp weather today. I wonder if I should just go ahead and completely replace the entire ignition circuit?
No, one step at a time. You have the older style cam position sensor without attitude adjuster. No need to replace everything. the most common failure is the pickup (cam position sensor) they are not expensive. Start there, I think you'll be ok....
No, one step at a time. You have the older style cam position sensor without attitude adjuster. No need to replace everything. the most common failure is the pickup (cam position sensor) they are not expensive. Start there, I think you'll be ok....
Thanks; I will go one step at a time then. Two questions:
Should I get the direct replacement for my 32404-90 sensor or another OE model? The other one in the fiche is 32400-80A, which I believe is older.
I can't find the tool to extract and insert the sensor pins into the connector. Do you have any intel on that?
You don't need any special tool. With needle nose pull the center plug out (green, it locks the pins into position) with a flashlight look down into the connector you will see little clips that lock the pin in place. With a small pocket screw driver you can release the clip enough to slide out the pin. Make sure you take a pic before you start so you get them back into the right place.. Piece of cake.....
05-12-2017, 03:59 AM
