Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Recently fitted the Jagged style 15" spoke mounted rotor on my Superglide.
I didn't want the jagged/wave style rotor but there was no other choice.
I noticed, when braking, I get a fine shudder in my front end that I never had before.
At first I thought it was because it's new and I'd give it a chance to bed in. After quite a few Ks though, it's still there.
I checked my head stem bearing adjustment and it was fine.
I rode my mate's Breakout which has a hub mounted 15" rotor kit and there is no such shudder.
On Sunday, while approaching my house, I cut the engine power and coasted for about 150 meters, applied the front brake, and felt a definite pulsation (no, I don't have ABS).
I then had a close look at the design of the rotor hole pattern on the hub mounted rotor; the holes are the usual size and are in a staggered pattern; just like 99.9% of all motorcycle rotors.
The holes on my rotor are very different; there are two sizes (approx 6mm and 10mm) and they are set in a radial pattern.
I have repeatedly tried to contact Arlen Ness Inc about this but I get no customer service.
Very disappointing.
I am convinced that the hole pattern on the wave style rotor is terribly wrong.
Just in case you're wondering, the wave edge does not cause this pulsation; the pads don't contact the waves (it's just for looks).
This is a very common problem with the spoke mounted version of this kit, which is why I haven't purchased it for my FXDL. To my knowledge, nobody has come up with a solution. I think the rotor is not support properly by the long mounting fingers.
This is why I haven't went out and bought one for my FXDL. When they first came out they were not jagged and those didn't cause any problems, if I remember right. A short time later all you could buy were the jagged ones and then the problems started with the spoke mounted ones. I think there other threads or posts on here but I can't find them. Let us know if you find a solution.
I can see how the mounting spoke design may not be stable enough. I doubt the sizes of the cross drilling is the issue, but who knows... I've certainly seen rotors with all sorts of different drilling patterns. Maybe there is no fix, but I would check really carefully that the calipers are as centered on the rotors as possible, and that that the calipers are properly located with the pads centered in the friction band. Don't assume it's a straight bolt-on... It's very common to need some shimming when installing non-stock brakes, in/out, left/right, or both. If there is a design flaw with the rotors, it may be magnified by anything other than perfect caliper alignment.
Just take lots of measurements check that the rotor is flat check that caliper is in good order piston not cocked in bore this is when you can put on the old break rotor see if you have any issue how old are wheel bearing I would use dial indicators right off the bat save some time
This is a very common problem with the spoke mounted version of this kit, which is why I haven't purchased it for my FXDL. To my knowledge, nobody has come up with a solution. I think the rotor is not support properly by the long mounting fingers.
There is nothing wrong with the mounting arrangement. The original disc was mounted exactly the same way.
When I coasted, with the engine turned off, I could definitely feel the pulsations from the cross drilled holes. The frequency of the pulsations was definitely higher than what it would be if the disc was warped.
I can see how the mounting spoke design may not be stable enough. I doubt the sizes of the cross drilling is the issue, but who knows... I've certainly seen rotors with all sorts of different drilling patterns. Maybe there is no fix, but I would check really carefully that the calipers are as centered on the rotors as possible, and that that the calipers are properly located with the pads centered in the friction band. Don't assume it's a straight bolt-on... It's very common to need some shimming when installing non-stock brakes, in/out, left/right, or both. If there is a design flaw with the rotors, it may be magnified by anything other than perfect caliper alignment.
Caliper is fine. Pads are new and fine. There is no reason for any spacers/shims being required; the disc is the same thickness as the original. Only the diameter is bigger. Kit braket just offsets the caliper further rearward to suit the larger diameter.
This is why I haven't went out and bought one for my FXDL. When they first came out they were not jagged and those didn't cause any problems, if I remember right. A short time later all you could buy were the jagged ones and then the problems started with the spoke mounted ones. I think there other threads or posts on here but I can't find them. Let us know if you find a solution.
Yes, you are right; that's the rotor that I actually wanted but it wasn't produced any more. It seems like the manufacturer doesn't want to sell a smart design but rather a stupid design.
Have a look at any other contemporary brake rotors and you will see that the holes are smaller and staggered. I think the manufacturer designed the shape and venting holes for this disc purely for looks and not for function.
I'm really pissed. Had I known that this rotor would cause a shudder when I brake, I wouldn't have ordered it.
06-18-2019, 07:48 AM
Arlen Ness 15" Wave Big Brake Kit - Beware
