i tore down my 2000 FLSTF to fix a couple issues i was having, I bought some new intake manifold seals from an aftermarket maker (AllBalls racing i think) i installed them and they were still leaking. when i started it back up. I was spraying some cleaner in there and it would idle down and die. I noticed the manifold wasnt exactly centered and thought this was partly my issue. I am lining it up by installing the carb and then tightening the manifold slowly.

So today i went to the dealer and bought new seals because they're cheap. Tonight i installed them the same way, very meticulously. everything very clean with a tiny bit of grease on the seals. install the carb and bracket to line up the manifold and slow tighten the manifold making sure it stays centered.... well once i get the manifold tight it can still pivot up and down, easily. Did the dealer give me the wrong seals? are there different sizes? the after market seals i had were tad thicker. i have the flanges in there correctly with the F flange in the front, flanges are not bent. ideas?

I have read every intake manifold thread on here

I am completely aggravated with this thing.

 

Yes, it can move. Especially with the grease on the seals. Try to avoid having it move, but it can.

Just align everything up as best a possible before tightening the manifold flanges and try to avoid any moving of the manifold. Tightening the bolts evenly, and front to back. It actually sounds like you did it right the first time.

When checking for leaks, make sure your carb is not sucking the carb cleaner in and giving you the false reading of a leaky seal.

Instead of grease, I use this on my seals:

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...lange-sealant/

It is a substitute for "Hylomar". So if you do a little homework on it, you will find more info searching that word. You can get it at autozone, orielly, etc. It's good stuff and has many different uses. Brake clean will take it off your hands when done. It's not a gasket maker, it is a dressing/sealant that never sets up like a silicone does. It stays tacky, sealing minor imperfections, etc. YD

 

a little spit goes a long ways. even jesus cure a blind man from birth. somethings just do not need a lube, better for the surfaces to stick. assy semi-tight, align and then set torque.

 

Intake seals should be dry when assembled, any lube will allow them to squeeze out of shape very easy .

 

Thank you for the replys and info.

I called the Dealer and asked the service dept if it was normal to have movement once it was torqed down and they said yes.

My guess is the reason it doesn't move after a while is the rubber hardens up and the they " seat" in their position.

Thanks for the recommendation on the permatex product as well, i think i will clean these seals up and use some of that against the cylinder head.

I should have this back together next week sometime and will let you all know how I make out.

 

Use it on the seal prior to installing the seal and where the seal seats. It goes on sort of runny like pancake syrup, but thickens up like toothpaste when exposed to air for a few minutes. YD

 

thanks, what I meant was i would apply it to the part of the seal that sits against the head, as I believe that is where most of the leaks come from, but maybe I will apply it to the whole seal like I did the grease. I just dont like how the manifold moves around so easily when the seals are lubed. I watched this video several times and like this guys vids, he seems to be quite knowledgeable, and he lubes the seals a little.

 

Yes, he knows his stuff and his videos are a big help. If you follow his install, you will be in good shape. Grease or flange sealant, I like the non setting flange sealant as it is designed to be a sealant. The manifold won't move around with the flange sealant like it does with grease, but it will allow you to still move it enough to get things properly positioned.

Consider picking up a set of these:

https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku

Any good old fashioned well stocked hardware store will have them. It will make life easier tightening down those bolts. Just pay attention to the size of the flange on the new bolts, some are bigger than others, get them close to the same size as your stock bolts. The size of the actual bolts and thread pitch is listed in the link. Good luck, YD