Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I wondered if the pressure came from any different tensile strength in the different versions and not just thickness?
Is that possible or is it purely thickness as the factor with everything else being the same?
Sure, I imagine the metals used could have slightly different properties. But seems like most of the posts that I have read about the springs refer to the thickness being the primary reason for the different clutch pull efforts. Most people that have ran the SE and Barnett agree that the Barnett has a stiffer pull, so I am hoping that is true...
But you are right, thickness alone is not the whole story, I just thought the thickness measurements might be interesting.
Great thread, THANKS!!! I'm getting ready to do exactly the same thing on my '06 Dyna. I'm out of town on travel, but may have some questions when I actually get the bike apart.
Stych
Love questions, if I don't have the answer somebody else will.
Originally Posted by canadayman
not in to big of hurry if you do want i am interested just let me know and let us all know what you think about clutch springs which one you like best will be upgrading when needed heard good things about se
OK, you will have 1st dibs on my fwds! I will give a ride report for sure, but HD Bobber said the SE clutch spring has a bit of a break in.
Installed the SE clutch spring, and now it is time to examine my compensating sprocket assemble and my clutch hub.
In the pic you should be able to see sprocket retainer and how it has scratching all around the circular area that fits inside the compensating sprocket. The back of the compensating sprocket(shown) has damage on the spokes from contact with the sliding cam. The sliding cam is also scuffed up where it contacts the compensating sprocket. Everywhere there is the red burnt up ATF that indicates a lack of proper oiling(I had already wiped off a bunch of the red crap to see the scratches, etc).
Can anybody guess my next mod??
Another problem area in the primary can be the clutch hub splines. Over time they can start chipping off requiring a new clutch hub. Mine look good, so no worries there yet....
Damn pilot that left bottom looks pretty chewed up! They are very sensitive to the fluid used, but no matter what it's a crap design. Wi check mine once I install my clutch and report what 2,200 miles shows on mine.
....so I take it you will be makin a Baker purchase? Not much, but 10% off for forum members on anything baker.
Damn pilot that left bottom looks pretty chewed up! They are very sensitive to the fluid used, but no matter what it's a crap design. Wi check mine once I install my clutch and report what 2,200 miles shows on mine.
....so I take it you will be makin a Baker purchase? Not much, but 10% off for forum members on anything baker.
Most likely yes, the new 2014 HD comp is still a consideration. I just wanted to make it long enough to feel real comfortable about the Baker. I am going to hate to put my comp back in but with the Baker still in testing... Gotta hold out a bit more.
Got all the fwds pulled off, nothing very difficult except getting 2 wrenchs on the brake rod lock nut and the rear brake push rod. The location is buried behind the Fat Cat but as soon as I broke that lock nut free the brake rod just spins out.
Wide N Low 13 contacted me and mentioned that with the inner primary removed it is a great oppurtunity to clean up the jiffy stand. So got out the proceedure in the SM and with some antiseize I got it done - clean and shiny:
02-05-2015, 12:48 PM
