5mm LED 12v Voltmeter Battery Level Charge Monitor - £10.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-LED-1....c100005.m1851

I have been through several regulators and alternators over the years, sometimes due to corrosion killing the earth connection and sometimes due to excessive heat, and each time it has left me stranded.

By chance I found this little device, it is an LED and a tiny circuit board that connects across a 12V supply and changes colour according to the state of the voltage (or the current, giving you a warning when stuff is about to crap out on you.

I dismantled it and attached wires between the LED and the board, then took the rev-counter apart, drilled a hole in the face and fitted the LED, tucking the chip away behind the other bits of the rev-counter, Put it all back together and it looks as if it is a factory original.

Of course, nothing electrical has gone wrong since I fitted it, but still, a great £10 spent.

Once again this is a shameless attempt to get my post count up, so the pics will have to come later.

 

I can respect that.

 

Out of curiosity I checked my Dakota Digital MLX-3012 gauge, and it has a volt level display. Quite unexpected, thought I'd post that here, having done a search for "volts".

Not to yank this thread off on a tangent, but the amount of criteria this baby is capable of displaying is shocking, here's a pic for the heck of it.

 

Has anyone attempted their own quick release mod? I'm thinking about using these items to make one. I currently have Viking bags with the metal bar mounts. Any opinions? Ideas? Thanks.

 

[QUOTE=Shadowjag;18388916]Has anyone attempted their own quick release mod? I'm thinking about using these items to make one. I currently have Viking bags with the metal bar mounts. Any opinions? Ideas? Thanks.

https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/6...na-saddle-bags

I plan on making some mounts like this, making use of an extended/hidden fend bolt.



[/QUOTE

 

Wouldn't say its a how to, but it is way under $50. I used dirt bike spoke covers to see how my bike would look with black spokes. You get a huge pack for like $5 or less on eBay. They slip right on, don't effect the operation and a good way to show you different colors for your spokes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36x-Motorcy...rQOD3qTStIBlZQ

 

[QUOTE=Chris Golding;18444230]I wonder if you could drill the hole in the saddlebags larger, and use a rubber grommet in them, with something like the quick release docking hardware with strong clips or C-clips or the quick release pieces (like these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable-...A/283543067964) mounted on the inside of the bags to latch onto them, to make them easy on, easy off, but still lockable? My LeatherLyke bags mount a similar way.

 

Was thinking about doing the same thing. Do you have any before and after pics?

 

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here's how I service the front forks............
....also answered in posting #1169

Probably takes about an hour and a half, taking your time.

First off, lift the machine.

Not strapped down yet in the picture below.
I always strap to the lift if removing a lot of weight from one end.
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below.......

this is 006 FXDI with 006 FXDWG fork pipes

cover painted parts that are anywhere close...

remove the caliper.......... 10 mm 12 point..

tie it up out of the way with a piece of wire

remove the fender............ 1/2" box end wrench and 1/4" allen

lay all the fasteners etc in a tray, in the order of removal.
(clean them good before reassembly)

remove axle nut.......... 3/4" socket.

loosen the axle cap........ 30 torx..

grab the tire/wheel at the top, and pull the axle out..
it will slide right out, cause you used anti seize last time it was apart..

loosen pinch bolts.......... 45 torx.
here, you are holding the fork pipe so gravity doesn't eject it onto your toe.
ease the assembly out, carefully, not to scar anything........
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now, I am gonna remove the cap from the fork assembly,
and drain off the old fork oil into a bucket.
This can get ugly if you are not careful.
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I built my Cap Removal device using an old 5 gallon bucket and a Spud Wrench.
(use a new or clean bucket if you want to save the oil)
This device allows you to control the spring loaded cap release/launch
and capture the fluids in one nice clean operation.

Leave it there to drain off for 10-15 minutes or about two cold drinks.
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After the drain off,

remove and clean the spring collar/spacer, washer, and spring.

now, clamp into the handy/cheap fork clamp/vise.

I clamp a board to the bench, then use two tie straps in a X pattern.

First I clamp the lower,
fully compress the fork,
pour in about 26 oz of fluid to start
(no spring, washer, collar yet).
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below, backside of the fork clamp/vise........
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below is my Oil Level DipStick.
for my 006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm, measured down from the top of the pipe.

If you prefer the HD Gauge, I believe you can pick it up for around 60 bux....
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stroke the assembly slowly from fully collapsed to fully extended,
look in with a flashlight and you will see the air evacuation.
takes about 8-10 slow strokes...

now hang the DipStick on and measure the level
006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm (approx 29 oz)
all other 006 Dyna pipes, level is 112 mm (approx 26 oz)

Absolute precision on that measurement
is not as critical as getting each of the pipe levels equal.
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When the Oil Level is correct,
unclamp the assembly, reclamp on the upper, and fully extend the forks.


(factory spring goes in with the tight winds down)

then the Washer goes in, then the collar/spacer.....
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During the disassembly, I lay out all the parts in order.
Clean them up good for reassembly.
I use a light film of Anti Seize on the axle........
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With the stock length collar/spacer, it is tough to screw on the cap.

Take care and carefully ratchet the fine threaded 1 3/8" cap on while still in the strap clamp/vise.
(final torque value for the caps is 16-43 ft lbs......
I do this after the pipes are in the trees.....
pinch bolts go down to 30-35 ft lbs).

I get up on my little dance floor so I can power the cap down with better control.
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...........do not fork up the threads..........
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reinstall the fork pipe assemblies into the trees, etc. and you are done...........
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reposted from #1833 - 04 02 2012.
replacing missing images
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bumpin another one of mine from 01 30 2008.

a large number of images disappeared from this thread when the image hosters went pay to play.

I am slowly reposting my images from my archives.

anyone needs help reposting, let me know.
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Here's a good tank beatin for ya. the violence occurred in December 2006

First picture below, I have welded quarter inch round stock
to each side of the tank to lock in the perimeter shape.

Then I drew a line where the deepest part will be when finished.

In the red outline is the tool I fabricated for the beating.
About six inches long by one and a half by two inches.
Shaped at the end as you see on the left.

The orange clamps are holding the tank fixture
to the table to eliminate moving all over the place.

Started beating along the green line, little by little,
working outward as the depression gets deeper.
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Next, below, beaten all the way in.

Also you see the rib I welded down the center of the tank,
with the nut welded for the shortened console attachment.
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Shown below, the fuel injected machines fuel pump
is only one and a quarter inch away from the tank side.

So before I started beating, the original tank profile
is cut into a wooden template for gauging depth of the new cavity.
The gauge mounts to the tank holding fixture the same on both sides.
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I used a filler called All Metal, similar to Bondo,
it is an aluminum powder type formulation.
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.............below, the tank as of Oct 22, 2009.
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below is feb 2007.......
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