I have a 2003 1200 xlh that was spilling gas from the over flow. I took it apart and cleaned everything. Put it back together and it will not run for ****. It's way too rich and the new plugs were blackened in minutes. I had it apart adjusting and readjusting the float and replaced the needle. I tried resetting the idle air circuit and there is no change no matter where it's set. It basically just loads up and chokes out but it doesn't come out of the overflow anymore. I'm pulling my hair out over here.

 

Adjusting and re adjusting the float? Set it and leave it alone.

Set the idle mixture screw to about 2-1/2 turns, then leave it alone.

Fuel is probably still leaking past the needle and seat, many aftermarket needles are very poor quality.

Make sure you re installed the needle jet correctly, it is a common mistake to install it upside down (trust me on this ).

 

I double checked the float and set it according to the service manual instructions. It's not an aftermarket needle and I don't understand how it's possible to install it upside down. It went on just like the old one.

 

I said needle jet...that is the part that is in the bottom of the carburetor throat that the needle passes through (not the needle that controls the fuel level in the float bowl).

You said you took the carburetor apart...I was thinking you could have re installed it upside down, it happens all the time.

Item 12 in the illustration:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TOR%20ASSEMBLY

I have installed this part upside down before, the bike ran like crap...

Did you remove the idle air mixture screw? There is a tiny spring, washer and o ring in there...

 

I didn't mess with that or the slide I only opened up the bowl.

 

"I took it apart and cleaned everything". Like Dan89FLSTC mentions, if you took everything apart like removing the needle jet holder/velocity-emulsion tube, then there is a possibility your needle jet is installed wrong or missing. This is a fairly common thing for first timers going into the carb. And yes, it is accessed from the "bowl' area. This would explain it running like crap.

If you did remove it, then that is not your problem, but then you did not clean the carb thoroughly.

Another common problem is the idle adjust needle. There is an O-ring and washer in there that can get lost or dislodged and will cause you issues.

See the diagram in the link below as well as explore that site and proper position for pics of the needle jet (#10) and the idle mix screw packing.

Leaking fuel is the float needle seat. Remove it, clean the seat with polishing compound and a Q tip, and then removing polishing compound with carb cleaner.

https://cv-performance.com/harley-cv...-parts-diagram

 

After a few weeks of tinkering I gave up on the carb and bought a new one. I think the O-ring for the idle screw disintegrated and clogged something because it was no where to be found when I took the screw out. The new carb had much bigger jets (45/190) so the bike finally ran but it was still way too rich. I put 42/170 jets in it and now it will run but it's popping and hesitating and seems like it's missing. I checked the plugs and they went from being black and sooty to whitish which I know indicates a lean condition. So I have to be dealing with a vacuum leak that I can't seem to find or something else that I can't find.

 

Replace the intake manifold seals. They dry out as they age.

Also check vacuum hoses.

 

I changed the manifold seals about 5 years ago when I redid the top end. Do you think that's long enough to warrant replacement? I plan to replace the boot where the carb attaches and replacing the vacuum line going from the carb to the VOES for sure just wanted to throw in about the the other seals age to see if anyone thinks those should still should replaced as well. I'd like to do it all it once while it's apart. Again

 

I don't go by years, but by symptoms. Seals are cheap and if you replace them ya know they are fresh.

I personally despise anything less than a solid manifold with no rubber seals so I run Ram Jetts on both my FXRs. The stock design is easy to assemble in volume so I get why HD used it, but I've got over 100K miles on one FXR with zero leaks, and no carb brace needed despite running a heavy Super B and later an E. I'll get one for my Evo Sporty from a swap meet since I'm cheap.

There seem to be old wives tails about Ram Jetts conforming/deforming to the heads over time or some such bollocks, but I put a machinists straight edge on my three used ones and they were fine. (My first was bought new in 1988.) Now I've hoarded enough spares for me I'll recommend them. Should one not be flat, some sandpaper on a piece of plate glass should sort it and gray gasket material conforms well anyway.

You can only find Ram Jetts used and usually without the bolts, but you can spin socket head bolts against a bench grinder to narrow the heads to clear the casting. I use common heavy gray gasket paper for the gaskets.

Example only, this is NOT my advert. Note the casting mark for Sportsters and pics of the hardware. They also made a version that wouldn't require a CV adapter but I don't have pics of that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RAM-JETT...tZgeuV&vxp=mtr