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S&S E or Mikuni 45

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  #11  
Old 12-02-2018, 11:04 AM
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If you are comfortable working on it then pull the carb. If not do you have a buddy who is? Last resort is the Indy. I dont think the dealer works on anything older than 2000 but that can vary.
You can also access the jets by leaving the carb on and removing the 4 bowl screws. This will let you see the float too. S&S jetting recommendations is usually dead on. You should have a .028 to .031 for the intermediate and .066 to .074 on the main.
Perhaps finding out what the shop did exactly will tell us a lot,.
 
  #12  
Old 12-07-2018, 04:37 PM
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I was told years ago to not let the bike warm up on the choke. Use the choke to start it up then turn it off and tighten the throttle screw so it holds around 1200 or so a couple minutes. This would keep it running to warm up but wouldn't enrich it too much to foul out the plugs over time.
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
 
  #13  
Old 12-09-2018, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake707
I was told years ago to not let the bike warm up on the choke. Use the choke to start it up then turn it off and tighten the throttle screw so it holds around 1200 or so a couple minutes. This would keep it running to warm up but wouldn't enrich it too much to foul out the plugs over time.
But the jiffy stand idle issue sounds like a float issue to me
There are lots of different types of advice on starting our bikes! I don't leave mine to idle long, simply start it, let it settle, while I get comfortable, then ride off gently, pushing in the choke when it seems right. I have plenty of local roads to ride before I get to any main highway, if I want to use them, so my bike is well and truly warmed up by I get to them.
 
  #14  
Old 12-09-2018, 05:02 AM
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OP
What is your end goal?
Are you trying to fix a problem?
If so like said, fix the jetting
Bolting on another carb is the expnsive way to fix a jet size
Buy the AFR set up and stop guessing.
 
  #15  
Old 12-13-2018, 06:20 AM
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Intermediate jet will bring the bike up to approximately 2800 rpm before the min starts to come in. Change the jets yourself is so simple... S&S website has instructions. Going to a MIK 45 is nonsense.... Remove the air cleaner and float bowl and remove the 2 jets and let us know what's in there. We will also need to know if any other mods have been made to the motor... I'll use nothing but S&S..... Period......
 
  #16  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:23 PM
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I'm contemplating this same set of carbs.

Currently have a HSR42 on my stock TC88(a) amd it works great but I'm sacing for a 100", heads, and cams. I figure that puts me right in between the 42 & 45. Tuning is a non-issue. Been rebuilding and tuning all kinds of carbs forever but I've never ridden or worked on an S&S.

A few specific questions...

I more concerned about street manners (response) than WOT dyno numbers. Is one better than the other at smaller throttle openings/movements?

Can the Super E be hung from the manifold without support brackets? I prefer a cleaner look and made custom brackets for my Mik.

Does one stick out the side much further than other?


Thanks!
 
  #17  
Old 01-11-2019, 06:57 PM
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I will guessing it can be hung out there like an old Kiehn.
You just have to be careful with it.
Street manners? ...IDK
 
  #18  
Old 01-11-2019, 09:22 PM
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I will be getting a master rebuilt kit for it. Like i said its an 1994 FLHTCU with 61000 on it has V&H EXHAUST S&S Carb and up grad ING .. I am thinking of putting an oil cooler and upgrade the cam.
 
  #19  
Old 01-12-2019, 11:35 AM
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This should be an airflow if it attaches. S&S can hang on its own since it bolts up. Hsr42 will need support.
 
  #20  
Old 01-12-2019, 02:02 PM
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You will have problems with intake leaks if you don’t support the carb. I would never consider just letting it hang on it’s own.
 


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