This mechanic said the same thing. "Not worth it".

 

Yeah, they're $1,500. I'll see what the mechanic suggests.

 

If the pin is good the assembly can be trued, then pinned and welded. It will not slip again unless its abused.
Also is the reading TIR or actual run out. I personal would expect the mechanic to show me the testing for a 1500.00 crank. Take him 3 minutes to set your mind at ease that your not being hoodwinked. Especially, after I'm sure you told them several other shops have inspected and charged you.

I have been through a GS1000 crank nightmare. Had the crank trued and welded and shame on me I did not check it. Completely assembled bike, cranked on the first try only to hear the same roar from the bottom end. It took one year to save money, acquire a new unused crank from Yoshimura, had it trued and welded by a pro stock racer in Conyers Ga. I checked every journal this time, .002 TIR

 

This guy only works on Harleys and has for 30 years, and he blew me away with his knowledge. He has a machine shop and can do the work on the existing crank, but I'd rather just put a new one in. He's in another part of town, so didn't go watch him work.

 

How many HD flywheels have you had welded? I've only done one and welds cracked. A GS1000 is not the same as a HD. Yes I've seen Jap bikes welded but they don't run the level of interface fit plus use better steel, Loads are much higher compared to the GS when you factor in surface area of the pin.

 

I have to fault the S&S test -
as a welder, all that was is a surface pass no root involved .
IOW it was not even close to a proper weld, in either test .

 

Sometimes an additional zero behind the decimal point can make ALL the difference

 

I agree. That wasn't a weld...barely a quick wash over. Get a S&S wheel.

 

What is the difference between TIR or actual runout?

 

TIR is the run out of just the flywheel assm. Actual is with the flywheel installed in the case.