Ohlins on a Switchback (FLD 2012) - anyone?
#1
Ohlins on a Switchback (FLD 2012) - anyone?
I am trying to figure out what Ohlins model I need and should get. Even on the Ohlins page itself I am offered compatable ones with different lenghts. How is that even possible for a Dyna? Standard (OEM) shock length seems to be 12 inch, which equals 305mm. Wanting to go with something equal to my RGU's HD 772 with respect to functionalities, I believe I need to go with - for the FLD - HD 762 (S36DR1L). Does anybody have those and can confirm this?
Then again, there is also HD 817 (S36DR1) that are not length-adjustable. I never use that functionality on my RGU's 772 so I'm lactually eaning towards getting something without length adjustment, especially since it would save some money.
How important would you guys consider rebound dampening? It's a bitch do dial in and I end up not even touching it when changing from 1-up to 2-up on my RGU. But the bike is also a lot heavier to begin with, meaning the passenger makes less of a difference in ride handling. I'm wondering if I should even bother for the FLD and go with something cheaper from Ohlins, such as HD 761 (S36D)? How big an effect does rd have on such a "lightweight" bike?
Finally the question about length: the HD 816 (S36DR1L) are longer (335mm which is roughly 12.8"). How do you think this would affect the handling on that bike? Riding is a mix of 1-up and 2-up with passenger weighing around 140 lbs and myself 170 lbs. Clearance isn't exactly great as we know and I have scraped the boards with 2-up but I doubt those .8 of an inch would make a difference? Currently the ride is already "mushy" with the suspension being stock and I wonder if that would get worse when the shocks get longer. Then again, they would be actual shocks and not what the bike currently has... *rantface*.
Any insight much appreciated!
Then again, there is also HD 817 (S36DR1) that are not length-adjustable. I never use that functionality on my RGU's 772 so I'm lactually eaning towards getting something without length adjustment, especially since it would save some money.
How important would you guys consider rebound dampening? It's a bitch do dial in and I end up not even touching it when changing from 1-up to 2-up on my RGU. But the bike is also a lot heavier to begin with, meaning the passenger makes less of a difference in ride handling. I'm wondering if I should even bother for the FLD and go with something cheaper from Ohlins, such as HD 761 (S36D)? How big an effect does rd have on such a "lightweight" bike?
Finally the question about length: the HD 816 (S36DR1L) are longer (335mm which is roughly 12.8"). How do you think this would affect the handling on that bike? Riding is a mix of 1-up and 2-up with passenger weighing around 140 lbs and myself 170 lbs. Clearance isn't exactly great as we know and I have scraped the boards with 2-up but I doubt those .8 of an inch would make a difference? Currently the ride is already "mushy" with the suspension being stock and I wonder if that would get worse when the shocks get longer. Then again, they would be actual shocks and not what the bike currently has... *rantface*.
Any insight much appreciated!
#2
you'll see a vast improvement regardless ifnyou get rebound or not. if you have the cash just spend for it. if not, you will still be happy without the option. I never touch mine after I set it.
as per length, check out the Blacklines.i can't exactly recall the length but I think they are 12.5. they work great. not too low not too high. anything over 12 is plenty for these bikes. it's all about body positionining, i used to race sport bikes. I can take a tight turn on my setup better than a buddy who is rocking 13.5 shocks. if you understand body positioning and physics, you will encounter less clearance issues. the only time i scrape is when I have to do an emergency turn I didn't anticipate .
as per length, check out the Blacklines.i can't exactly recall the length but I think they are 12.5. they work great. not too low not too high. anything over 12 is plenty for these bikes. it's all about body positionining, i used to race sport bikes. I can take a tight turn on my setup better than a buddy who is rocking 13.5 shocks. if you understand body positioning and physics, you will encounter less clearance issues. the only time i scrape is when I have to do an emergency turn I didn't anticipate .
#3
I went with longer shocks solely for the extra travel and boy is it nice on the ol back. I'd always so g o longer than stock but that's just me. As far as dampening and rebound adjustability here's how I look at it. They produce a shock made to meet a market of thousands of people. Not everyone likes the same feeling. They hit a middle ground kinda like trying to cook semi spicy food for everyone, someone will always think it's too hot and one will always say to bland. With that in mind it's a no brainier to get adjustable and set it to YOUR liking. I know for me, I didn't like the middle of the road non adjustable version of my shocks. It was too soft and seemed floaty. Dial it up and voila plush yet firm enough to not change ride andgle crazy from loading up hard in a high speed turn.
In other words, go adjustable lol
In other words, go adjustable lol
#5
I have a Switchback, and while I went with different shocks (Hagon Nitro 13" with adjustable preload and dampening), definitely get some kind of dampening adjustment. I can't see how anyone can build a shock that is going to "nail" it for you. Take someone like Howard. From what I gather, he builds top notch componentry, but if he's building you a shock without some kind of dampening adjustment, he's going to give his best guess based on info you give him. To truly get the best feel from the shock, you have to dial it in for yourself. If you're going to drop $ on a good performing shock, don't you want to get the best out of it? It took me a bit to figure out what I wanted and futzing with the combination of the adjustments, but my bike is now dialed in really nicely. It is ridiculous how short the travel is in the stock shock. The Hagon, Ohlins and most others will increase travel substantially, especially with going 13". Can't recommend a shock replacement enough on this bike. My wife also has a Switchback (our 10 year anniversary present to ourselves!) and recently got her 13" Bitubos with adjustable preload and dampening. Night and day difference for her bike as well.
Bottom line, knowing what I know now, if I had the $ and wanted Ohlins, I'd get the piggyback rez, 13"-13.5" (I'm assuming the piggyback rez allows for more travel, but don't know for sure), preload and some kind of rebound dampening. I'd want a shock built for my weight, maximum travel in the shock and adjustment capability. Good luck!
Bottom line, knowing what I know now, if I had the $ and wanted Ohlins, I'd get the piggyback rez, 13"-13.5" (I'm assuming the piggyback rez allows for more travel, but don't know for sure), preload and some kind of rebound dampening. I'd want a shock built for my weight, maximum travel in the shock and adjustment capability. Good luck!
#6
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