Clutch Creeping & Hard Shift / Barnett Extra Plate
#21
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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I suspect they reason why they screwed up was that HD changed the ball ramps from 21 degree to 18 degree in 2005. In doing so the travel on the pressure plate is reduced about 16%.. After that ramp change they had to remove the damping spring to get the clutch to disengage enough. For me when I was using the plus 1 kit, I already was using an 18 degree ramp (05 up) and a easy-boy arm which together reduces the clutch lift by 50%. I knew I had to remove the damping spring for the clutch to disengage.
I removed the damper and seat tonight. I dont have a new gasket for the primary yet but I adjusted that rod by finger and did the cable quickly to feel.... clutch feels different, better. It takes less pull now and I see the diaphragm spring moving more.
For when I actually adjust it to put it together, is it a good idea to hold the clutch lever against the grip when turning in the rod to "feel" it seat? I've seen that on quite a few other threads
#22
That makes sense, just frustrating that they dont have it listed on the website and people are finding out the hard way.
I removed the damper and seat tonight. I dont have a new gasket for the primary yet but I adjusted that rod by finger and did the cable quickly to feel.... clutch feels different, better. It takes less pull now and I see the diaphragm spring moving more.
For when I actually adjust it to put it together, is it a good idea to hold the clutch lever against the grip when turning in the rod to "feel" it seat? I've seen that on quite a few other threads
I removed the damper and seat tonight. I dont have a new gasket for the primary yet but I adjusted that rod by finger and did the cable quickly to feel.... clutch feels different, better. It takes less pull now and I see the diaphragm spring moving more.
For when I actually adjust it to put it together, is it a good idea to hold the clutch lever against the grip when turning in the rod to "feel" it seat? I've seen that on quite a few other threads
Technically if the clutch feels lighter, its more likely that the ***** were not completely seated on your initial adjustment.. The diaphragm springs are constant pressure springs so differences in clutch stack up shouldn't make any difference in lever pressure. I've tried the lever off the grip thing and it seems to work but I pretty much use the zero or slightly tight center adjuster and pump the lever on fresh assemblies where the clutch has been apart. Both ensure that the ***** are seated and the arm that attaches to the cable is in the right position (***** seated all the way in the grooves). On maintenance adjustments I pretty much follow the service manual..
#23
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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I finally had the chance to put it back together and start it up today. Clutch is no longer creeping when pulled in and I can shift from.1st to 2nd easily BUT finding neutral is almost impossible! Clutch begins to engage when the lever is about 1/2" from the handle and it does fully disengage as I can roll it around in gear with clutch pulled in.
Will neutral come easier after I've had it on the dyno (did cam swap as well and need a tune) or should I be adjusting my primary again?
Will neutral come easier after I've had it on the dyno (did cam swap as well and need a tune) or should I be adjusting my primary again?
#24
I finally had the chance to put it back together and start it up today. Clutch is no longer creeping when pulled in and I can shift from.1st to 2nd easily BUT finding neutral is almost impossible! Clutch begins to engage when the lever is about 1/2" from the handle and it does fully disengage as I can roll it around in gear with clutch pulled in.
Will neutral come easier after I've had it on the dyno (did cam swap as well and need a tune) or should I be adjusting my primary again?
Will neutral come easier after I've had it on the dyno (did cam swap as well and need a tune) or should I be adjusting my primary again?
Are you sure you didn't bend anything when it was assembled wrong? If the plates aren't flat the clutch will drag.
#25
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Nothing was bent cause the seat actually fit underneath the narrow friction properly like the stock plate.
I dont think its dragging anymore cause its not creeping and it shifts from 1st to 2nd easily.
Neutral is just impossible to find now! Never had any issues before
#26
Yep +1 without the damper and seat.
Nothing was bent cause the seat actually fit underneath the narrow friction properly like the stock plate.
I dont think its dragging anymore cause its not creeping and it shifts from 1st to 2nd easily.
