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-   -   From gloss to WRINKLE black?! (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/1116701-from-gloss-to-wrinkle-black.html)

damager1 05-18-2016 12:42 PM

From gloss to WRINKLE black?!
 
Howdy all!

This question is directed at all you paint guys and paint experts out there that may be perusing the forum here... I'm looking to paint my battery and electrical covers WRINKLE BLACK.

I already have the paint (leftover Harley wrinkle black engine paint) and obviously the parts too. I'm looking to see what the best way to paint these parts is... strip / sandblast all paint off first and re-prime? maybe sand down the paint that's already on there and use THAT as a primer? What would you guys do? This should be a pretty easy and self-explanatory job, but I'm obviously looking for best end result and long-term durability as well. Maybe it'd be best to simply have these parts powdercoated a wrinkle black? Although pricey?

What say ye?

CJD197 05-18-2016 12:59 PM

Priming would likely be overkill. If you are able to sand blast, that gives a good base that the paint will stick to. Once painted, if you pop it in the oven for 30 minutes at 250 degrees it really brings out the wrinkles.

Powder coating is more durable. I don't think it's "more durable" enough to warrant the price...but that's just me.

Dyna rider 78 05-18-2016 01:05 PM

When I painted my lower fork tubes and a couple other parts with VHT wrinkle paint i just sandblasted them and wiped them down with paint prep cleaner and sprayed them per the directions. I then baked the parts in the oven for 200 degrees for an hour or more. I didn't prime them. The stuff is almost fool proof if you sand and prep the parts really good.

damager1 05-18-2016 01:53 PM


Originally Posted by Dyna rider 78 (Post 15157977)
When I painted my lower fork tubes and a couple other parts with VHT wrinkle paint i just sandblasted them and wiped them down with paint prep cleaner and sprayed them per the directions. I then baked the parts in the oven for 200 degrees for an hour or more. I didn't prime them. The stuff is almost fool proof if you sand and prep the parts really good.


Ok nice!

When you say "sandblast" do you mean actually bringing them somewhere to be put in a machine and actually sandblasted? or do you mean simply sanding? If you mean sanding, what grit, and how much?

Dyna rider 78 05-18-2016 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by damager1 (Post 15158081)
Ok nice!

When you say "sandblast" do you mean actually bringing them somewhere to be put in a machine and actually sandblasted? or do you mean simply sanding? If you mean sanding, what grit, and how much?

I actually sand blasted them at work. I'm not exactly sure by hand what grit but I would use a 220-400 not more than that. Just enough to scruff the surface finish down. You don't have to go to the bare metal.

damager1 05-18-2016 04:44 PM


Originally Posted by Dyna rider 78 (Post 15158267)
I actually sand blasted them at work. I'm not exactly sure by hand what grit but I would use a 220-400 not more than that. Just enough to scruff the surface finish down. You don't have to go to the bare metal.

ok great info. I'm going to try some Scotch brite red to scour the surface with I think.... I know a lot of ppl that have had success w that for scruffiness purposes. I won't have to prime after that, correct? just lay it on after that?

cggorman 05-18-2016 05:32 PM

I've used three cans of wrinkle. Two VHT and one HD. The VHT gives me better results but has very flat finish. The HD is more difficult to lay down and has more glossy finish. Both wrinkle up nicely if the film thickness is sufficient and a little light heat is applied. 3 heavy coats or 5 moderate coats is what I've been using. The heavy coats tend to sag and winkle unevenly on parts with deep contours and/or sharp edges. Re-coat while still tacky. 5 minutes or so.

I sand blast and wash thoroughly prior paint. I haven't tried on any other material or finish.

The wrinkle works fine over blasted metal, sanded primer, or virgin primer.

CJD197 05-18-2016 06:59 PM

When you mentioned sand blast in the OP, I thought that's what you meant, LOL. Sand blasting is the best metal prep possible for paint to grab to. And yes, it does require a 'blaster" that removes all old paint and etches the surface.

Sanding is next best, but depends on the previous paint to have a good bond. If it is flaky or pitted, your paint over will not last long at all. If you plan to paint, nothing rougher than 220 grit...wet sanded. 400 grit dry.

emerican19 05-18-2016 11:27 PM

Why not just swap a member for stock wrinkle black parts? I know there's plenty out there that want gloss...seems a shame to mess that up.

damager1 05-19-2016 10:30 AM


Originally Posted by emerican19 (Post 15159775)
Why not just swap a member for stock wrinkle black parts? I know there's plenty out there that want gloss...seems a shame to mess that up.

Well actually that's kinna where my head was at with this whole line of questioning. Trying to determine if it's worth it for me to simply do it myself or spend the $ and simply buy the parts, and then hawk my gloss black's. It'd certainly be cheaper to do it myself with my leftover wrinkle engine paint, unless I found the parts SUPER cheap on the Bay or elsewhere.

Gunna check all that out.


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