Decided that I wanted to remove and rebuild the Super G carb since I bought the bike used and the original build was over 10 years ago. Good news is that everything inside of the carb looked new, so instead of rebuilding, I documented current jet sizes (including ThunderJet). I've read as much as I could find (I think), watched videos, blah, blah, blah.....why would the air bleed be blocked off? First pic (not mine) shows what I expected to find, second pic (mine) shows what I found. Any ideas?
Motor was built by Flora Racing (South Bend, In.). 114 inch, Millenium jugs, S&S case. Current jets are .280, .740 and .135 (ThunderJet).

Paul

 

Forgot to add my pic......

 

 

If it was manufactured before oct 2003- it has a fixed air bleed.

 

The typical thunder jet install would cap off the fixed air bleed in the bowel area and relocate it to a jet installed externally on the left side of the carb. Look just in front of the enricher for a small jet ( the same as in the thunderjet)
It makes the thunderjet tunable to the desired rpm range.

 

Thanks, Scarydog! I pulled up the TJ instructions and you are dead on. I appreciate everyone's input on this. Time to get this carb back together and move on to the next thing :-)

 

Yes you have an external Air bleed but it has nothing to do with the Thunder-Jet. The external air bleed when changed will change when the main jet comes in. The larger the jet the later the main comes in or the lower in "hg.... The Thunder-Jet Has it's own air bleed. Also for a built 114" motor, are you sure your Intermediate jet is big enough? A .028" is goof for a stock 80" Evo.... You might want to think of installing a Wego III....

 

I can't say (yet) whether that 028 is adequate. I bought the bike right as our weather started to turn, so all I've done is wrench some and try to better understand exactly what I've got. I disassembled the carb because I wasn't sure what jets were in it, or what condition (internally) it was in. I'll definitely be spending some time figuring out what works best (jets) with the motor. I'll probably go ahead and get a decent AFR meter so I can monitor throughout the rpm range and go from there.
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I'll tel ya another little trick on the S$S carbs. The bowl vent that's on the left side of the Air horn. Block it off.. I believe I used a 5/16" plug (you will need to tap the housing to accept a plug.). It should vent to atmosphere not to the venturi of the carb (cause that's all about EPA crap) and I believe its open to atmosphere right under it.. I'll add the pics later. Here's why I say this, Atmospheric pressure on the bowl is changed when the throttle plate is cracked wide open (or cracked open period) therefore atmospheric pressure will not effectively apply the proper pressure on the bowl to provide the proper amount of fuel to the motor... It will actually change the signal to the carb... So to keep that constant you need to make sure that atmospheric pressure is the only constant variable ( throttle plate pressure changes all the time.) What this will do is give you the constant variable that you need to properly tune your S&S carb and motor...

 

here's what I was talking about, if you're looking at the 2 pictures that are listed, to the far left is the bowl vent that gets sucked backed into the Venturi which is an EPA modification, they have to do that. Right below that in the second picture if you look there is a plug that you can remove that will open up the bowl vent to atmosphere. Once that's done it will not change the pressure on the bowl based on throttle plate position which will give you an accurate monitoring of the fuel into the motor that you need. That is the one constant variable you need to truly tune your motor properly...