99 wg tc88p ignition advance curve settings
 

so i got my first harley about 6 months ago.. a 99 wideglide and ive discovered it has a these upgrades..

performance aircleaner
screamin eagle cam plate
s&s 510g gear driven cams
adjustable pushrods
short shots w/ baffles (narrow at the head then jump up in dia.)
minuki carb (or something of the sort.. i thought was stock but guess a cv is stock?)
had rekluse clutch but release plate had a crack so replaced with a complete stock basket assembly

and i just got a dynatek performance ignition tc88p on offerup and not sure what the rev limit should be set to. also what kinda hp could be estimated from this set up? might help with setting the advance curve of the new ignition knowing if its near 1hp = 1cu.. basically asking if its close to 88hp.. has 16 different advance curves and 8 rev limits for everything from stock to all out drag racing motors..

ive noticed that when sitting at a light when i go to give it some throttle it will pop a cloud out the carb and die instantly... this has happened even before the ignition upgrade.. also the carb mixture adjustment has little to no effect on the idle..
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I would go back to the original ignition, chase the problems, then worry about upgrading the ignition. Adding variables just makes it much harder to resolve imo.

If you don't want to do that, then check things like intake leak, exhaust leak. Then move on to carb adjustment (fuel/air and idle) for starters.

I did an S&S 510 Gear drive conversion to my 99 FXDL (Camplate, lifters, etc..) and whenever I sat at a light or hot started I had some "choking/coughing" from time to time so I ended up removing the carb (which was mildly jetted CV), gave it a full cleaning, then adjusted the air/fuel and idle until it ran right and no more coughing. It's been great ever since.

In your case, since you also have adjustable pushrods, you may want to readjust those to be sure they're set right as well.

Of course, others on here are far more qualified to give advise than I :icon_drool:

Oh re: HP numbers, you won't know for sure unless you dyno that puppy, but an ex-dyno owner/operator told me the following and I quote:

"Stock your 88 was about 62 hp on my dyno. With intake and pipes about 72, and with those cams, I'd put it at 80 with the right main jet.For reference, a good 96 with pipes and intake is about 80-82 on my dyno. A 103 will make 82-85 with similar combo."

Sounds like you have an intake or vacuum leak. Check the vacuum lines and intake seals. Check the vacuum port on the back of the carb if you have an after market petcock without the diaphragm, it should be capped with a rubber cap. Sometimes they pop off with that backfire thru the carb.
Do you bump the rev limiter a 6000? If not then that's OK there. Dynatek says run the highest number curve in group A where you have no pinging for an engine like yours. So if you're not pinging 36A is good.

doesnt have any vacuum lines and the carb vac port has been capped.. only 1 i can see.. the intake gaskets are new and not leaking but i did notice a little stumble when i shit the buttery shaft with carb cleaner..

do these carbs have seals and bearing like my old vw weber carb or a bronze bushing? or not even that just the shaft in the carb body? guess i need to tear into it and see what i can to fix it..

i did bump the rev limiter to 6000 and seems to run better at 38A.. havent tried 40A feel like that would be too much

The intake vacuum port should go to your voes switch. Make sure it's not leaking. You can down load any info you need from mikuni here: http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html
Should be able to find an exploded view and parts list there too.

If you bump the rev limiter @ 6000, going to 6250 won't hurt a thing. You'll lear where to shift to get the most outta them SS510 cams if your buddy is passing you when you don't shift soon enuf. :icon_moped:

whats voes? i pulled the carb and cleaned it.. found 190main, 48 slow.. a washer under the needle and a tiny little pin hole in the diaphram.. it seems to run better.. deffinatly less carb popping

the mixture screw still has very little effect on the idle.. now i remember with my vw u only open the butterly 3/4 turn from closed to keep from exposing the slow jet circut and idle with the idle circut only.. this carb seems has similar design. the hole the mixture screw sets in is well behind the butterfly and i have to open the butterfly well past the other jet holes to get it to idle.. maybe the carb shaft leaks enough that it needs that extra fuel? and thats over powering the mixture adjustment? sounds possible..