Turtle Wax chrome polish, Flitz and Semichrome are the only ones I use.

 

I have not seen that stuff for years. It does work well.
Chemical guys: Light Metal Polish also work well. I keep my chrome bright and shiny with it, and it does not scratch the chrome.

 

Stuff is magic on aluminum! I've polished engine cases to close to chrome shine with this stuff.

 

Diet coke works even better, no stickiness.

 

it's important to understand the science/physics of what happens when chrome oxidizes to advanced stages such as pitted and rust. I would never dry rub even slightly rusted chrome with anything, as the rust can become an abrasive powder you are scrubbing into the undamaged chrome.

Ideally the rust and hardened mineral deposits (seen as white spots) are chemically dissolved using mild acids, such as lemon juice or white vinegar. Liquids roll off chrome so you would need to make a paste with baking soda, salt and lemon juice concentrate (Google for mixes) or soak a rag salt and white vinegar and lay it over the part to soak. The idea is to remove the hard deposits chemically and then coat the chrome (filling in micro scratches and pits) with your choice of polish and protectant. I prefer a ceramic wax, (Turtle Wax Ceramic) as it applies a hard protectant to chrome after polishing.

I've read many forums suggesting use of 0000 grade steel wool, with just as many arguing that steel rusts and that grinding steel powder into the 'pores' of chrome is planting seeds for rust. Arguing that steel wool is strong enough to scrape off whatever you want removed, but soft enough to never scratch the chrome seems counter-intuitive. It's always best to only use the abrasive level you absolutely have to use, and removing whatever chemically is always the least abrasive method, even if that just means cleaning the chrome and with mild detergents and wiping on a good protectant.

I'm a fan of the chrome polish kits with the various polish wheels and bars of compound. These compound bars have varying degree of grit/abrasive to them, and not a polish has grit, even if microscopic. The idea is to get a grit only strong enough to remove the layer of oxidized/damaged chrome, and no more.


You can create an effective and gentle homemade rust remover by mixing citric acid powder with washing soda (sodium carbonate) or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in water. This solution works via chelation and is similar to commercial products like Evapo-rust.
Citric Acid and Soda Rust Remover Solution
This formula, popularized by online DIY communities, makes a powerful, yet less acidic, rust remover that is safer for handling than straight acid.
Ingredients:

• 1 liter of warm water (a little over 4 cups)
• 100 grams of powdered citric acid (6-7 tablespoons)
• 40 grams of washing soda (sodium carbonate) (2.5 tablespoons) OR 63 grams (4 tablespoons)of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
• A squirt of liquid dish soap (acts as a surfactant)

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the citric acid completely in the warm water in a large container.
2. Slowly add the washing soda or baking soda. This will cause a fizzing reaction as carbon dioxide gas is released. Add the powder a little at a time to manage the foam. Stir until all the powder is dissolved.
3. Add a squirt of dish soap and stir the solution thoroughly.
4. Submerge the rusty item in the solution.
5. Soak: The time required will depend on the severity of the rust. Light rust might be gone in a few hours, while heavy rust may require an overnight soak (12-24 hours).
6. Scrub and rinse: Remove the item and scrub off any remaining rust with a brush, scouring pad, or steel wool.
7. Rinse and dry immediately: Wash the part with fresh water and dry it completely to prevent new rust from forming. Oiling the parts afterwards is highly recommended for rust prevention.

Quick Paste Method (for non-submersible items)
For items that cannot be submerged, you can make a paste:

1. Mix equal parts of citric acid powder and baking soda with enough water to form a thick paste.
2. Apply the paste to the rusted area.
3. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes, keeping it damp by spritzing with water if needed.
4. Scrub with a brush, rinse, and dry thoroughly.

Important Note: The resulting solution is effective at removing rust but may also remove paint or other protective finishes if left for extended periods. Always test on an inconspicuous area first. The solution can be safely poured down the drain when you are finished.

You can create an effective and gentle homemade rust remover by mixing citric acid powder with washing soda (sodium carbonate) or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in water. This solution works via chelation and is similar to commercial products like Evapo-rust.
Citric Acid and Soda Rust Remover Solution
This formula, popularized by online DIY communities, makes a powerful, yet less acidic, rust remover that is safer for handling than straight acid.
Ingredients:

• 1 liter of warm water
• 100 grams of powdered citric acid
• 40 grams of washing soda (sodium carbonate) OR 63 grams of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
• A squirt of liquid dish soap (acts as a surfactant)

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the citric acid completely in the warm water in a large container.
2. Slowly add the washing soda or baking soda. This will cause a fizzing reaction as carbon dioxide gas is released. Add the powder a little at a time to manage the foam. Stir until all the powder is dissolved.
3. Add a squirt of dish soap and stir the solution thoroughly.
4. Submerge the rusty item in the solution.
5. Soak: The time required will depend on the severity of the rust. Light rust might be gone in a few hours, while heavy rust may require an overnight soak (12-24 hours).
6. Scrub and rinse: Remove the item and scrub off any remaining rust with a brush, scouring pad, or steel wool.
7. Rinse and dry immediately: Wash the part with fresh water and dry it completely to prevent new rust from forming. Oiling the parts afterwards is highly recommended for rust prevention.

Quick Paste Method (for non-submersible items)
For items that cannot be submerged, you can make a paste:

1. Mix equal parts of citric acid powder and baking soda with enough water to form a thick paste.
2. Apply the paste to the rusted area.
3. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes, keeping it damp by spritzing with water if needed.
4. Scrub with a brush, rinse, and dry thoroughly.

Important Note: The resulting solution is effective at removing rust but may also remove paint or other protective finishes if left for extended periods. Always test on an inconspicuous area first. The solution can be safely poured down the drain when you are finished.

 

My dad used it and when he passed in 2005 I took the can and used what was left. Now I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. It's good but not as good as the Dupont was.

 

I just finished off an old can of that stuff a couple years ago, had it in the shop for many years.

John

 

These wheels weren't pitted and are steel. I used aluminum foil and water only.

 

Copper wool has always been the perfect material for us to refurbish tarnished but not rusted chrome.
If the old grime was baked onto old and ancient silencers millimeters thick, then we use a strong industrial paint stripper, but spread very finely applied with small brushes.
The paint stripper usually dissolved everything; if not, the procedure was repeated...
For parts that had rusted through from the inside out, the dirty work was a waste of effort.
The local electroplating companies refused to accept such parts at all. They would have ruined their valuable electroplating baths.

What could no longer be salvaged was reordered from the Netherlands or the USA. (Paughco was already very well known back then for the excellent quality)
I later spent months rubbing and polishing my second 1979 FLH-80 "Classic"; it was a pure joy to see the formerly unloved motorcycle slowly shine again.
The FLH had only ever been cleaned with steam cleaners, and that's exactly how the motorcycle looked: dirt, grease, and baked-on oil everywhere.

Completely disassembled, overhauled, scraped and polished, months of work until my "Lady" shone again, you all know exactly what that's like...
Today I would use ultrasonic baths for the fiddly small parts, and also fine blasting with non-aggressive blasting materials, which was not available before.
But whatever the case, pure handwork was and always is the best solution against the grime of decades past.

​​​​​​​Mike

 

I use Blue Magic metal polishing mixed with a little gasoline and 0000 fine steel wool and it works awesome.