Neutral is just impossible to find now! Never had any issues before
Nothing was bent cause the seat actually fit underneath the narrow friction properly like the stock plate.
I dont think its dragging anymore cause its not creeping and it shifts from 1st to 2nd easily.
Neutral is just impossible to find now! Never had any issues before
#27
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Max Headflow (12-26-2016)
#28
Hey guys.
I seem to be struggling to understand how to properly adjust the clutch. Ive watched some videos and read lots of threads but what I dont fully understand is where I need to adjust; like the direction.
I installed the Barnett kevlar extra plate kit and HD spring.
I loosened the cable off so there was lots of slack. Loosened jam nut on primary and tightened the rod in (clockwise) until it touched then backed off 3/4 of a turn and tightened the jam nut. Adjusted cable till 1/8" of freeplay. Now when I pop it into gear... its creeping, hard and I have to shut it down to find neutral. If I turn the adjustment on the cable taking away all free play and then some... it'll work but I know that's not right.
So my adjustment on the primary must be wrong... would I need to back it out LESS once touched down to fully disengage the clutch? This is where I'm struggling to understand what to do.
15 FXDF (on mobile so my signature probably wont show up)
I seem to be struggling to understand how to properly adjust the clutch. Ive watched some videos and read lots of threads but what I dont fully understand is where I need to adjust; like the direction.
I installed the Barnett kevlar extra plate kit and HD spring.
I loosened the cable off so there was lots of slack. Loosened jam nut on primary and tightened the rod in (clockwise) until it touched then backed off 3/4 of a turn and tightened the jam nut. Adjusted cable till 1/8" of freeplay. Now when I pop it into gear... its creeping, hard and I have to shut it down to find neutral. If I turn the adjustment on the cable taking away all free play and then some... it'll work but I know that's not right.
So my adjustment on the primary must be wrong... would I need to back it out LESS once touched down to fully disengage the clutch? This is where I'm struggling to understand what to do.
15 FXDF (on mobile so my signature probably wont show up)
#29
Do not reuse spring seat and damper rings
Hey guys.
I seem to be struggling to understand how to properly adjust the clutch. Ive watched some videos and read lots of threads but what I dont fully understand is where I need to adjust; like the direction.
I installed the Barnett kevlar extra plate kit and HD spring.
I loosened the cable off so there was lots of slack. Loosened jam nut on primary and tightened the rod in (clockwise) until it touched then backed off 3/4 of a turn and tightened the jam nut. Adjusted cable till 1/8" of freeplay. Now when I pop it into gear... its creeping, hard and I have to shut it down to find neutral. If I turn the adjustment on the cable taking away all free play and then some... it'll work but I know that's not right.
So my adjustment on the primary must be wrong... would I need to back it out LESS once touched down to fully disengage the clutch? This is where I'm struggling to understand what to do.
15 FXDF (on mobile so my signature probably wont show up)
I seem to be struggling to understand how to properly adjust the clutch. Ive watched some videos and read lots of threads but what I dont fully understand is where I need to adjust; like the direction.
I installed the Barnett kevlar extra plate kit and HD spring.
I loosened the cable off so there was lots of slack. Loosened jam nut on primary and tightened the rod in (clockwise) until it touched then backed off 3/4 of a turn and tightened the jam nut. Adjusted cable till 1/8" of freeplay. Now when I pop it into gear... its creeping, hard and I have to shut it down to find neutral. If I turn the adjustment on the cable taking away all free play and then some... it'll work but I know that's not right.
So my adjustment on the primary must be wrong... would I need to back it out LESS once touched down to fully disengage the clutch? This is where I'm struggling to understand what to do.
15 FXDF (on mobile so my signature probably wont show up)
#30
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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when did you get and install this kit? 10 frictions and 9 metals? if so, the ALL of the stock clutch need to come out, all off it. damper spring and the metal ring at the base. edit: oops i see you got them. good.