Did I Kill My Molex Connector?
 

Ok sooooo - just finished wiring in my new Tbar setup and I ended up having to de-pin the molex connectors to get the wires through the new bars. The molex connectors were a total pain to de-pin and probably took two hours poking and prodding and pulling, even though every video ever makes it seem like the easiest thing?

Finally got everything buttoned back up and I go on a test ride. Everything works great until I hit a bump and I get the check engine light and the red light next to the speedo needle. I also notice my turn signals on the front left side are not working.

The left molex connector was definitely harder to de-pin than the right side. When I jiggle the left side connector, the check engine lights go away. I also notice that jiggling the connector made the turn signal light up without the switch being activated?

Do I simply have a loose connection or did I fry the connector? How can I tell? Do you recommend unplugging all and using some dielectric grease? HALP!

I did the same thing on my Wideglide.
Turned out to be that when I put the pins back in the Molex (POS!) I put a couple in backwards and also buggered up one of the tiny little clips which made the connection loose.
I screwed around with it for hours before I decided to just cut the wires and splice them back together.

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for future reference

Molex........

Very simple to remove the wires. (pix follow)

First off you have a hook tool........

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...9a106e2297.jpg
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Insert the hook tool into one of the D shaped holes
and the point will aim at the other Dhole.
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...539694fdb1.jpg
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Above, use the tool to pull up about a quarter inch.
(you are pulling up the secondary lock)
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Now, below I show a little T wrench I made up,
(for the primary lock)
using.032 stainless steel wire.......
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...25ad335dac.jpg
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Now, below, this is where you wanna poke your tool.
Doesn't take much, you don't need to bend anything.
Just push your tool in gently,
and pull it out the back (the wire).
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...3e87d84843.jpg
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All of the high performance fittings that are used these days are marked.

Whether they be AMP, Deutsch, or Molex (pictured below).

..........they are all marked...........................................
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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...300714d25a.jpg
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...6da5e0553a.jpg
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In your sig your bike is a '14. I thought they changed the connector types since then.
Anyway I have an '07 and I've swapped handle bars 3 times and this is the video that helped me. Now it's no big deal to me. Take your time.
He's drawing the picture indicating the number of the hole on the connector which you will see clearly on the example MUD shows in the close up picture, and the color of the wire.

If you put these back together correctly it's possible when pulling the wires through the bars you may have striped some of the casing off. In one of my attempts I accidentally striped a little of the casing on the internal wires causing an intermittent short. I had to disassemble the whole thing and shrink wrap a wire or two. Hope this helps.

I did strip a tiny piece of casing off but wrapped it in tape. Maybe I didn't use enough. I have to swap the risers again this weekend so I'm going to pull everything and reassess. Thanks for the tips!

The new style (tiny) connectors used on both my '15 and '16 are JAE MX series connectors. The 4 position ones used for my switches and signals are MX19's.