Even if you had used new bolts, there is a good chance that that they would have some loose since the wheels were powder coated. If the any of the mating surfaces between the hub, pulley or bolt heads have PC on them they need to be machined back to metal. Failing to do so will allow the bolt to come loose..

You really don't need to check the torque on the bolts simply give them a good tug with a wrench.. I typically check when servicing. If you find them loose, proceed to disassemble and clean, inspect and re-torque with red LT.. If you like to replace the bolts as others recommend, go for it..

On wheels where the bolts snapped, chances are the holes are wallered out and the pulley / hub need replacing.

 

The right bolts will have an threaded section that fits through the pulley and into the hub that acts like a pin. The holes in hubs have the threads inset to allow for the un-threaded part of the bolt. Also the hub is relieved between the holes on most late hubs so location for a pin. You could use hollow dowels on the pulley bolt holes tho.

 

 

Not a bad idea, but you should extend the mark to the pulley too. The bolt and washer could turn as a unit.

 

I have new lock plate from Hardcase

for sale

 

I was checking the size of the pulley bolts in the microfische last night for another reason and noticed they are specified with a lockpatch. That pre-applied locking compound is very likely the reason for the bolt replacement procedure in the servoce manual. I would bet good money that the bolts are perfectly fine for multiple reuse as long as there is fresh threadlocker applied for each use.

 

The witness marks are a good idea. I'll definitely do that going forward.

I should have worded my earlier post better when I said visually. I did check for snugness about 1500 miles ago when I swapped shocks. But I didn't use a torque wrench and certainly didn't back them out to check for loctite.

Im waiting on a thin 36mm wrench as I can't get my socket on the axle nut. The wheel is completely trashed though.

 

I suppose it's way too much to ask that insurance or warranty will cover this not-insignificant damage....

There is probably minor damage to the inside of the swingarm and belt guard, too. Probably just cosmetic, but somewhere fpr rust to take a foothold if not addressed.

Chemical threadlocker is single-use anyway. If you loosen the affected bolt(s) at all, it should be reapplied. Ideally, the threads should also be chased...

 

The problem with the pulley bolts is not that they will back out of the holes, but they have been known to shear off in the holes also. So it is not just a loktite problem.
Do a search for the sheared bolts thread.


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...rear-axle.html

 

Hmm. Didn't realize it was this common.

I'm debating doing a 30t/70t swap or going to a chain drive. Chains don't bother me as I still have a sportbike in the garage.

The belt has some small nicks in it and probably should be changed after this. I'm short on time for wrenching but I figure I should consider a gearing change if I'm re-buying everything.

Unlike most I have a 45 min commute on a 70-80mph hwy in Texas. While the gearing is too tall stock, I'm not sure if a 30/70 will be too much.