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Getting Close to solving my carb

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  #11  
Old 07-31-2018, 07:57 AM
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Its a CV40 carb so the air/fuel screw is on the engine side. I am past 3 turns. 3 1/2ish. But on the 46 I could go in to almost seated without stalling the engine. I am still fouling plugs left and right. Maybe I'm in no man's land and maybe I should go to 46 and remove the needle shim?

I need to get a test on the voes (or even starter or ignition) . This seems beyond a carb tweek

Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Is the idle mixture screw in the rear of the carb? If so it regulates fuel not air. 3 turns out it's not uncommon. Also are you sure the o-ring for the idle mixture screw is in there? If not it could suck air there where it's not supposed to.
 
  #12  
Old 07-31-2018, 08:47 AM
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Do one thing at a time. Leave the 45 and just remove the shim..... If that makes it a little better go to a 185 or even a 180.. a190 seems to be a lot of fuel for a stock motor... You also need to confirm ignition timing and the voes....
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 07-31-2018 at 08:49 AM.
  #13  
Old 07-31-2018, 09:24 AM
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I have seen the same symptoms a few times over the years. On one occasion, I replaced the ignition module on another it was a faulty battery wire. I would check both battery wires though. Look at your headlight when you turn the throttle. Does it go dim ? If it does, check the battery connections and wires. If it does not, I would suspect the ignition is faulty. Long shot, but you might have a clogged fuel filter (if equipped).
 
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:47 AM
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Ive also replaced the fuel filter. Lol. I swear Ive done all this pissing around with the carb and I just know its not carb related at all.

i also thought 45/190 with a shimmed needle was alot. But seems that I got sneezing out of the carb every time I put a little more than take off throttle to it. The 46 pilot is the only time I havent had sneezing really and that caused the plugs to foul bad enough it took about 4 start tries to get it to fire...and that was with brand spanking new plugs
 

Last edited by BiggCliff412; 07-31-2018 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 07-31-2018, 11:26 AM
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Try grounding the purple VOES wire temporarily and see if the low speed issues improve. Also check for vacuum leaks in VOES switch and fuel valve. To check, remove vacuum line from carb and using a vacuum hand pump, see if it holds vacuum. Weak ignition, as eluded to above, can cause similar issues.
 
  #16  
Old 08-03-2018, 07:05 PM
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What I noticed was I couldnt get the vacuum slide to open all the up with throttle. It moves normally, sounds normally. Even using a little compressed air does the same. Is the voes a "do or dont" work or can it be screwed up and still work a little.

Would a bad ignition coil also cause the fouled plugs?
 
  #17  
Old 08-04-2018, 07:40 AM
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The slide should open fully. Find out why it doesn’t. Troubleshoot the VOES system. Weak ignition can cause plug fouling.
Now go work on the bike instead of your computer!
 
  #18  
Old 08-04-2018, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
The slide should open fully. Find out why it doesn’t. Troubleshoot the VOES system. Weak ignition can cause plug fouling.
Now go work on the bike instead of your computer!
lol. Unfortunately Im recovering from knee replacement surgery. All I have is the wrench and the computer to fill my days.
 
  #19  
Old 08-04-2018, 08:37 AM
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Ah! Great excuse! By all means, take care of that knee first. Hope you have enough info now once you’re well enough to get your hands dirty.
 
  #20  
Old 08-04-2018, 02:22 PM
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Lunchbreak question for you mr jbarr.

I have VH shorts shots they arent remotely loud at ALLLL during idle. thought that maybe I should throw some new copper gaskets based on a teeny tiny leak because I think I just pinched a previous gasket.

oddly that completely changed the movement of the vacuum piston slide on the carb. It now rasies completely and with some attitude. However, I am getting a little hesitation/stumble right as I crack the throttle that wasnt there before.
 


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