Hi all,

Well, after last week's long but successful cam install (well I assume it was successful I haven't been able to ride the bike yet and I do have an error code I need to deal with), I decided that this week I'd tackle the front end by installing the Ricor Intiminators along with some new 380mm Traxxion springs, and Roland Sands preload adjusters.

When deciding on these products along with help on the install I used the following threads as my guides. I will say that by reading and taking just a few notes about what other people have done made the work much easier overall. In fact I was able to complete the work including set up, tear down, installation, a couple of spills and then clean up in slightly less than 4.5 hours. So take notes on items such as: Will you be using preload adjusters? If not you may be cutting your spacers multiple times to get the right sag, no adjusters also make getting the top caps back on a little more difficult. What did people measure their oil at from top of tube? Are there people with similar weights to yourself that you can use as a guide for spacer length, but this would also require you checking their spring length and use of adjusters. Many of the early adopters used different spring lengths vs. Traxxion's standard 380mm.

HD Pilots threads are always inspiring and helpful!

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ay-i-hope.html


Another thread, this one links to page 4 where Monster puts it so eloquently, just take the damn front wheel off vs. goofing with marine pumps.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...inators-4.html

Grand daddy of them all. This is the link to page 91 which reminded me to measure oil with intiminators in, springs, washers out, and forks compressed, Very important info that mixed up many!

Also from that thread here is the link to a Google doc that I believe a forum member named Izzy did that lists the set ups of other people, it helped me a ton:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...prings-91.html
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...=sharing#gid=1

So let's get started: first off, after reading and asking questions in the above threads (on the last one use the final few pages to get to other people's set ups).

My set up:
Cut my spacer to 6 inches
Traxxion Springs 380mm .90 weight, this may be too stiff most would recommend the .85 which I may have to go to.
Measure my oil at 125mm from the top
Edited to add: I wanted a slightly softer ride so used Amsoil 5w

Taking off the caliper, front wheel, fender took less than 15 minutes. Remember to not touch your brake lever or else the pads will get pushed out! Also, caliper mounting bolts are metric 10mm socket
Axle spacer cap bolts are also metric but I don't remember the size

Tools needed are mostly standard metric and SAE sockets, hex wrenches, etc.
Will need a larger 15/16" (I believe) socket for front axle bolt
35mm open ended wrench for top cap

Specialty tools I used were:
Motion Pro oil measuring tool
Strap wrench to help tighten the preload adjuster on the fork tubes (did not work particularly well)
Pipe cutter for spacers







After removing the wheel you need to decide if you're going to take the forks out or leave them in and suck the oil out from up top using a marine pump. I opted to save the money on the pump and take them out.

Tips for you. Loosen the top pinch bolt and then the top caps before taking the fork tubes out. Size wrench on most new Dyna's is 35mm. In the case of a Street Bob with stock bars and risers a socket WILL NOT fit so use an open wrench with either tape or a thin towel on the cap so that you don't mar the surface (especially if re-using)

 

So once I loosened the top cap, I undid the lower pinch bolt a bit and slid the fork tubes out. From there I covered the caps with a shop towel, put the bottom of the fork on my shoe, held the slider and started to turn to take off the cap.

Pro tip that came from many others before me but always bears mentioning. Dont stick your face over the tube, when the cap comes off the pressure from the springs pops the cap right off!




turn the fork upside down over a bucket, get the spacer (whopping 11 inches long), washer and spring out. I had to fish the washer out of the bucket. Then I put the forks into another bucket to drain fully (yet another reason to take the forks off vs. using a pump)




While they were draining I cut my stock spacers. I chose my height using the chart from the grand daddy of them all threads and knowing that I would be using preload adjusters so that I could fine tune my sag. I weigh just under 160, so about 170 with gear. Cut my spacers to 6 inches.

 

Great thread so far. I'm gonna stay tuned for updates. Keep up the great work!

-Chris

 

Thanks Chris, I'll try and post the rest a little later tonight.

I have all the specs, and procedure down pat so wanted to list them properly and then edit the thread so that anyone wanting to do it has a one-stop shop including the chart that izzy (I think) put together.I can't remember if you've already done the work or were just looking at your options but if this is the route you decide to go then hopefully this will help you.

 

Great job Robby. It seems a lot scarier then it really is huh. When you put the rsd caps on was there any pressure from the spring? I know I had very little if any with the adjusters backed all the way out. Have you checked your sag?

 

Will subscribe, not many OP's post front end upgrades. I changed my fluid once and added a extra ounce to stiffen things up just a little. more like a firm feel now.

 

Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa!!!! What code? Related to the cam install, I missed it, what was it?

Well now, did the 'ole spring-switcharoo thing eh! And the pre-loader/re-loader thingamabob!
Looking forward to hearing what you think about that. One thing on those though, do every single thing correctly because some people have had leak problems at times.

Your bike needs more things not chrome, other than that, bang up job

 

Sure did! Let's get there now.

So after draining for a while and cutting the spacers I put a little oil on the sides of the intiminators and slid them down the tubes then pushed them down with the new springs. Pull the springs out and started filling with Amsoil 5w. Put a bit in and then started to compress them up and down to get all the air bubbles out. I'd say put about half the bottle in and then pump. Once air was out I put my Motion pro on the tubes ($20 from Amazon well worth it).

I set the height for 125mm and started to suck oil out. Pro tip... Be careful, I pulled to hard, plunger came out and oil spilled everywhere!







So once oil is done Monster recommends putting the forks back in the trees (thus extending them) so that putting in the springs and such is less messy and easier. In this case, once again the short risers of a Street Bob with stock bars dictated that there was not adequate room so I held on to the sliders while extending them and placed in order:

Spring
Washer
Spacer

Then I slid the tube back into the trees. I could not put them all the way up because once again I wouldn't have adequate grip on the adjusters if I had.



With my spacers length, I had the adjusters turned out roughly 7 flats, it took a bit of constant pressure to get them started in the threads. The trick of marking the threads where they meet with each other did not work for me since I had the tubes slightly recessed in the trees. A work glove goes a long way here and once I got the adjusters threaded I slid the forks in the right amount and tightened them up. Again using gloved hands.

Frankly I don't know how those who have done this job without pre-load adjusters did it. I could not imagine having to constantly pop the tube open and re-cut spacers, pushing down, etc!

 

Nice work Rob. Here is my easy way to measure oil depth. Not everyone will have this but this is how I did oil on my sporty. Haven't decided what route to go on Dyna yet.

 

So at this point adjusters and tubes are in, I've got them measured to the right height and now time to torque the pinch bolts. All specs located in the service manual of course. I was worrying that I would strip the pinch bolts as they seemed to require a lot of torque but all worked out. The installed the wheel. Make sure you really pay attention to the service manual here. Once the axle nut is torqued, you have to torque the rear-ward bottom axle first to spec so there is NO GAP at the back part but there is a bit at the front.




Now time to set sag.

Again I wanted a slightly cushier ride so my plan was 33% of total travel which worked out to 1.5 inches unladen. I marked the fork tube with a grease pencil with the front wheel in the air, then placed a couple of zip ties against the fork seal and lowered the bike, removed the jack.

First one is wheel in the air unladen



Next up is bike on the ground with only the weight of the bike



Then I got on the bike picked up my feet and tried to balance for a few seconds. Sag almost bang on! Then adjusted the preload adjusters by about a half turn on each. Perfect!!

Almost but not quite


One turn of the adjusters and we've got ignition




Forgot to put this one in. View from up top before putting pre-load adjuster on.