Thanks! I will definitely try that, learned something new. I usually clean the threads out with a dental pick, fingernail, small wire brush, and then wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol.

 

must say I've never had trouble when using 243 (blue) loctite on steel bolts into alloy parent metal. Pretty sure many of the instances where the FSM calls for blue loctite it is steel bolt into Alloy housing.
I would rather use 243 on a small fastener and torque towards the lower side of the given torque range than without loctite and using the higher setting. Loctite actually acts as a bit of a lube when screwing the fastener in

 

That's a good point. If dry torque is specified then once you put any kind of lube on the threads the torque has to be reduced, typically by 30-50% depending on the properties of the lube. Loctite recommends a 20% reduction in torque from a specified dry torque.

 

My rule of thumb is every fastener on my hog gets locktite.

I just put my forks back together this morning. Put locktite on the bolts and torqued em according to the book.

Caliper bolts, Fender Nut Bolt sets, pinch bolts, axle pinch bolts and the axle nut. And the wind deflectors and the windshield mounts and the fork brace.

Bulletproof starts with nothin falls off.





;

 

locktite blue for everything. dont need a bunch, maybe 2 threads. even small bolts. I have never had a problem with blue. Red on the otherhand I never use

never had a problem with aluminum. where steel on aluminum gets scarey is over tighten, remove, over tighten, remove... thats like a tork to yield stud.. going to strech until it fails.