Classic All 'historic' bikes.

Newbe needs education

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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 08:56 PM
  #1  
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Default Newbe needs education

I want to get a classic Harley, something no newer then 1960. I would like it to be as close to stock as possible, have a tank shifter (just seams cool for some reason), be a v-twin, and be capable of doing short rides. The problem is I have zero knowlege about harley's and even less about classic ones.

I'm a long time motorcycles rider/commuter with an R1 that has 40k on it. Prior to that I put 30k on a CBR600. So why go the Harley route? Mainly because I recently lost my commute, haven't riden the R1 since and have always been fond of old american bikes. So I'd like to trade the R1, throw in a few more $ and pick something up for around $8k.

Where do I start? Can anyone recommend a good book where I can look up different models to get info? Are there models I should stay away from? How do I determine what's a fair price? So far I've been checking prices on ebay.

Was this a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harle...ayphotohosting

Why is this one this one expensive (being pretty dirty and rusty)?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1945-...ayphotohosting

What's the reality (financial and time-wise) of restoring one of these bikes? Is it cheaper to restore or spend more money on a bike in good condition?

Any help would be appreciated.

Kenny




 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 12:07 AM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

skip is the guru on old harleys if he doesnt see this thread, drop him a pm and he'll be able to help you out his login name is pococj. good luck with your search!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 01:46 AM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

The WL was probably a good deal, if the motor & tranny were in the advertised shape. The UL would be my choice as it is an 80 inch motor, while the WL is a 45 inch motor. These are flatheads, or side valve models. Very simple, rugged, pretty reliable, and underpowered. Also they tend to overheat if driven at modern speeds. And the WL models are seriously underpowered at modern highway speeds.

New parts are available through V-Twin, but quality is sometimes suspect. Paughco carries some stuff, too. There are other sources for original parts, but prices vary widely, and are often very high for the good stuff.

As far as restoring vs buying complete, it depends on how deep your wallet is, and how soon you want to ride.

Finding a Knucklehead or Panhead would probably be better than one of the Flatties. OHV design, better parts availability, and more power. Knucks were made from 1936 - 1947, and Pans from 1948 - 1965. You can often find a Knuck or Pan that has been chopped for a pretty reasonable price, especially compared to an original or restoration. If you get a bike with a good motor & tranny, the rest of the bike, including frame & front end, can be pieced together in whatever style you want. I think V-Twin even has a 1948 Panhead kit bike.

Try here for used bikes:

http://www.cycletrader.com/adsearch.html

Also, check out a Walnecks magazine. Usually find 'em at Barnes & Noble, or one of the other big book retailers. They carry ads for old bikes, parts, etc.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

I've owned/ridden a stock 65 FLH since I came home in Xmas of 69. I am currently restoring (for riding, not show) a 49 EL. Everyone has their own bike(s) they like best. That being said, I am partial/biased towards Pans. probalbly one one best books on pans has been done by Greg Field titled "Harley-Davidson Panheads". Good colored pictures and details regarding models equipment and accessories. I think the best overall book as far as identifying knuckles, pans and side vlaves (flatheads) has to be Bruce Palmers "How To Restore Your Harley Davidson". It breaks it down to the nitty-gritty. I am not sure how good it is for a novice tho.

As far as ebay goes, some will pay all for anything if the word "original" is somehow attached to the add. Be careful, sometimes the only thing original might be the cases and everything else is STD, S&S, V-Twin, J&P, Mid West Cycles. I am not suggesting that these aftermarket folks don't put some nice stuff out there (hell, V-Twin makes some stuff that many an untrained eye cannot tell from OEM - that's where Palmers book helps) So ask questions, a lot of questions so that what you see is what you get. You do not want to by a "stock" bike with a 50s vin only to inspect it after the fact and discover the lower case numbers are from the 60s.

Sometimes the "original bike" advertized become worth less because of what should not have been done to it (extra chrome, cadium, parkerizing the wrong parts, painting vs powdercoating). Somtimes grung is worth more because it is truly original. Once you decide on a year and model you have to ask what you intend to do with it - show, ride, bar-hopper, long hauler. Then sit and decide on modifications you are willing to live with (Remember this is your bike and your intrpretation of the Motor Company product).

Having said all that, you have got to have some mechanical knowledge and abilities. You can save serious bank if you can strip it down and put it back together. That does not mean you must be able to grind valves and hone cylinders, save that for a good, a very good mechanic. If you have the mean green to farm out the bike, find a wrench that knows wht hez doing. there are a lot who "claim" to possess all the knowledge needed to make the bike of your dreams. When you give it to them and come back later you find the shop is "ghost" along with your dreams, or the wrench is so burned out he can't tell a flathead from a phillips screwdriver anymore.

Find a good wrench! there are not a lot (in fact there are very few in Nor Cal) of folks that wrench on old pans. I think the Motor Complany discourages their franchises from working on anything older than a couple of years old. At least that is the rumor around here.

If you farm your stuff out, ask/ensure you get back any parts that were replaced. It is one of the easiest ways to make sure those "cam cover bushings" you paid for were replaced. There is no such thing as "I replaced them bro and threw the original ones out because I didn't think you wanted them". Before you send in any parts for repair, strippping, chrome, itemize it, note any numbers (some are common casting numbers, some as 49 fork slider tubers are a one-year only item), and then photo it. Another way to ensure what you sent is what you got back.

The old bikes require maintenance....on a routine basis. It's a fact! I never leave on the 65 without checking things like oil level and tire pressure, chain tension, and a few nuts and bolts that seem to work their way loose every now and then. My 65 has never left me stranded. Been across and back the US. It is not a pretty bike but pop always told me that chrome don't get you home.

The Motor Company has done a very good job, I think, of providing maintenance free bikes. Sales would seem to add to that consensus. Got 2 years to retirement and my wifekeeps bugging me (along with other friendly powers or persuasion) to get a new HD. I know the old bikes are not that
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

Electric start is good
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

Hey there, can you help me out, how would I go about hunting down a 1967 electra glide made on a particular day. Sounds nuts but if I could locate one of the bikes on the day I was born, well..you get the idea. Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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Default RE: Newbe needs education

If this is going to be your first older HD project bike I would look for a Panhead model, great little engine, not too many quirks, aftermarket parts and upgrades are in good abundance.
 
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