Hello all,

I've come to this site for many years for help. I've got another one. Over the winter I I worked on my 1998 evo wide glide with 120k miles. I had weeping base gaskets, so I redid the top end myself.

The charging system worked perfectly it seemed when i parked it over the winter for the rebuild. During break in miles I've had to put the battery on the charger. It seemed the battery wouldn't keep a charge. The battery and ground wire are new from last spring. I tested at the battery when it was running and it wasn't making more voltage when i raised the rpms. I had the battery tested at NAPA and it was load tested etc and its ok. The Stator running at idle with choke on is making 20 volts+. I then replaced the voltage regulator from harley (the new one doesnt have the extra ground wire). I tested for continuity on 30 amp fuse between regulator wire and wire to battery.. its ok. I checked continuity from battery to fuse and got an ok.

It seems when I did my 50 mile break in oil change, I replaced the long oil filter that pushes against the reg. to stator plug. The new oil filter is a short one. I realised after the oil change is when i lost charge on battery so i got an aftermarket hold down bracket. I took a 50 mile ride and my Battery Tender Voltage tester I have stated at 12.4 volts and when I got back and tested, it's reading 11.9 volts. still not good. it seems theres not a good way to check the pin connection between stator and regulator pins is there?

Any ideas? I also had replaced my coil with a Dynatek coil I've had sitting in the box bought new for years I never got around to replacing.

Just an FYI about the work done over the winter. I replaced base gaskets along with Axtell 85ci big bore pistons and cylanders. Hillside Cycle redid the heads to their stage one. I replaced the module with the Dynatek 2000 (not in the cone, in the fuse panel area). It has an Andrews EV27 cam and so far keeping it under 60mph, it is running INCREDIBLE an all new MUCH torquier smooth running motor. Just a blast. I also have a rear tappet block oil weep to get back into to fix but besides that and not trusting the charging system, it is just running great.

Thanks in advance for any insite on problem.

 

This..?? The Stator running at idle with the choke on is making 20 volts+....Check it unplugged to ground with resistance..Should be no connection.. Across each wire..should be 2-3 ohm ??(checking). Also, check it at 2000 rpm AC across each wire.30 volts AC ?? Checking I am thinking that is low for the AC volts. (looking now..is it 2 wires ..2 phase or 3 wire 3 phase) My guess is 2 wire..

My results at having batteries tested have been 50/50. These low amp batteries are hard to test. However, 2000 RPM should be putting 14.7 or so to the battery. Battery should not drop to below 9.6 when cranking.

 

thanks, I'll get the multimeter out again.

 

I have a manual but it's on line. Never did find the proper ohm resistance and volts it should be at 2000 rpm. It is shown as two wire 2 phase.

 

A battery can be damaged by pumping 20v into it. In fact, if you can get 20v out of any HD system (except livewire,) you're frying something/everything.

 

North, We are talking AC voltage out of alternator stator before going through diodes in voltage regulator..

JD,. I found the time to read the manual. Your 98 EVO should have 0.2-0.4 OHM on the two stator wires. 16-26 volts AC at 1000 to 2000 RPM.

Your system is two phase.

 

There's a sticky on this very subject.
If the stator voltages and continuities check, it's the voltage regulator.
Check the stator output
Running idle, 20 AC volts per every 1000 RPM
.3 OHMs stator wire to stator wire
0 OHMs stator wires to ground
14-15 DC volts at the battery running from the voltage regulator @ 1200 RPM (Harleys don't charge below 1000 RPM)
If any one of the first 3 don't fall into specifications, it's the stator
If the last one is off, it's the voltage regulator.

 

This is incorrect, and missleading. You want zero connectivity from the stator wires to ground, which is infinite Ohms. Zero Ohms would mean the stator is shorted to ground.

 

That's what I meant, it's a matter of interpretation. But technically you are correct. No reading to ground.