Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
You can also see the custom headlight bucket grommet here. The one exposed cable is the throttle. Not much I can do about that one.
OE right side plug for comparison.
The left side plug doesn't seem like a needed part with the factory harness that's like 1-1/2" in diameter but when you pare down the harness to less than half that and move the tank back 1-1/2", the gaping hole in the neck looks terribly unfinished. It would still probably go completely unnoticed 95% of the time but it bugged me. Similar to the exposed adjuster nut that I had to make that special washer to cover up. Sigh. Oh well. It's largely wasted effort, but I enjoy the details.
Not much to share today. Just spent several hours with the DVM and a pen identifying and confirming continuity of all my wiring after the splicing/extensions/pulls/jackassery. Everything looks good.
The DK Customs horn is unexpectedly loud. I'm pleased. Nearly hidden between fron down tubes, but very audible...not that I'll use on it the road after I pass ODOT inspection. Still, I want it so I know when the bike is locked. (Fob function, basically, but Bluetooth-based.)
Got one wire yet to ID before I start terminating.
I also misplaced the connector for the starter solenoid. Dammit. New one (plus terminal) on order.
Here's a shot of the Speedo/Tech with Neutral indicator lit. Why? No real reason other I like shiny things.
Most of the wiring is complete. Nothing worth pictures. I'm not thrilled with the wire route tidyness. I'll probably tweak that later now that I have a better idea of everything.
Checked OK so far:
All idiot lights, gauges, and switches
Headlight high & low
Turn signals L&R, F&R
Brake switches F&R, and lamps
Horn
Keyless locking
Still to check/do (electrical):
Bluetooth setup
M-unit setup
Speedo setup
Starter wiring
Closure panels
Need to fab one closure panel (between rear down tubes, in place of fender) from carbon fiber. Also need to bleed the front brakes again since I changed to a banjo pressure brake switch (like on the rear) after I had already bled them. I was initially planning a reed switch but the pressure switch was so much simpler and nearly as clean.
Hoping to have the starter connector by Friday so I can finish electrical. Tomorrow, probably gonna do some shop cleanup and switch the workspace over to metal fab for the tank.
Had a catastrophic failure a bit ago. Was putting the positive battery lead on the starter and apparently the lug on the solenoid twisted. Welded the nut and terminals in place then the battery melted down.
Totally my fault for not follow the proper procedures (disconnect battery). Expensive mistake.
I can confirm that a Lithium IRON battery (such as Antigravity) does NOT cascade and catch fire. It DOES get hot and vent liquid acid everywhere. Still much safer than a cascade fire from a LiPo.
I can also confirm that the M-Unit survived intact (to the extent of my ability to test thus far.) I hooked it up my DC power supply and all the functions tested earlier tonight still work fine.
Now I have to go looking for starter parts and a new battery. Hopefully the starter motor is OK.
Inside the solenoid housing...weld spatter amd damaged circuit board...
Melted battery case. It bulged and vented at the seam. Had to use cable cutters to get the battery out quickly. I burned my finger pretty good in the process. Combination of chemical and thermal. I deserve the pain.
Sorry to hear, glad you're ok though. Other than the expensive yet repairable damage the bike is looking great. Expensive mistake to have but the good in all of it is that you're good and the damage isn't worse.
09-16-2018, 01:50 AM
