S&S E or Mikuni 45
#11
If you are comfortable working on it then pull the carb. If not do you have a buddy who is? Last resort is the Indy. I dont think the dealer works on anything older than 2000 but that can vary.
You can also access the jets by leaving the carb on and removing the 4 bowl screws. This will let you see the float too. S&S jetting recommendations is usually dead on. You should have a .028 to .031 for the intermediate and .066 to .074 on the main.
Perhaps finding out what the shop did exactly will tell us a lot,.
You can also access the jets by leaving the carb on and removing the 4 bowl screws. This will let you see the float too. S&S jetting recommendations is usually dead on. You should have a .028 to .031 for the intermediate and .066 to .074 on the main.
Perhaps finding out what the shop did exactly will tell us a lot,.
#12
I was told years ago to not let the bike warm up on the choke. Use the choke to start it up then turn it off and tighten the throttle screw so it holds around 1200 or so a couple minutes. This would keep it running to warm up but wouldn't enrich it too much to foul out the plugs over time.
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
#13
I was told years ago to not let the bike warm up on the choke. Use the choke to start it up then turn it off and tighten the throttle screw so it holds around 1200 or so a couple minutes. This would keep it running to warm up but wouldn't enrich it too much to foul out the plugs over time.
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
#15
Intermediate jet will bring the bike up to approximately 2800 rpm before the min starts to come in. Change the jets yourself is so simple... S&S website has instructions. Going to a MIK 45 is nonsense.... Remove the air cleaner and float bowl and remove the 2 jets and let us know what's in there. We will also need to know if any other mods have been made to the motor... I'll use nothing but S&S..... Period......
#16
I'm contemplating this same set of carbs.
Currently have a HSR42 on my stock TC88(a) amd it works great but I'm sacing for a 100", heads, and cams. I figure that puts me right in between the 42 & 45. Tuning is a non-issue. Been rebuilding and tuning all kinds of carbs forever but I've never ridden or worked on an S&S.
A few specific questions...
I more concerned about street manners (response) than WOT dyno numbers. Is one better than the other at smaller throttle openings/movements?
Can the Super E be hung from the manifold without support brackets? I prefer a cleaner look and made custom brackets for my Mik.
Does one stick out the side much further than other?
Thanks!
Currently have a HSR42 on my stock TC88(a) amd it works great but I'm sacing for a 100", heads, and cams. I figure that puts me right in between the 42 & 45. Tuning is a non-issue. Been rebuilding and tuning all kinds of carbs forever but I've never ridden or worked on an S&S.
A few specific questions...
I more concerned about street manners (response) than WOT dyno numbers. Is one better than the other at smaller throttle openings/movements?
Can the Super E be hung from the manifold without support brackets? I prefer a cleaner look and made custom brackets for my Mik.
Does one stick out the side much further than other?
Thanks!
#18
#19
#20