Hi, 2000 Heritage, mild cams, VH Longshots with standard baffles (so not much baffle). SE intake and filter. External breather. Bike runs just ok with current setup of old school dynojet needle, dynojet emulsion tube and slide drilled little more than 1/8" (drill bit check has slight play). No damage to slide diaphragm and is flexible. Current jets are 180/48. From what I've found, 180/45 would be stock. The bike smells like it's running rich all the time, so bad, that my buds make me ride at the back and I'm getting about 25 mpg, I'm not a heavy throttle guy but I do cruise at 75ish on highway. Like I said it runs just ok. I get a slight hesitation on high speed roll on, but has plenty of power, and it idles nice. I checked the plugs doing a chop this past summer and plugs look perfect. When I pulled the carb apart today, the mixture screw was turned all the way in which worried me, but again...bike runs ok? Also, the needle had 3 washers stacked on top of the clip? See pic. This seems wrong
That seems wrong... I checked for intake leaks with brake cleaner and mapp gas, none.
I'm considering switching to CV emulsion tube and jets and then tuning the mixture screw. My questions are: jet suggestions? I can't be the only one with this setup and would like advice and what's up with those washers?

 

I have the best luck tuning these after I put them back top stock. Stock slide, stock emulsion tubes and stock needles. When done I might, maybe have shimmed the needle with one washer.

 

I agree, go back to stock components or if not stock, then use CVP parts. CVP has all the replacement parts for your carb, but again it is not HD parts.

Some swear by only HD parts. but I've had no problems with CVP part or service. A 175 to 180 main and about a 45 slow is "in the range".

Yes, that washer setup ain't right. Go back to a stock or CVP emulsion tube and needle, along with a CVP or HD main and slow jet.

I have had good luck with filling the oversized air bleed hold with JB weld, leaving it kind like a rivet shape so if it did come loose it would not get sucked into the engine, then drilling a new 7/64 hole right next the old (now plugged) oversize one. Or replace the slide.

Also, might want to consider checking or replacing intake manifold seals. If they are over a 3 or 4 years old, it may be worth your while. YD

 

Thanks for replies. I'm going to put it back to stock using OEM parts. They're available and cheap and I know they'll fit. As far as jetting, I'm not sure. With the stage 1 and (basically) open pipes, I know stock isn't going to work real well. I'll grab an assortment of jets and start playing....and I'm really not excited about doing the intake manifold seals, they look like a huge pain in the *** to replace. Those primary side bolts don't even look like I can get any, even homemade, wrench on them. I dont understand why they're not 12 point bolts. They don't seem to be leaking anyway. I sprayed brake cleaner with a tube on right at them and used mapp gas with a longish hose and got nothing. Thanks again!!

 

Those washers are correct. They are there to replicate the thickness of the top of the stock needle. The plastic spring seat pushes against it. If you remove some of the washers you will find the needle will move up and down instead of being seated.
If you go back to stock parts (advisable) I would not run the slide drilled to 1/8 inch. Replace it too.

 

Usually it's two #40 brass washers, they are there to raise the needle off the non-tapered portion of the needle. When the needle is raised the tapered part allows fuel to be metered right away and prevent what's known as a "carb fart".