If the axle is not adjusted properly (horizontally) - then cinched in the pinch bolts - before the axle bolt (nut) is tightened

It will draw the lowers together (placing them in a bind)

It will throw off the wheel being centered between the lowers

And it will throw off the fender / wheel alignment

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Could be the horizontal axle adjustment is off (prior to the cinch bolts being torqued).., or

It could be the wrong size wheel spacer on the right side (**** happens)


Bottom line - wheel should be centered..., should align with the lowers..., and lowers / tubes should not be placed in any sort of bind (think what fun this last one induces - poor / erratic handling / suspension performance..., premature bushing wear)

If OP had a fork brace - it would make this obvious

He doesn't - and the fender will / does flex

And right now..., the fender is the only static / repeatable baseline measurement available

**** with it -> throw what little repeatable baseline measurement there is - off

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Frames are built in a jig..., wheel need to align for best handling

Suspension parts should not be placed in a self induced bind - of any sort

But what the hell - half *** solutions are easier to attain

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I spent an entire day - diagnosing..., repeating..., then fixing this exact issue

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Re-lacing the wheel is a **** poor band aid - at best.

And I'd bet the bob is off
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Have fun - I'm out

Ghost

 

I took a few minutes and compared your and my bikes; sliders, fender, wheel, OEM tire, left and right wheel spacers, axle, and caliper are exactly the same parts. The only difference is you have ABS, and I'm non-ABS.

Owing to tolerance slack <a compounding of errors when you start ganging parts together> the front end can't be held to tight tolerances <and now you know why there's a CCE fork brace on my bike > so the front fender can't be made to tight tolerances either.

As Ghost_13 is pointing out, it's a wise idea to verify everything is in proper alignment.

Get the bike in the air, loosen the 4 fender mounting bolts, the axle nut, and the axle cap bolts. You don't need to remove anything, just loosen them up. Torque the axle nut to 62 - 67 ft-lbs while you hold the axle with a rod or screwdriver through the hole on the right end of the axle.

Then, torque the rear axle cap bolt to 132 -180 in-lbs; torque the front axle cap bolt to the same torque; the gap at the front of the axle cap is normal.

Finally, move to the fender and begin to draw the 4 mounting bolts in. There's a fair amount of slop in the fender mounting holes so hold the fender in position as you begin to snug up the mounting bolts. 15 - 21 ft-lbs on the front fender mounting bolts.

Then, let's see how everything is squared up...

 

Thanks for all your time and advice. I'm being told all the 2016 wide glides are the same way. The moco said they are built with this offset purposely.

I will try what you and ghost are saying and let you know what I come up with. Thanks.

 

Just so I know how to pronounce it... Is your nick 'Uncles Car Head' or 'Uncle Scar Head'?

 

Uncle scarhead. Kids can be cruel.

 

Yeah. I was known as 'Goat Goop' by a small group for a few years in high school. ...and no, it wasn't because of some sex thing...

 

These kids are my family. It's all good though.cant wait to ride .been raining in south jersey for a week.

 

I feel ya. Seems like it's been raining here for a month solid.

 

 

In the 50s all next week. Rain should have washed away the salt.

Does anyone here have a 2016 fxdwg?