Adjusted the clutch and clutch cable on the '13 Wide Glide today and got to thinking about how many Dyna owners perhaps don't know how or have never tried to adjust their clutch and clutch cable before. The SM isn't really very clear on the procedure, it's almost a 'feel' to get it right but I've found a few tricks to make it simpler, if you've got a trick or a tweak you use on your clutch and cable post them up, information is what this forum is all about!

If you've never done the actual procedure, the SM calls for a 'light seat' of the clutch pushrod screw. What does that actually mean? Pretty vague, I've found a trick I've used for ages to bypass the SM and get a great clutch adjustment:

Turn out the cable adjuster until the clutch lever rests against the grip. Use an 11/16" offset wrench to loosen the jamnut on the pushrod screw while you hold it with a 7/32" allen wrench. Turn the clutch pushrod adjusting screw counter clockwise to back it out slightly and then turn the center screw clockwise until the clutch lever just starts to move away from the grip; do it a few times to get a feel for where the lever begins to move. Turn the center screw counter clockwise 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn and lock the center adjusting screw jam nut firmly against the pressure plate while holding it with the 7/32" allen.

Adjust clutch cable so you have between 1/16" to 1/8" free play from the clutch cable ferrule to the clutch lever perch. I use a nickel to check the cable freeplay, if a nickel slides between the ferrule and the perch it's perfect.

When you replace the derby follow a star pattern going around 4 or 5 times with the T27 Torx to draw the cover down and not distort it. Also, a 3/8" piece of wood under the jiffy stand will keep all the fluid in the primary and you won't lose any... and do the adjustment with the bike cold.

If you've got a trick or a different technique post it up, I've always loved trying new ideas...

 

I have an 02 and I back off the cable so it's sloppy. I then break the jam nut loose on the basket and unscrew a bit. Now ( with my fingers) I screw in the stud till I feel the contact of the stud and rod to the ramp and all is snug. Now, I back it off that 1/4 turn and lock it down, while holding the stud from turning. Now I go to the cable and adjust until I have about 3/8" play in the lever. I actuate the lever and look to see that the cover is moving correctly and feels right, button everything up and go. So far, I've got 120k miles on all original clutch parts so I guess it works ok. I've found that the key is using my fingers to make that light contact, not a wrench.

 

3/8" play ??? are u sure on that one ,, it seams a little to much play.

mike

 

[QUOTE=jmn1960;14500073]3/8" play ??? are u sure on that one ,, it seams a little to much play.

mike[/QUOTE
Ok, I didn't say it right. I'm talking the 3/8" out at the end of the handle, not from the perch. I basically make sure I have good free play in the handle to guarantee there is no tension on the clutch when fully engaged

 

Any "easy" technique for the 2015 Lowrider? The friction zone is way too early on my GF's.

 

I follow the service manual but have a twist on the meaning of a "light touch" in turning in to touch the clutch. In my time as a machinist when using a micrometer one turns the dial by just brushing it with the thumb and forefinger. That way there is minimal pressure when contact is made.

I don't wait for movement of the clutch inwards as that is too far. Light contact can be made which is all that is required. Then I back off a full turn before locking it down.

I have 19 HD's and do all my own service for years. All will go into N both up and down with ease hot opr cold. No going back and forth to find it.

That method works for me and I'm staying with it. Riding over 30K each year means that I do at least six services which included adjusting the clutch.

 

I definitely agree about the light touch. I grew up in my dad's machine shop.

 

The adjustment of the clutch pushrod screw will determine where the friction zone ends up at the lever. The SM calls for 1/2 to 1 counter clockwise turn of the pushrod screw after light seat, the pushrod screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. A 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from the grip as you release the lever, at 1 turn the clutch engages closer to the grip.

When using the 'light seat' technique I use a near 1 turn out, with the lever lift method that I use on my '13 I use a 1/3 turn out to put the friction zone closer to the grip; I practice slow speed motor officer exercises and the friction zone closer gives me better control. If your friction zone location isn't to your liking the pushrod screw will need to be adjusted.

Either the light seat or the lever lift method is an easy maintenance task to perform. If you've never done it before review post #10 in this thread, it's the SM step by step on clutch/clutch cable adjustment: http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=41858.0

 

Bookmarked, great thread for those of us who have the service manual but sometimes have a hard time interpreting it