I'm going to do intake manifold seals on a 2003 Wide Glide with carb (Twin Cam).

Once I get in there - what do I need in order to R&R these suckers? I see the Harley tool - which is an angled hex head with one side being ball end (photo below). I'd also like to torque it accurately at the end.

I happen to have almost the exact same tool in 1/4 inch as the Harley tool - except it's not a ball on one end. Would that work?

Another option - could I use the HF long bits? I've also seen reference to T-handles.

Ideally, I do not want to have to lift or remove the tank. Given all that, what would be the best tool to have for this job?

Here's an image of the typical Harley tool:



Thank you.

 

Just buy the damn tool.

 

What is the issue about removing the fuel tank?

Removing the tank is an easy process, and it makes a lot of things much simpler, this job is one of them.

Drain the tank, remove it and put it in a safe place, cover it.

 

As said just buy it , you waste more time & grief trying to monkey rig a workaround than it's worth. Makes the job so much easier.

 

Any suggestions about specific torque (I think 120 in lbs) or is it by feel?

 

@jessedyna, i did this exact same thing yesterday,,and i didnt know there was this tool above you posted,,but i made it with a cut off allen key (hex head) 1/4" ..and left about 3/8th inch to get into the bolt head,,mine came off fine,,,but i also ordered the tool for re-assembly,,,as for torquing it? i think its only like 6-12 inch lbs? but unless you get hd tool for this $$$? most people do it by feel,,,just dont gorilla it..and also from all my searching,,,the one constant suggestion is...hand turn the bolts down, then INstall the carb and associated parts as if you were done,(just snug,,its coming back off to complete the tightning of the intake bolts, what you are doing is getting everything Straight for intake to sit properly and not have the seals crunch up on you and casue a vacumm leak. Now go back and forth same amount on all bolts so you do not WARP the
intake flanges....and complete flange bolt tightning as close to torque as you feel is needed.. i am waiting on my intake tool now,,with seals,,and carb rear seal also.. hope that makes it easier for you...let us know how ya did..

 

Cool - thanks for the notes. I won't worry too much about torque unless I can get a torque wrench in there somehow. The manual calls for 96-144 in lbs. This is my 4th Harley so my number was going to come up eventually for this. My other bike is 21 years old and is absolutely rock solid with no manifold leaks. Go figure.

Speaking of gas tanks - I may just remove it afterall as the gas gauge isn't working and I'd like to remedy that. Will probably have to get to the wires under it anyway. Why not remove the gas tank? I'm allergic to dropping it.

 

That`s a pretty good reason...

A good way to protect it while it is removed is to put it in a cardboard box with some old towels to protect it. That way even if something gets slid against it on the workbench, floor etc, it will be protected.

 

Yep, that's pretty much exactly what I did last time I did it on another bike except I'll cover it before taking it off rather than having to wing it while holding the cargo!

 

This was easier than expected but hard in a couple areas.

First off, I don't recommend the "damn tool". The best tools for the job are:

1. Half inch piece of hex key (1/4 inch - straight).
2. 1/4 inch box end wrench (or one of the new fangled ratchet wrenches)
3. A tongue and groove pliers (to turn the short 1/4 wrench).
4. Patience.

Ran like a champ first try. A couple shots of brake cleaner to test for leaks and clean as a whistle. Let's see if it holds.

Thanks everyone.