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What pulley bolts?

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  #51  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:14 PM
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What does ther term "waist" mean here?
 
  #52  
Old 06-25-2019, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GREENOHAWK69
What does ther term "waist" mean here?
The area between the head and the threads is smaller in dia. than the major thread dia. ie: 7/16" .437"
 
  #53  
Old 06-26-2019, 10:23 AM
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Bottom line, I think, is that bolts are not supposed to be loaded in shear. They provide clamping force and the friction between the hub and pulley is supposed to transfer the torque. Once they are loaded in shear, or once some of them loose their tension, it's all over...
 
  #54  
Old 04-02-2020, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Stunna16
Bill lock R is not going to fix the problem at hand here.
They definitely don't fix anything

 
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  #55  
Old 04-07-2020, 02:51 AM
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Technically the bolts never backed out........ technically.
 
  #56  
Old 05-19-2020, 11:08 PM
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Well here goes hoping someone still checks this out. Bolt problem,,blag blah so fast forward to solution.
I picked up the arp bolts I found them local for only $8/bolt, washers the thin grade 8 bc more shoulder in the bolt hole,,, the bushings I'm not sure so asking blue bob,,,my pulley is 1.25" my bolts are 2.75" I've found bronze sleeves at 1"x 7/16 i.o. and od of 9/16 and also a cut to length thata 7/16 x 5/8 ....anyway hope you see this bob if not thanks for the info
 
  #57  
Old 05-20-2020, 04:53 AM
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Harley would not have spent extra money on .125 thick washers if they were not needed. The bolt clamps the washer. The washer clamps the pulley
 
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fxr_jp (09-10-2022)
  #58  
Old 05-20-2020, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dynaholic77
Well here goes hoping someone still checks this out. Bolt problem,,blag blah so fast forward to solution.
I picked up the arp bolts I found them local for only $8/bolt, washers the thin grade 8 bc more shoulder in the bolt hole,,, the bushings I'm not sure so asking blue bob,,,my pulley is 1.25" my bolts are 2.75" I've found bronze sleeves at 1"x 7/16 i.o. and od of 9/16 and also a cut to length thata 7/16 x 5/8 ....anyway hope you see this bob if not thanks for the info
Judging by the direction your going you understand that the clamping force between two aluminum surfaces is not designed to handle the forces of accelerating and deaccelerating a 700lb bike. It's the combined action of clamping and the bolts driving just as in an automobile application.

The bores in the pulley are just too big and the driving portion of the bolt (shoulder ) and the exposed threads creats a stress riser situation.

Sleeving as you look to be doing I feel is the proper approach.

The bronze is much harder than the aluminum so good there. Just make sure the wall thickness is not large enough to compromise the pully integrity when you bore the pulley.










 

Last edited by Blue Bob; 05-20-2020 at 08:27 AM.
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  #59  
Old 05-20-2020, 09:47 AM
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It seems that the rear wheel and sprocket should have splines for the high torque application, though would add to the cost in extra machining.
slight subject change, how many miles do some of you have on your belt and rear pulley? am approaching 52k miles, belt looks ok, rear pulley appears some chrome gone in the crotch of the teeth.
 

Last edited by MRFREEZE57; 05-20-2020 at 10:04 AM.
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