FXDX Winter Suspension Project
#21
Yup, my PC shop does a great job masking everything... No concern there. My concern is whether the coating will reduce the needed flexibility of the pinch points. That's what seemed to happen with my shift lever. It seemed the amount of force that would have been required to "close the pinch" and achieve a tight seal would've stripped the threads out of the lever before it was tight... I'm probably being unnecessarily paranoid, but it isn't a problem I want to encounter in the trees...
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F86 (01-14-2019)
#22
A little late on the clamp, I like the wood clamp idea but I'd screw the clamp together clamping say a piece of 1/4 inch thick wood. Use a 1 1/2 forstner bit to drill a hole at the gap.. Fork tubes are 38mm which is real close to 1 1/2 inches. I use a about a 2 x 2 3/4 x 1 rectangular aluminum block (scrap) with one ends bored to 38mm and slotted so that when I clamp the block in the vice, it grabs the tube.
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
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F86 (01-14-2019)
#23
Please re-send
A little late on the clamp, I like the wood clamp idea but I'd screw the clamp together clamping say a piece of 1/4 inch thick wood. Use a 1 1/2 forstner bit to drill a hole at the gap.. Fork tubes are 38mm which is real close to 1 1/2 inches. I use a about a 2 x 2 3/4 x 1 rectangular aluminum block (scrap) with one ends bored to 38mm and slotted so that when I clamp the block in the vice, it grabs the tube.
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
#24
Look @ Sof-jaws
For your next project you can check out this design and make it fit into your vice via the screws already there. It is a replacement of your steel jaws. When I made mine, I selected a thicker depth aluminum stock and milled out the part that interfered with the bottom of the vice. Larger gripping depth for assorted work. With thicker stock you can make the sof-jaws overhang for more room from center of V to vice. You have to remember the table interference when hanging parts off the vice. Look at Racetech PN: TMVJ 065.
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F86 (01-14-2019)
#25
A little late on the clamp, I like the wood clamp idea but I'd screw the clamp together clamping say a piece of 1/4 inch thick wood. Use a 1 1/2 forstner bit to drill a hole at the gap.. Fork tubes are 38mm which is real close to 1 1/2 inches. I use a about a 2 x 2 3/4 x 1 rectangular aluminum block (scrap) with one ends bored to 38mm and slotted so that when I clamp the block in the vice, it grabs the tube.
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
Has Howard invoiced you yet. I ordered some stuff a couple months ago and still haven't seen an invoice/cost?
Howard beat me to the answer on your question... I will say that I've found him to be EXTREMELY responsive by phone! I haven't been invoiced yet, for the simple reason that my order hasn't been placed yet. That will happen as soon as my springs are out for measurements.
Last edited by F86; 01-14-2019 at 12:01 PM.
#26
For your next project you can check out this design and make it fit into your vice via the screws already there. It is a replacement of your steel jaws. When I made mine, I selected a thicker depth aluminum stock and milled out the part that interfered with the bottom of the vice. Larger gripping depth for assorted work. With thicker stock you can make the sof-jaws overhang for more room from center of V to vice. You have to remember the table interference when hanging parts off the vice. Look at Racetech PN: TMVJ 065.
Always learning...
#27
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F86 (01-15-2019)
#28
Do you have clearance?
Last edited by multihdrdr; 01-15-2019 at 09:20 AM.
#29
#30
Here's another tip: before you put the spring in the fork tube, take the fork cap and start it into the tube threads, just. Take a sharpie and mark a line on the fork cap and the fork tube so they line up. When you go to put the fork cap on for final assembly, put the line on the fork cap slightly behind the line on fork tube and press down until you make contact, then turn the fork cap line past the fork tube line until you feel the threads engage; then tighten it up. Clean off the sharpie lines and you're good to go.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; 01-15-2019 at 09:47 AM.